cjmt
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Posts posted by cjmt
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Good luck! The most traumatic part of a Disco owners year for certain..
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Thank you! The welder has paid for itself already I think!
Charlie
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Or the alcoholic soldier with a shattered mind
Who takes the suicide option for some peace to find.
Well, that’s my victory but no one knows
For its deep in my mind where nobody goes.
We will remember them, and we must. We also must remember those who have come back from all the corners of the world we have fought in who might not bear a mark but who will never be able to escape the memories they came back with.
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Mine will need to be done at some point as well. I'm told YRM will make them up on request, though they arent listed on their website. They also have repair panels for the boot floor sides. The stuff I have had fro them has been good and saved me a lot of time.
http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/discovery-9-c.asp
HTH
Charlie
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Take a look at the tab on the top of the page marked Funding.
There is a paypal link in there.
John
Many thanks. As ever I'm blind!
Charlie
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Hi All,
To whom do we send money to via paypal? I'm sure there was a sticky a little while ago, but I cant see it anywhere. Perhaps I;m being blind...
Many thanks,
Charlie
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Just a brief post to say the Disco has just passed its MOT with no rust related comments after the welding Ive done. Thank you to all for your advice and encouragment.
To those in the future who might be wondering if you can sort out sills/boot floor/etc your self, if I can you can, it just takes some time.
Thanks all,
Charlie
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Then you can have Stihl or Husky discussions!
Of course, and play with 16 ton log splitters, which are very, very satisfying
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<snip>
Its the same with everything in life though. We now have gas boilers with electronic timers rather than a big open fire and a pot of water hanging over it, its more complicated, more expensive, more to go wrong, but its worth it!
Or you could have a big log burner that provides reliable hot water and heat and costs very little to heat the house for the year, but creates quite a lot of work and requires tools and storage to achieve. Sounds like the correct Landrover metaphor..
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LPG???
An LPG conversion can pay back very quickly (< 1 year) on a V8 doing even a moderate number of miles, might well be worth thinking about. You say you have a budget of £3000, given the fuel economy of the vehicles your considering isnt great it would take a very very long time before you spent that much running the V8, even (especially) if you spent £1500 on an LPG conversion. I have a spreadsheet somewhere I think that dos th maths if that helps.
I say this as a TDi owner and a tight ex small company car fleet manager rather than a V8 enthusiast
Charlie
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I am by no means an expert, quite the contrary but my thought process would be -
Does it bleed with the old line on, if its intact?
It its not intact do you get fluid from it if you attach it anyway?
If either of the above gives you fluid is the new pipe seating correctly at the reservoir end?
If your sure it is does it have an obstruction in it somewhere?? Are the fittings attached correctly??
The experts will no doubt have better and probably contradictory advice, but might help in their abcense
Good luck!
Charlie
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Hi All,
As a linux user I cant get Microcat to work, so would appreciate some help!
Does anyone know the part no for the twist to lock bulb holder for the rear bumper lights? I need one to replace the current corroded one and paddocks/craddocks/rimnmers dont have anything I can find.
Many thanks,
Charlie
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They are really useful at trapping mud, crud and water and rotting your new sills
Motor looks better without too - a visual lift
Mine were removed within 10mins of ownership....
Exactly what I though too...
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Here's a daft question!
Have you got any front mudguards? Mine are missing.
I suspect the plastic trim + mudguards were originally meant to keep the paint on the sills. As you can see, I too, have bought the T-Shirt on Door sills.
I've put my trim back on... But I've used some serious paint on the Sills... "POR-15" expensive but tough as old boots.
My car passed it's MOT 2 months before the 1st 2 pics were taken. So much for "a safety check."
Good Lord! It makes you wonder why we bother fixing things if they'll be passed in that state! I should have ignored mine and not pocked holes in the bottom!
Re mud flaps, I havent any front or back, I assume they rotted of with the previous owner. I was wondering about them for the sills. Perhaps I should get some. I have given mine several coats of hammerite and lots of underseal, hopefully that should keep it in good order for a bit.
The vote seems to be no sills, suits me!
Charlie
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AFAIK they just keep the MoT man from seeing how rotten our sills are
- since you are replacing yours then no need. Unless you like the look of them?LOL, very true. Would also stop them looking at my dodgy welding
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Hi all,
Just replaced one of the outer sills and have the other one to go. I dont really want to drill holes in my repaired sills if I dont have to given the holes in the original seem to be a prime cause of the holes I found. Does the sill trim actually do anything useful or can it just be left off???
Thanks all,
Charlie
(MOT due in t- 18 days....)
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Right, inner arch and associated areas is done/bodged! My awful welding prevents photos at the moment, but I have done the wheel arch more or less to my satisfaction and I think it should last a while. I've bodged other areas enough to be water tight, safe for the canine occupants and to get me to better weather next year. I think that it'll actually last quite a bit longer if the whole area isnt permamently covered in damp mud/foam as it has been up to know. As an added bonus the side of the car doesnt wobble when you shut the rear passenger door now...
One thing I have discovered, welding upside down is HARD!!
On to passenger outer wheel arch then both sills now! Thanks to all for words or advice and encouragment
Charlie
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Might rust around the Alpine window be the culprit??
Charlie
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Good tip Les. Forgive the probably stupid question - where did you gt the strips from??
Charlie
I don't knoiw to be honest. I've always used pre-formed strips to repair that bit. You can buy preformed strips in a variety of sizes (1/2" x 2" for example). Use 2 - pices to remake the profile of the rear floor-to-door seal edge. The only thing you will lose is the raised parts that the plastic rear strip attaches to, but suitable self-tappers will take care of that. Pre-formed strips are only about £4 for a 1.5 metre length.
Les.
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Thankfully I dont have any neighbours and I have a small yard at home! However SWMBO looked at me a bit funnily when she out out how much I just spent on a welder!
I had a Fourtrak a few cars ago and loved it, but it was rusting round the arches by the time it was 7 or 8. As much of a pain as Discos are, at least you can get parts for them. I defy you to find an outer sill for a Fourtrak for £26!
To be honest - I wouldn't look too carefully at anything on a 1996 Disco. You should consider the money drain, the missus taking revenge when you are asleep
, annoying the neighbours, Complaints from the local council gestapo about the scrap business on your front lawn, total financial ruin, etc, etc. Buy a jap 4x4 - they last forever Les.
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Thanks all. I'm going to by a replacement side panel to use for the left if I need to, think it will be a better job and a time saver if its as rotten as I suspect.
Is the slim panel behind the boot floor that the trim/carpet strip secures to available anywhere pre made??
Many thanks,
Charlie
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Thanks guys. A bit more concerned now, but thats probably for the best!
I'll have to assess properly when its stripped out. I suspect its going to be a make it safe and do the whole lot in the summer job
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Hi All,
I'm getting ready to start welding and would value opinions.
I have a 1996 Discovery, 1 month left to the dreaded MOT and quite a lot of holes. Some people have been kind enough to advise me re the sills already. Job 1 however is the rear passeneger wheel arch and sides of the boot floor. The boot floor looks OKish and hasnt really detriorated since I bought it a year ago. However the passeneger arch is totally rotten and will need lots of patch - fine, I can probably do that. If I'd known more about Discoveries propensity to rust I would have looked a little further than the boot floor..
My questions are about the small panel/ mounting strip to the rear of the boot floor itself and the flat panel behind the wheel arch and next to the boot floor. I dont want to take the boot floor out if I can, time is very pressing and the budget is tight (seems pointless not to replace it if I have to take it out). I think the boot floor will last another winter so it can be done next year, but can I fit replacement panels behind the boot floor and to its left without taking it out?? Obviously some spot welds would have to be drilled out and then welded back, but will I be able to slide the lip of the new panel underneath if thats all I do. I wonder if I should just bodge it now so its safe then take the lot out and do it properly in the summer next year???
Advice much appreciated! I have no metal fabrication experience, but I'm a saddler by trade, so I fabricate in leather all day every day and I need to get the car sorted so have no choice but to learn.
One last question. Is this a diesel tank out job???
Many thanks,
Charlie
Snapped 200tdi Timing belt
in International Forum
Posted
As a matter of interest how does all of the above apply to the 300 Tdi? Is the contsruction and damage from a snapped belt them same with the 300??
Charlie