Frogland
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Posts posted by Frogland
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Hiya ,I'd like to know the mileage and how many holes on the head gasket , cheers hope it get's sorted- Matt.
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I've heard of cases where the ejector has become blocked by debris in turn impeding the release of air in the system through the expansion tank, creating air blocks and causing overheating !! it's worth checking on from time to time.
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I've heard that a defective ejector hose assy can cause big problems even HG failure.It's possible for the valve to get blocked with cooling system deposits, is there a way to verify it's functioning ok i.e a few air bubbles in the expansion tank on start up ? it seems strange that such an apparently inocuous item could be the cause of major problems.
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I'm ordering a new cyclone breather,theres a big difference in prices between the lesser makes and the original part.It seems quite a simple unit would it be a massive risk to buy the cheaper version.
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Is there a trick for getting the wipers to sit properly at the bottom of the windsreen when they're off ? I keep taking mine off and readjusting them they either sit too high on the windscreen or they want to rest on the bulkhead .
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So this washer is intended to stop oil leaking through the thread of the tensioner bolt,right ?
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I can confirm that the difflock tutorial doesn't mention the penny washer neither was there any mention of it in the instructions they sent with the kit.I'd like to know of any tutorial that does mention it.
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Thanks for the speedy reply.
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In 7 months of ownership and about 3000 kms the oil level on my 300tdi has dropped from full to the lo notch on the dipstick. It's got all the usual leaks underneath the IP area and the rocker cover,so does this amount of loss seem normal ? and how many liters are there between the hi and lo mark on the dipstick ?
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Hi when i got my 300 tdi it had the same symptoms I said to myself 'it must be the injectors will change them' My priority at the time was the cambelt since i didn't know when it had last been changed. Anyway when i did get around to the cambelt i discovered the IP was a bit 'out' i reset everything and changed the belt-now it's nowhere near as black smokey as before.It only blows a bit black when i'm a bit heavy footed in fourth or fifth.
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"I spent months preparing and looking at all the tutorials for replacing the cambelt on a 300tdi"
I take it you didn't read the Difflock one then?
That is the one I used as the main guide when doing mine last year and they mentioned it.
I'm 99% sure that even the difflock tutorial doesen't mention it,I wanted to check but there's a 404 error on the page.I'm trying to figure out exacctly how oil can leak through from behind the tensioner.
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Was it not included in your cambelt kit? It should have been!
Yes it was ,i know, i should have asked ,it just seemed so.....well....useless,i'm kicking myself now.So it's gauranteed that oil is going to leak into the timing case ? all because i missed one little paper washer ? I really enjoy my def but this sort of thing is so landiesque.
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AAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRHHHHHHHH !!!!!!! I can't believe it , I spent months preparing and looking at all the tutorials for replacing the cambelt on a 300tdi and there was no mention of a penny washer size stick on gasket for the timing belt tensioner bolt, to stop oil getting into the timing case.I've done 500 miles since changing mine when i looked through the wading plug on the front cover this morning and it was spotless. Has anyone changed their belt without renewing this washer and not had any oil leak from behind the tensioner ?
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Its between the block and the back of the timing cover so only applies if your taking the whole timing casing off the block (i had to when converting a discovery engine to defender spec)
Its on the parts diagram but annoyingly i failed to notice it & had to strip the whole thing down again to stop oil leaking from the adjuster bolt.
So when just replacing the cam belt its not an issue unless you have an oil leak from the adjuster bolt. or need to take the back timing case off the block.
Jon
pheeeuuuw !!
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When you replaced the gasket between the timing case and the block did you also replace the small round gasket that seals the timing tensioner bolt?
Jon.
What's all this about ?
I read every tutorial on the web before changing my cambelt and never heard about this gasket, now I'm getting cambelt paranoia !!!
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Oil seems to be collecting in the circular recess of my 300tdi brake vacuum pump is this common ? the brakes are fine,but if this is a warning sign i'll put a new one in,I'm going to to be working in that area soon since I 'm replacing the fuel lift pump.
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Oil seems to be collecting in the circular recess of my vacuum pump hence I'm not entirely sure whether it's a leak from the casing ? could anyone shed some light on this for me.
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The best way to adjust a throrrle cable is
Get somebody to sit in the vehicle and hold the pedal to the floor.
You then adjust the cable so at full pedal travel there is a slight bit of play in the inner cable.
Unless you have that bit of play, then you will be streatching the inner cable and eventually breaking that cable.
Thanks,just to deviate a little I've got an oil leak in the oil filter housing area,so I'd like to remove the housing and change the various o rings and gaskets in the vicinity,do I have to remove the IP in order to do it and if so how is the IP supported afterwards ?
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Thanks, so obviously mine needs adjustment.
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I'm looking to adjust the throttle cable but i'm not sure as to what the manual means when it says there should be 1.57 mm of deflection on the inner cable. Here are some pics of my setup at present I've never attempted to do this before and I don't think the previous owner had either. As you can see from the pictures there's quite a lot of slack on the plastic accordian that covers the inner cable.Hopefully someone can clear this up for me ?
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I'm replacing the plastic cooling plugs and have received the some brass bearmach ones (ERR4686B) I also have the some corresponding o rings.The thing is that when I tighten them up the o ring gets pushed out.can I use the Brass plug by itself without the o ring ?
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Ask them if they've ever heard of the Sales of Goods Act, and specifically your statutory right that the goods must be of a reasonable quality. Failing like that after 3/4 months means it cannot have been so.
It was faulty to start with; i purchased it in april but only put it on last week .
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doubt it, the rad end would get in the way of lifting the cowling out.
bad luck with a cracked new pump.
I was releived to have finally found the cause of the leak,it was driving me nuts
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Since changing the cambelt I've had the waterpump on and off 4 times !! I could race anyone to drain the cooling system and get the cowling off,mind you i would like to know if it's possible to remove the cowling without removing the top rad hose ? anyway,leak after leak ,changed the gasket and loads of sealant only to discover the brand new airtex water pump was CRACKED !!! am i unlucky or what ? and of course since i purchased it back in April the well-known LR supplier doesen't want to know. So i've ordered a new one and then maybe i can wangle something with the faulty one .
Windscreen Crank Gear
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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Great info guys,this works! Unfortunately for me when i was undoing the nut where the shaft goes into the motor,I found it really stiff,I applied some bicep power of which i have a fair amount (much to my detriment) i crimped the driveshaft tube aaaaarrrrhhhh!!!! learning curve..be careful.