[Brake booster issue]

Hello everyone, i'm almost finished rebuilding a series 3 on a new frame, lhd conversion, 200tdi, etc. Before the rebuild the truck would stop fine after double-pumping the pedal. The master was leaking so it got replaced. Now here's my issue: even when the truck is off, I can pump the pedal and it will go straight to the floor. I can pump it repeatedly and quickly to build up pressure but as I keep pressure on the pedal, the air escapes somewhere. I'm wondering if I have a bad brake booster. I pulled the hose off the booster and when the truck is idling it has good vacuum. I'm guessing I have a leak in the booster diaphram? Any help would be great. Thanks,

Mack

[Disabling PAS on my defender 200tdi]

If you want it, I've got the power steering/alternator mount off a discovery that you can have for the postage. It will allow you to fit the pump/alternator in the proper place

Cheers

Pete

Thanks, I'll let you know if I'll end up needing it.

If you don't give the pump somewhere to send the fluid to you won't do the pump any good and the little bit of fluid will get hot. A temporary fix might be connect the outlet ond inlet together via a loop of pipe, but you'd be pumping stuff for no reason. Might be easier in the long run to whip the pump off and shift things about, and then re-arrange it again when the time comes?

I was thinking along the same lines, I assumed that the small amount of fluid would become too hot, so I thought about maybe completing the loop with the origional reservoir or something like that.

Has someone already modified the engine to fit in a series chassis???? I know room is limited on that side so might explain the setup.

My 200 defender has one belt that does the alt & water pump & the pas pump has its own.

Do you realy need the intercooler?? Or the turbo for that matter

I'm taking the 200tdi out of my series III chassis and and putting it in my series II chassis. The only modifications I will do besides figuring out this PAS issue was to make a new motor mount for the (UK) drivers side. And I don't "need" the turbo, but I got used to the increase of power from it, and would like to retain it. I'd like to be able to drive it most days and maintain freeway speeds/ability to pass. And as far as the intercooler goes, It won't be a hardcore wheeler, it will be mostly a daily driver and weekend wheeler, so I'd personally enjoy the "free" extra power of the cooler inlet temperatures.

[Disabling PAS on my defender 200tdi]

thanks for the help guys. I suspect I'll be doing a power steering conversion here in the future, maybe i'll leave the pump for now . I'm wondering if it would hurt anything to blank off the power steering fluid line and just leave what fluid is in the pump? My intercooler as it is right now would have to be re routed if I used the stock Series 2 steering box, so if I did a LHD PAS conversion with a Saginaw box which would be relatively easy and cheap to do here, that would mean I would have less headaches to deal with the intercooler placement and piping as well.

[Disabling PAS on my defender 200tdi]

Ok, that's odd - the alternator shouldn't be there - that's where the Air Con Compressor would be. The alternator should be on the right - above the PAS pump. Someone has moved it for some reaon. It looks like the inlet manifold has been blanked-off - what's that white patch above the PAS pump?

Les.

The white patch is just covering up the manifold inlet since the intercooler and piping is out. Not exactly sure why it was done this way either lol, or what the best solution is.

[Disabling PAS on my defender 200tdi]

the alternator is driven by the same belt as the water pump, PAS is totally seperate belt on a Def spec 200Tdi.

I must be confused then. Perhaps I have a discovery 200tdi with a defender exhaust manifold? As you can see the alternator is driven off the PAS. Any easy way around this? I've read of others using an alternator pulley off a different vehicle, and getting a new belt to run the water pump and alternator off the same belt? Thanks for the help, sorry for the confustion.

[Disabling PAS on my defender 200tdi]

It seems the belt needs stay there to power the alternator?

[Disabling PAS on my defender 200tdi]

So I have a rusted out RHD 1981 Series III that I'm rebuilding, and switching to LHD in the process. I obtained a rust free series 2 chassis and am doing the swap. My series has a 200tdi from a defender with power steering. I'm trying to retain the origional LHD steering box on my Series 2 frame. (for now) My question is this: is there an easy way to bypass the power steering? Possibly either by leaving the pump, or removing it? Thanks for any help.

[Series III discovery axle swap questions]

Hi So have you chosen what to go for yet? Iv fitted a 200tdi to my lightweight and now thinking about an R380 and Disco axles or maybe just disco diffs and a disc brake convo, Hard to decide!

I bought a set of FJ-40 axles. They're 30 spline off a later FJ (78). Disc in the front and upgrading to disc in the rear is cheap/easy. They're a lot stronger than the rover axles, they'll hold up to a 35-37. Has 4.11 gearing which will be about right for my setup. the axles themselves are cheaper than rover stuff and parts for yota axles are plentiful and cheap here.

[Primary input shaft's]

I'm in the US and was considering trying to modify a V8 r380 to fit behind my 200tdi. Trade you gearboxes?

[Series III discovery axle swap questions]

Thanks for the response. At first I was going to defend the fact that I mentioned I'd be upgrading the CV's/ rear shafts eventually given that the 24 spline isn't much stronger than the 10 spline stuff, but I realized that all this money could be spent in keeping the leafs, doing a SOA and throwing some toyota land cruiser axles on which are easier to find here, stronger, and have more gearing options. The reason I didn't want to do a SOA was because my maximum size for the lr axle of 33's would look silly, but the toyota's will hold up to at least 35's.

[Series III discovery axle swap questions]

Paul

Thanks for the response! I have thought about the rocky mountain kit, and you're right although it's expensive, so are my other options. Besides for the disc brakes, the 24 spline axles are also what I was after. Mainly because I wanted to be able to upgrade the cv's/shafts easily when I decide to move up to 35's later on. Having the tires stick out of the fenders won't be much of a problem, as long as I have mud flaps the cops won't give me any trouble. I've also read of having an adapter machined to mate the series axle case to a discovery hub, with the right spacing to retain stock length cv's/shafts. I may look into this.

[Series III discovery axle swap questions]

Paul

Thanks for the response! I have thought about the rocky mountain kit, and you're right although it's expensive, so are my other options. Besides for the disc brakes, the 24 spline axles are also what I was after. Mainly because I wanted to be able to upgrade the cv's/shafts easily when I decide to move up to 35's later on. Having the tires stick out of the fenders won't be much of a problem, as long as I have mud flaps the cops won't give me any trouble. I've also read of having an adapter machined to mate the series axle case to a discovery hub, with the right spacing to retain stock length cv's/shafts. I may look into this.

[Series III discovery axle swap questions]

Hello everyone, I live in the US and am currently rebuilding a series III. It has power steering, and a 200tdi with the series box/transfer case. Just finished some major bulkhead repairs as mine had rust issues that would normally call for a new bulkhead, but here in the US that is neither cheap nor easy to find. What I'm hoping to do is obtain disc brakes and upgrade my suspension. What I have is a LHD D1 as a donor vehicle. I've thought of converting the series frame to coils, or putting the series bulkhead/body onto the disco chassis, but being that the series is RHD and the disco is LHD, neither would be very straight forward. I plan on having my rag top hemed to be a single cab pickup and making a custom high clearance steel bed. I'm not opposed to keeping the leafs but what I do want is the disc brakes and the newer 24 spline axles which I can eventually upgrade easier/cheaper than the origional 10 splines. My question is this- should I keep the leafs and strip the disco axles and raise the leaf mounting plates in order to be able to clear the track rod, or should I invest my time in converting to coils? I'd like to have more suspension travel than stock, but this will be driven on the street mostly and go 4wheeling on the weekends so Im not looking for crazy flex. Looking for any advice or previous experience. Sorry for the long Post. Thanks, Mack.