HighlandRover

Will I come across any issues regarding ecu and gearbox if I use the 3.9 gearbox (4hp22) with the 4.6 engine (gems ecu)?

Yeh opposite side, only realised that lying under the p38 looking at both cars! Just an engine swap it is then. Thanks for the reply!

Hi, Im currently in the process of changing my 3.9 v8 auto out of a range rover classic with a 4.6 v8 auto out of a p38. My question is will the transfer box of the 3.9 fit on the 4.6? Cheers Jason

possibly military prop? It uses larger 82mm UJ's

Can anybody tell me whether or not there are newer and older version of the landrover double cardan front propshaft. I have a feeling that I may have an older version as the new centre bearing that I was going to install will not fit. Cheers Jason

Im currently wiring up my 3.9 v8 from a Range Rover classic into my Whitbread truck. Ive fitted the engine loom but don't fancy using the main harness as its too cluttered and pretty much all of it is useless to me ie windows heaters etc. Im looking to run the engine with as few wires as possible, does anybody have any info or diagrams on how to do this? Any help would be appreciated! Cheers

Which would then leave me an open end from the inlet manifold, just tie this into the main hot water return to radiator?

Thanks for everyones replies. I've got in touch with www.thinkauto.com (cheers for that Zardos) who are sending me some JIC fittings which should do the job. My only issue now is the cold return from the plenum to radiator as described above.

Im currently in the process of mounting my radiator and transmission in the rear of my 3.9 v8 truck. As I have to extend the hoses to the rear of the vehicle I can no longer use the original hoses and fittings. Ive been down to the local hydraulic fittings and hose place and they cannot help me. Im looking for info on where I can get the fittings for 1. Input and output to oil filter housing 2. Input and output to ZF4 HP22 auto gearbox 3. Fittings for transmission cooler (I think its 1" BSP fittings) Also im using a Mitsubishi Delicia 2.8 aluminium radiator and it does not have an input for the cold water return from the plenum to radiator. Am I able to just plumb this into the main hot water return to radiator? Any help would be great Cheers

Hey could some wise person tell me whether or not I can use the fuel pump from a 3.9 in my 4.6? Or is it the wrong pressures/ connections? Also I'm struggling to source the feed and return lines from the tank as mine have corroded, any suggestions? Cheers in advance!

It was just the engine that was done according to the documents. Paint on the tailgate is bubbling and the battery is being drained over a couple of days. The guy has offered it to me for £1000 I'm thinking that it must be worth more than that? I think secretly I only really want it to put the engine into my whitbread buggy!

I'm possibly looking at buying a friends 1998 50th anniversary limited edition 4.6 p38 vogue 50. Apparently there were only 100 made and this one is number 43. It's in good condition with service history up untill 2008 and lots of receipts after that. It has 160,000 miles on the clock but has had a new engine fitted by landrover around about 60,000 miles ago. It also has an LPG system fitted and upgraded liners fitted to the block by je engineering. Before I buy it does anybody know the value of this and is it desirable with it been the limited edition version? Jason

Can anybody tell me the length of part number ANR6920. It's the M16 bolt for the rear radius arm to chassis mount on a Discovery 2? Jason

Thanks gents, I will see what I've got lying around the yard at work!

Your probably right! Would appreciate any info, cheers!

Can somebody tell me what thickness of aluminium sheet I should be using for the bulkhead on my whitbread challenge buggy build? Regards Jason

Hi, did you ever solve the problem as I seem to be having the same issues! Cheers Jason

Cheers for the replies gents. 10 points to Bowie69, one of the ujs in the front prop is smoked. I'll swap with a new one in the morn!

I thought that aswell but it doesn't make a noise when idling or when the engine is reved in neutral. The only time it makes a noise is when moving and you take ur foot off the accelerator. It's a deeper sound than a squeaky belt aswell

I have a 2000 Discovery 2 td5 with 130,000 miles on the clock. Recently when ever I take my foot off the accelerator a strange rattle/ chirping noise comes from the front of the vehicle. I've not yet investigated the problem as its cold and dark after work. I'm pretty sure it's not the exhaust. I know it's a pretty vague description but I'm hoping somebody will recognise this problem and have an idea where to start looking when I look into it this weekend. Highlandrover

I had a look at the connections today but they seem fine. The fault is intermitent as the lights work fine one day then dont the next. Possible switch fault?

Evening all Jumped in my 2000 discovery 2 td5 this evening to find that only the sidelights were working. When I selected dipped and full beam there was still only the sidelights working. On dipped and full beam the full beam icon is illuminated. Checked the fuses and they seem fine. So before I go diving into the electrics just wondering if anybody has come across or heard of this fault before? Give me back my 300tdi anytime! Cheers Jason

A wee update, I fitted the new hub and brake pads today with no problems. The car now drives with no vibrations what so ever Only problem now is that the three warning lights are still illuminated TC,Hill descent and ABS. Ive being reading up on this, some sites say that if the problem has been resolved then the lights will turn off after driving at 10mph or more for ten seconds. Ive also read that the faults need to be read and cleared of the ECU. Im going to head down to the local Landy garage in the morn to see if they can stick the fault reader on and see what the issue is? Jason

Cheers for the info guys. Ive purchased a new hub and the truck is sitting in the barn on axle stands awaiting the new hub. Martin K - Ive read that write up already, it explains the job perfectly. Unfortunately the bank balance will only allow for the single hub change at the moment. Going with the "If it aint broke don't fix it" mentallity right now

Evening, Whislt on a journey today the Hill descent, Traction Control and ABS warning lights came on aslo known as the "Three Amigos". I stopped to check for any visible damage to the sensor cables or anything like that so carried on. Around 20 miles later a knocking sound could be heard from the drivers front wheel so I automatically thought Hub Bearing which I have read is a common problem on D2's. I continued until the knocking noise turned into the brakes rubbing excessively, started to pull to the right and vibrate quite violently. I pulled over to find the the whole front hub assembly was absolutely roasting and was smoking. I removed the front wheel and there was a small amount of play in the hub (which would be greatly exagerated with 35" tyres attached to it) and the CV joint was knocking slightly (Ashcroft CV Joint). Ive read that the bearing is non servicable so a whole new Hub assembly needs to be purchased, Ive seen a Hub and sensor assembly for around £180 on foundry 4x4 http://www.foundry4x4.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=TAY100060&cat=3 but may go down the genuine Land Rover part road for bit more. Whats peoples thoughts on the cause of the fault and recomended suppliers of hubs or should I just bite the bullet and go Genuine? The joys of a Land rover ay? Cheers Jason