TS888

Start with this axle Then get bearings, and a piece of DOM for a pivot. Job done, probably under 30 quid all in.

Brilliant, many thanks Western!

Well, fudge. I suppose the gauge originated in a 200TDi vehicle then. I'd think the sender would work, as you say just need an appropriate adapter, and I suppose a T to keep the warning light sender. Thanks!

Can anyone confirm P/N PRC4043 is the correct sender for the factory oil pressure gauge? I tried searching, but have had no luck finding a P/N. I came up with that one from the Microcat and various parts seller websites, but I can't find a conclusive reference to the 300TDi. Many thanks!

All you really need is the tunnel "flange" from the 300 seatbox, so if you old one is in good nick, a rusty one will provide the pieces you need. Drill out the spot welds, attache the flange to your seatbox with adhesive and rivets. Trim out your seatbox to match the tunnel, job done. Also, if you don't need a middle seat, the hand brake form a RRC can be used on top of the seat box, gives much needed ankle room.

I like the unfinished ones.

Are the Delphi ones or Bearmach OK, or is genuine the only way to go here?

But if you do as Dyna VT did and create a new harness for the headlamps with relays and properly sized wire, your lights will be a lot brighter.

^^ this ^^

I don't think you'd notice much if any difference in power with a 300TDi. For other engines -- as the saying goes, there's no substitute for cubic inches...

You could probably pit a double DIN in a MudUK dash console. Double din -- that's a pretty good description of the noise level inside the average Defender....

I would expect more problems with solder on something semi-rigid, like a circuit board, from vibration and temperature contraction/expansion of unlike materials. Failed solder joints are a fairly common problem in older ECU's for this reason. I've never heard of problems with soldered wire connections.

I did this a few months back, and I soldered and shrink wrapped. It's not that many wires, you'll get it right.

There's a screw on the back of the lock, it can be removed without taking the latch mechanism out of the door. It has a locking tab washer on it so you have to press the tabs down with a srewdriver, then I believe the screw is an 8mm hex head. And be aware -- there are two ball bearings that ride in grooves on top of the lock cylinder, and if you lose them the lock doesn't work!

Having replaced a headlamp panel recently with the wing on, I think putting the entire wing together and installing it as an assembly would be the best path. Or so my scraped knuckles and scratched arms tell me...

I feel your pain, I'm in the process of prepping my 110 for paint and the lower door skins are thin and holey. I'm considering just skinning the bottom 3 or 4 inches with chequer. Evil, I know...

Why not pop in to an exhaust fitter and have a short bit of pipe welded in to replace the rear box? It's completely unnecessary, you'll not notice any more sound and you'll have a few less pounds to carry around.

Just keep a Smart in the back like a lifeboat... The minimalist long distance trip kit is a 3/8 drive ratchet with 10, 13, 15, 17mm sockets, 3" and 8" extensions, a set of combination wrenches (OK, OK, spanners!) in 10, 13, 15, 17, 19mm sizes, a pair of 9/16 combos for prop shaft bolts (I really should by the proper tool), large and small flat screwdriver, large and small phillips screwdriver, needle nose pliers, water pump (adjustable) pliers, flashlight (3 D Maglight with LED bulb), duct tape, electrical tape, WD-40, litre of engine oil, litre of 90w gear oil, gallon of water, two ratchet straps, various size zip ties, cheap coveralls and gloves. Everything but the fluids fits in a small duffel, wrapped with a couple of bungee cords to keep it quiet and to have some bungee cords! And my Leatherman is always in the cubby. Ratchet straps are very useful. I once had a front lower control arm break on my BMW sedan, I was able to use a couple of large wrenches, some duct tape and the ratchet straps to mend it (think splint on a broken bone) and allow me to limp home 2 miles instead of calling a tow.

I have a set of airbags I inherited with an axle I bought. Does anyone know how they affect spring compression when uninflated? I have considered popping them in, but I don't want the rear to be restricted when unladen beyond the inherent resistance of HD springs.

You can buy the framing from YRM Metal Solutions, and have a welder fix up the frame. Then reskin and you're into a more or less new door for much less than the going rate. The lift handle doors use the frame profile like a SIII, not the later Defender style.

Your information suggests that the person who told me a 4 pin p38 diff was a straight swap into an older 3rd member is wrong. Good to know.

Sounds familiar. On my 110, I started with a finger sized hole and ended up replacing the back 3 feet of the chassis, the rear x-member and the x-member in front of the tank...

Too bad LR never gave it proper attention...

Check with YRM Metal Solutions. 01388 488150 or mobile 07885 490690 And Craddock Surplus on eBay

Hammerite comes in white, and brushes on and leaves a reasonably smooth finish if you use a good brush. It's also available in spray. You'll want to sand or wire wheel off as much rust as possible, and wipe the wheels down with degreaser (or just wash with dish liquid and dry) before you paint.