mick the digger!
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Posts posted by mick the digger!
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Can you still not use a cheap wireless remote to trigger a relay which in turn energised the coil on the solenoid valve or am I missing something?
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I had a l322 for nearly 5 years and used a faultmate fcr
https://blackbox-solutions.com/products.html
Worked great and done everything I wanted from it as a code reader.
I've also used a snapon modius to re calibrate the air suspension and although is a fantastic bit of kit it's not something to just leave in the glove box 'just in case'.
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I always just use standard tinners, I'm assuming if tinned with white spirt it would take longer to go of as it doesn't evaporate as fast as tinners?
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Another vote for rustoleum combicolour I've sprayed all sorts with it, even rollered it onto garage in a camper with hardboard covered walls got a great finish on it with a roller and it's hard wearing an easy to wipe clean.
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I'd have a interest in a kit, please keep me informed.
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I've delt with them a bit over the last few years, always found them ok untill the last time.
Had a part they supplied fail 4 months later, rang them to find out about a warrenty claim, and I was told I'd have to return the old one fair enough.
But as I didn't want the vehicle off the road to return the old one and wait for it be sent back to there supplier for a warrenty claim I asked could they send out a replacement straight away, I was told the best thing to do was to order one on line, fair enough I thought...
But when I asked would it be sent out straight away I was told there were 400 orders in front of me and would take 'a few days to be dispatched'
When I pointed out to the gentleman that as this was a replacement part for one they had supplied that has failed in four months could they not send it out any quicker...
His response was 'there is nothing I can do about it'
Very disappointed as it then took over a week to arrive.
To the OP i very much believe if you can't contact a company before you give them money, what chance have you after you have if you have an issue.
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Why not just score it with a grinder and give it a crack of a hammer and chisel or have I missed something?
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The fuel pump you need from either a om603 turbo or om606 non turbo both these pumps are mechanical.
Just to point out for anyone looking for a pump the 606 non turbo only has a mechanical pump in a w124 and these are quite rare having only been produced from 93 to 95 and are also the most desirable pump rs 203 having a bigger camshaft and bearings.
All w210 from 95 on (twin headlight model) non turbo or turbo are ecu controlled.
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Another vote for a 606, they are light .. And when the edc pump is swaped for a pump form its earlier version the 603 it's mechanical.
To make 200bhp it will need the elements from the orginal pump swapping and anything much more and it will need a bigger turbo as the orginal is very small buts they are great low down because of this.
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Are these all auto ?
I can't see any manuals on auto trader or eBay,
I guess the auto would be electronic and will add a lot of complexity,
The manual would be much easier but it may be too long for a 90 if run divorced / remote,
Dave
Only the early non turbo cars got a manual option with 606.
Lots of options too run the 722.6 electrionic auto box stand alone as there also used in gm Chrysler vehicles on the US.
I bought a stand alone plug and play ecu to run one in a G Wagen from a guy in Denmark for around €500 new, very similar too compushift.
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Not sure about your exact model of valve, but generally solenoid just bolts onto the back of a valve block, it MAY be cheaper to fit a cetop, but then you will loose your manual control.
What's it for, and more importantly what's you flow rate?
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From what I can see from google images they don't have the lip like on the 500220, looking forward to pictures to clarify.
Also the 500220 has a 16mm bolt hole.
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Sorry, wrote the part number down wrong, the bushes/knuckles part number of the ones I got were RHF500130.
Is that a RR sport balljoint? Can you post a picture of them? Who did you get them from and what cost?
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[img=http://www.famousfour.co.uk/images/parts/ff005666.jpg]
Will MkIII have same problem as MkI?(centre tube not rotating)
Will MkII Polybush be OK fot one link?
MkIII uses a clip or similar at oposite side of lip?
No as there a balljoint the centre is free to rotate.
Yes a polybush would be fine for a one link....but in my view a ball joint is better.
Yes on the back of a l322 or 5 series there is a cir clip on the other side as it will see side loads in this configuration.
I machined the lip of mine and just pressed them in to a sleeve ther will only really ever see compression or tension in a link never really side loads.
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After seeing the pics of those I've been out and bought some, I got some RBK500130 or RBK000130 they measure 54mm O/D, 16mm I/D 75mm total width and 31.5 mm centre width. 3 link in progress
Ash a rbk500130 is a freelander front bottom Ball joint, different thing alltoghether.
75 mm wide isn't a rbk500220 but the rest of your measurements are.
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Im hopeing to stay fairly light.
Any input on mounting angles, I've read there supposed to act like rams and try to tip a car over if there mounted vertically. In 5-10 deg at the top and layed back 10-15 on the fronts seems to stick in my mind.
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Great to see it coming along!!
Ill be watching with interest how you get on with the air shocks as I'd say ill go that way with a new build.
Incidentally how much are 2.0's from Milner in 14" flavour?
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I think the differences are that one has a lager through bolt than the other, I cannot remember whether the bush od's are the same though. I used one of these on the chassis end of my lower link on my gwagon, it was a genuine one, and seemd to cope fine.
This is the upper ball joint....as there not actually bushes
part no RHF000260
this takes a m14 bolt, its 52.5 wide and the OD is 45.4.....perfect for panhard rods and one links
this is the lower
part no RBK500220
takes a m16 bolt, is 54mm OD (not inculding the lip) and 65mm wide....perfect for suspension links
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that sort of movement do you get with the mkIII ?
As much as a johnny joint......
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I have just looked them up as this has been quite an interesting thread, as I also have plans on doing a 3 link setup on my Landy.
The bush P/N is: RBK500220 or RBK000042 Both look pretty similar though.
As far as i know RBK500220 and RBK000042 are the same thing.
BUT the part number on the bags mine came in is RBK500220
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Rear lower wishbone to knuckle on a l322 RR...or 5 series bm of similar vintage.
I chucked them in the lathe and took the lip of them, there around 54mm OD so I used a bit of 60mm OD blue band 3.2 wall opened out a fraction for a press fit, tacked the 60mm pipe into the ends of the existing links as the p38 bushes were 60mm then pressed the new joints in.
I've had two Brit part ones on my daily driver l322 for two years 30+k and there still fine. Bear in mind the side loads they will see on RR will be massive as the wheel his a pot hole, where in this application they are only really going to be in tension so I'm confident they will last....other than the rubber boots getting torn Which would kill them fairly quick. But they are only 5 odd quid from island 4x4
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Well spotted bill, but that photo doesn't give a true representation as there still is a poly bush in the other (chassis) end of that link. As the ball joint moves reasonably free it with deflect on that end first.
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I think we might be talking about different bushes Mick, the bushes I'm using are Disco 2 chassis end of radius form bushes they are lot more voided than those in your pic.
That we are, looked at them first, from memory there about 80mm in dia far too much rubber to stop axle rotation on a three link or simialr ...fine for a one link though as you know.
the ones I went with were 60mm.
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heres a link with the p38 range rover axle end front radius arm bushes
![http://www.famousfour.co.uk/images/parts/ff005666.jpg]](http://www.famousfour.co.uk/images/parts/ff005666.jpg%5D){kind=link}
ibex 300 build
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
I've this set up on a g wagen and it works fantastic, I've never had a issue with muck getting it the tube.
I remove the rope after most events to clean it, and all though I've never had to remove or replace it while stuck after breakinging it, there is no reason as to why I can't.