mick the digger!
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Posts posted by mick the digger!
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here is one at the rear lower link at the axle end, this is it flexed out on 14" shocks with the springs re moved....the bush, actually a ball joint isnt maxed out here....they will mis aline more than a jonny joint....cost 6 pounds gbp from island 4x4!!
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. A bush like this would probably be ideal:
http://www.brookwell.co.uk/wp-content/themes/brookwell/getimg.php?p=RBX101680&q=pi
Disco 2 radius arm bush
I think this is what DD is using on the wrangle build Id give that a miss for anything really....I used twelve to do a front an rear 3 link on a g wagen....they lasted a few hours.
what killed them so fast was as the suspension flexed the bush needs to rotate far more than it would on a standard car, and as the center sleeve is bonded, and then in turn clamped to the bracket its bolted to it gets ripped free very quick with 14" shocks front and rear....once the center sleeve is no longer bonded the bushes are toast!
MKII was to use poloy bushes....the center sleeve is free to rotate...but even with nearly 9" of separtion between top and bottom links there just too soft as theres to much 'meat' in them alowing the axles tramp.
Mk III is these
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No worries, it's nice to have somewhere to post them.
How was the pajero doing? I do miss that car, it's sucsessful formula is driving this build!
You could do to post some of your work on here there would be a lot of interest for sure.
Ps. did you upgrade to rcv cv's for your rear steer?
yeah its doing fine from what i gather...certainly well put toghter!!
Im more of a lurker than a poster, but ill stick up a few things that im fiddling with.
Ended up ditching the rear steer, wouldnt bother again unless using 404's or planetarys ect.
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Thanks for posting your builds again, got to have a good look under your pajero hybird at an event over here a few months ago, very well built!!
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The first time I was proper stuck....learnt a lot that day....forgotten it all 6 years later!
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I'm looking to find out more information on valves for hydraulic winches, ive had a search and cant really find any information on them, so as there are lots of threads on hydraulic winches and pumps etc i though id start one about valves.
what are people using?
I want to use two cetop valves for front and rear winches and have been told by a supplier that I cant use P to T cetops (open center) with a hydraulic motor with a over center valve fitted?
They are saying I need a a/b to T so the fluid can return quickly....but then I need a un-loader valve (third cetop) and with this I dont think I will be able to use front and rear winches at the same time?
Anyone any thoughs?
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slightly off topic but, valves for hydraulic winches?
I want to use two cetop valves for winches and have been told by a supplier that I cant use two P to T cetops (open center) with a hydraulic motor with a over center valve fitted?
they are saying I need a a/b to T so the fluid can return quickly....but then I need a un-loader valve (third cetop) and with this I dont think I will be able to use front and rear winches at the same time?
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let us know the outcome of your set up after a good work out on a challenge event,
Carl.
Will do carl, thanks for your input.
By the sounds of it I might end up having to fit a clutch to the system.
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You are more than likely to over rev the pump so it wont last that long, Yes machines run pumps continuous for long hours but they are not trying to nail it up some steep muddy bank on a challenge event,
good point on over revving the pump, but we are talking about a vehicle that if it got used half a dozen times a year that would be it, ive read some stuff from the US where guys are running similar gear pumps at 5k rpm for long periods of time with no issue.
We used to have a sprinter tipper with a belt driven pump via an electromagnetic clutch, the lads used to leave it on the whole time, had it years and we never had an issue with a pump.
In my opinion a dog clutch is essential to diss engage drive to pump and a pump draws a fair amount of power from engine so by diss engaging you will have more power when you don't need to use winch,
I dont see how when the system is going to vent and not making any pressure you will loose any noticeable power, if this was the case how would a machine fitted with a hydraulic pump idle when started from cold if it was under load?
the engine only comes under load when you pull lever?
Again referring back to the sprinter we had if you switched on the pump with it idling you would barely notice the revs dipping it was similar to switching on full headlights.
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Nice job
, but it looks like you've got no clutch in there ?I engage and disengage mine as required. I don't see the point in running the pump for half the day whilst it's not needed (apart from warming up fluid) and only causing wear n tear. Likewise if you have a hose burst or something it's easy to isolate.
Regards
Gordon
your right gordon , no clutch I havnt really the room for one.
most if not all plant run the pumps full time, we have machines with 5000+ hours on original pumps.
Im using a p to t valve so when the winch is not in use it shouldnt draw much heat into the oil, just keep it warm for when it is needed, cold oil is no good.
But you are right if you burst a hose it is handy to isolate it, worst case I can pull the four bolts from the pump and withdraw it from the coupling.
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that's a bit more like it!
are they welded on similar to bead lock rings? if so, could i just use a set of bead lock rings instead?
i agree, the lip is pretty vulnerable on mods.
i only bought them at christmas (low offset 16x8s) so i'll be keeping them for a while.
yes there welded on the same way as beadlock rings, you could use a set of bead lock rings, but if you just want rock rings it would be far cheaper to get a set cut, or cheaper still just get some 12mm bar rolled into a ring and weld that to the rim, thats basically how the "rolled" lip is done a new mach5 rims.
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the lip on mods is carp, hence proper mach5 wheels come with a rolled bead
set of rock rings...either round bar or plate if you want to keep your mods.
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couldnt track down ready keyed shaft other than in the U S of A....so stopped being lazy and fired up the mill and made my own..
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Wow - lots of ideas!
All of them don't quite seem to deliver a switch that works as I thought it would though when I bought them. I'd emailed MUD and asked them about it - and they've offered a refund that I'll take them up on.
Croytec have confirmed the information above - that they sell versions orientated as per the usual European standard.
I might be being a bit pedantic - but I think a properly orientated switch will look better and be easier to use for where and what I want to use it for.
Thanks for all the input though - maybe this thread will help stop someone else buying the switches to be aware that they may be something different to what they want - and also give them a raft of work around ideas!
Ill be looking for some more in the next couple of weeks, and my money will be going to croytec again this time, Ive have no issue with mud, BUT the switches they sell are backwards!
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keep the stock pump for the steering, modify it to give better flow/ more pressure... or up grade to a ZF74.
fit a 20cc-28cc pump for the winch alone, bigger is not always better from what I under stand...maybe look at a twin stage HI/LOW pump.
most hydraulic gear pumps have a max rpm of 3000, but they all seem to last fine being over revved form time to time.
I'm sure a grown up will be along shortly with more precise answers.....
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checked it this evening, croytec supplied ones switch the correct way
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I bought some mud switches about a year ago and didnt realise that this was the case ether!
messed around with them a bit but gave up and just fitted them the way they are made to go. not really an issue when fitted but dose confuse other people.
I'm nearly sure on a cat digger (made in USA) we used to have that was fitted with Carling switches they operate in the correct way...having said that I think with American light switches in houses you do push in the top to turn on?
Ive a utv that I put some Carling switches on that came from http://www.croytec.co.uk/index.htm and as far as I remember they push down on the bottom to turn on....will double check later and report back.
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Arrived yesterday. Looks ok and everything is there, which is good.
The body of the gauge is deeper than I was expecting thus possibly limiting mounting options.
Might get a chance to install it this weekend.
Pete.
I finally got mine the other day to, the wiring is all there with the egt gauge...but as you said they are a little deep..the mounting bracket that
came with mine is useless for a panel that is less that 10mm thick.
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Following on from the thread I posted in the international forum looking for some feed back on the goodwinch two speed hydraulic winch I ordered it and shoud have it next week..so better crack on with mounting the pump and valve etc!
My hydraulic pump, valve and drive coupling arrived from flowfit the other day so lots to be getting on with!
the coupling i got is used for electric motors, but I will be driving it direct form the crank via the jaw coupling.
the motor side of the coupling is for a motor with a 38mm shaft with a 10mm key, anyone know where to a shaft this size, 70mm long would do as it will be welded to a flange plate that will bolt to the crank pully.
I'm nearly sure ive seen lengths of keyed shaft for sale somewhere?
or a old knackered motor would do and cut the shaft off it..
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thanks for the link fozsug, was looking for stuff like that a while ago
@ zim...they run upto m30!
they could be modified to be the same as the psc ones, would all depend on price the psc ones are spendy!
I made somthing similar a while for the end of a ram by using a 50mm long piece of 40mm solid square stock, drilled lengthways with a Allen head bolt sunk it to it, and two 8mm plates creating the clevis...make sense?
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for my lathe, mill and bandsaw I use water soluble cutting fluid/ coolant.
For drilling unless in the mill or lathe I use this http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/range/details/cutting-fluid/path/power-hacksaws-bandsaws-metal-cutting-saws this is cutting oil NOT WATER SOLUBLE so it wont work in coolant pumps for lathes ect as it says, (why I bought it) but works great in a squirty oil can for drilling, not so much with twist drills as i only use proper cobalt bit( unless 13mm +) but I wouldnt like to use hole saws without it!
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I bought a few gauges from them 2weeks ago was one short, and the face on one had a different logo on to the rest, rang them a few times still waiting on the other one to show up.
I bought the smoke face ones and there not great quality, but for the price you cant really argue,the wiring's a bit funny with them too, and no wires other than back light ones are included. not sure how well they will preform.
the last egt gauge I bought was one of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/270-AUTOGAUGE-52mm-SMOKED-EXHAUST-GAS-TEMP-GAUGE-/360335686611?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53e5ae3bd3
sorry now i didnt buy another auto gauge, OK there twice the price but still not mega bucks and they have worked well.
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thats a great find, thanks for sharing.
I was only dreaming of somthing like that lastnight and was going to take one of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DRAPER-36584-BATTERY-ALTERNATOR-ANALYSER-12V-DC-/190347120456?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2c51928f48 apart and try make it do the same thing!
has anyone got a link to the above lascar one?
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Mine engages with a 2 way air ram
G
thats the ticket! no belts or chains to worry about, how is the gear box driven from the pully, i presume you need a small shaft with two uj's like on older jcb 3cx's etc?
I think this is what DD is using on the wrangle build 
, but it looks like you've got no clutch in there ?
One Link and 3Link front suspension (homemade)
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
havent fitted a center check yet dan and it doesnt feel like it needs one as it doesnt seem to unload when climbing or desents but it is on oil shocks too though as makes its way more stable on side slopes as unlike the standard G gas shocks they dont extend under pressure. but this does in turn make the stadard springs a liitle to soft in rate..
the first bushes were brit part, as was done on the cheap...did buy one gen one from the local dealer before ordering the 12 from island, definatly far better quality...but I say it would have killed them the same way eventualy.
Your not going to see the same amount rotational force with a one link and especailly not with a center limit strap.