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TS888

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Posts posted by TS888

  1. All you really need is the tunnel "flange" from the 300 seatbox, so if you old one is in good nick, a rusty one will provide the pieces you need. Drill out the spot welds, attache the flange to your seatbox with adhesive and rivets. Trim out your seatbox to match the tunnel, job done.

    Also, if you don't need a middle seat, the hand brake form a RRC can be used on top of the seat box, gives much needed ankle room.

    seatbox2.JPG

    insidein2.JPG

  2. I can't see that it's too difficult to do - the hinges all have ball centres so they are self-aligning. Surely it's a case of putting it together with the bolts only semi-tight, closing the door and then loosening and re-tightening the bolts so that everything lines up OK when the door is closed.

    That's what worked for me, anyway!

    Nick.

    ^^ this ^^

  3. I would expect more problems with solder on something semi-rigid, like a circuit board, from vibration and temperature contraction/expansion of unlike materials. Failed solder joints are a fairly common problem in older ECU's for this reason. I've never heard of problems with soldered wire connections.

  4. There's a screw on the back of the lock, it can be removed without taking the latch mechanism out of the door. It has a locking tab washer on it so you have to press the tabs down with a srewdriver, then I believe the screw is an 8mm hex head. And be aware -- there are two ball bearings that ride in grooves on top of the lock cylinder, and if you lose them the lock doesn't work!

  5. Just keep a Smart in the back like a lifeboat...

    The minimalist long distance trip kit is a 3/8 drive ratchet with 10, 13, 15, 17mm sockets, 3" and 8" extensions, a set of combination wrenches (OK, OK, spanners!) in 10, 13, 15, 17, 19mm sizes, a pair of 9/16 combos for prop shaft bolts (I really should by the proper tool), large and small flat screwdriver, large and small phillips screwdriver, needle nose pliers, water pump (adjustable) pliers, flashlight (3 D Maglight with LED bulb), duct tape, electrical tape, WD-40, litre of engine oil, litre of 90w gear oil, gallon of water, two ratchet straps, various size zip ties, cheap coveralls and gloves. Everything but the fluids fits in a small duffel, wrapped with a couple of bungee cords to keep it quiet and to have some bungee cords! And my Leatherman is always in the cubby.

    Ratchet straps are very useful. I once had a front lower control arm break on my BMW sedan, I was able to use a couple of large wrenches, some duct tape and the ratchet straps to mend it (think splint on a broken bone) and allow me to limp home 2 miles instead of calling a tow.

  6. You can buy the framing from YRM Metal Solutions, and have a welder fix up the frame. Then reskin and you're into a more or less new door for much less than the going rate. The lift handle doors use the frame profile like a SIII, not the later Defender style.

  7. The bad news is I started with a hole I couldn't get a finger through just to the rear of the tow hitch bracket and when I finished cleaning and cutting out carp I had removed the tow bracket and had an 8 inch hole in the bottom of the chassis. Sorry to be the bearer of that news and I hope yours isn't nearly so bad.

    Sounds familiar. On my 110, I started with a finger sized hole and ended up replacing the back 3 feet of the chassis, the rear x-member and the x-member in front of the tank... :blink:

  8. Hammerite comes in white, and brushes on and leaves a reasonably smooth finish if you use a good brush. It's also available in spray. You'll want to sand or wire wheel off as much rust as possible, and wipe the wheels down with degreaser (or just wash with dish liquid and dry) before you paint.

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