Jason2
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Posts posted by Jason2
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It'll almost certainly be a blown headgasket - they tend to blow between cylinders 3 & 4. It'll be chuffing from the compression / ignition on piston 3.
Matt
Naaaaaaa! No head gasket symtoms!
Checked push rods, reset tappets to no avail it's a b*gger trying to locate, got me ear on the end of my jack bar listening all over the place, nearest that I can locate it to is sump.
Kicking a lot of smoke out too, starting to think it might be the crank pulley that's slipped on it's woodruff keys-Would that make a tapping noise?
Have a listen
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Hi
Just bought a 1990 200tdi sw Def and there's a weird iregular tapping/knocking coming from the engine (bought it cheap knowing there was a problem with enjun!) that get's noiser and more regular as it warms up, lot of smoke too! starts on turn of the key! Old owner who I believe told me it started out of the blue and has just got worse!
Noise seems to be coming from the rear of the rocker cover, broken push rod? tappet? valve?
Any thoughts before I have a look tomorrow!
Cheers
Jason
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9/10 times it's the drive dowel....
Could you explain a little more please rusty??
Does this dowel wear/break giving slack? How do you change it and where do you get one from?
Cheers
Jason
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hi guys
im phil 21year old student in liverpool and here is my landrover:
Nice one chap!
Far better than the Golf GTI that I had at your age
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Thanks Rich & rusty wingnut. Could be or the wear in the gears to the inj pump.
Would still like to know who's smokes, how much and what colour as I've read on a few French forums that say they all do?
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Hi
I had 2 and my mate had 1 2 1/4 diesel landys all 3 of them smoked a little on tick over which cleared when driving gently, the smoke came back when accerlating hard.
chris
Thanks Chris, that makes me feel better, were you getting white or black smoke, I'm getting white! It's a lot better than it was after ajusting the timing with the injection pump but I've run out of ajustment.
Jason
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Hi
As the title.some say they were made like that some don't agree.What does yours do?
I have a 2 1/4 diesel that smokes a little on tick over (my mates does too) I dont want to get into changing the timing chain,pump,farting about etc as I have far too much welding and other stuff to do on it first!
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Good question????
I've had the 2 alternators go in the last 6 months on the 110 and worse still on the Disco where I had to drive 400 miles with no electrics, both were full of mud when I took them off.
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Batteries are fantastic for regulating currents, hence the reason why you should never disconnect the battery leads whilst the engine is running as your thus unregulated alternator power output can blow very expensive bits on RRS and the likes of.On a series you probably only risk a light bulb or 2.
For info I'm currently experimenting with a waterwheel to make electricity, at full whack the generator can produce 140volts/6amps DC, when I connect up to a 12v car battery I get 14v across the terminals
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I use 2 trolley jacks and a bit of wood
Les.
Yeh but do you take the g & t-box off in one lump? well strapped up prevents things from going "pear shaped"
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How people do Disco transmissions or even a Defender without a transmission jack I do not know.
I use about 6 racket straps to hold box, pull it back, then lower and reverse to put it back! takes ages but a sure way of doing things.
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I could not remove the spigot bush but the old one looked ok so I left it.
Fill the bearing 3/4 full of grease, find an approx diameter bar to go in spigot bearing and give it a short sharp tw*t with a hammer.The grease forces the bearing out
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Sorted, piece of pish
First bush was a bit of a cow as I was useing 12mm threaded bar to pull it into the chassis that kept threading/snapping, so for the second one I used a long 14mm bolt-sweet as
Thanks for the help!
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polybushes........ absolute waste trying to get genuine bushes back in with brute force and ignorance / force of will / psychokinetic powers.
i would rather pay someone else to do it than waste hours of my life with a rubber bush in a series chassis!
Just pay a few quid extra, get some decent polybushes and 30 seconds later they are fitted!!! As for ride comfort etc, its a series! they aint a rolls royce so get over it and accept polys are a bit stiffer
As for them wearing out quicker... yep i'm sure they do, but you could remove the springs and replace a polybush and refit the springs about 5 times in the time it takes to remove a rusted in bush and somehow squeeze a new genuine bush back in!
Well I've got them know so the "barstools" are going in one way or another
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So once one has mastered the art of getting the little tinkers out how does one get the git's back in?
Haveing perticular problems with the front chassis bushes, rushing I managed to wreck one knocking it in with a soft mallet
Bush in freezer? chassis in oven? make a puller?
Cheers Jason
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Joy of Joys
New condensor arrived yesterday, got a new coil to as there only a £5.
Can you believe it
? Started first time and purrs like a pussy cat Thanks for all your help
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Ignition Coil may be well worth a try. I have had them in the past where you get a spark when testing at one plug, but as soon as the engine starts to fire the spark fails.
Might be worth a try at least.
Cheers! But I have already tried a different coil.
Waiting for a new condensor from the U.K at the mo!
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Nothing too scary there for a 2.25 engine, a little low, but I guess it's not a new engine?
yeh that's what I thought certainly should'nt stop it starting
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Just done a compression test:
cyl 1=9.8 bar
cyl 2=10 bar
cyl 3=9.6 bar
cyl 4=8.6 bar
Then did the same test after squirting a bit of oil in each pot.
cyl 1=10.2 bar
cyl 2=10.5 bar
cyl 3=10.7 bar
cyl 4=9.2 bar
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I once had a problem that looked like a blocked filter, it would run on tickover, and rev but would not run properly under load. It turned out to be a loose union on the tank, allowing a mixture of air and fuel to be pumped into the carb. Maybe?
I have put a clear piece of fuel pipe in between the carb & the fuel evaporater thingy on the bulk head, there is a few air bubbles coming through & then when the ignition is turned off return back from the carb up to evaporater.
Remember I can't even get her to start
Hopefully will have a compression tester tomorrow.
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I had those symptoms with my 2 1/4 in a Ninety, nearly drove me mad. It always seemed like fuel starvation as in it would cut out or misfire under load on a steep hill or pulling away from lights too quickly. Gazzar asked in a previous post if the anti run on device was getting power ? A lot of people refer to the idle fuel cut off solenoid on the side of the carb as the anti run on device but he may have meant the solenoid on the bulkhead which is an anti run on device.It is Tee`d into the brake servo vacuum hose,i removed mine and the tee piece after i found the solenoid sticking open slightly.
There is no T in the servo vac pipe or solonoid on the bulk head.There are 2 solonoids on the carb one for the anti-run on and the other the top of the carb I think is for air to/from the float chamber.
I could'nt even get the bl**dy thing to run today with "Easy Start" will fire but not start!
Thanks for your replies all the same
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Long shot, but.............
any chance the spark leads got mixed up?
G.
If only!
Leads,D-Cap are all new numbered.
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I reckon it's got to be witchcraft
Carb in bit's again, new plugs, points, checked valves not sticking/re-set, fuel is getting through, there is a spark but she wont have it, fires,want's to run but won't
Checked every thing, re-checked & checked again, all O.K!
No 1 spark plug is sooty 2,3,4 are definitely at lot less! come to the conclusion that the valves are snuffed and lost compression.
When I bought the old girl she was gutless and after a compression test showed low compression especially on pots 2,3,4 which I put down to lack of clearance on the tappets and once re-set sorted the problem and has always gone like a good un since.
Will try and borrow a compression tester tomorrow but am nearly sure now that the head needs a re-con!
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Disheartening isn't it. i've been through much of what you've tried also, had the head removed, skimmed all the valve guides replaced, valve seals. Changed the piston rings and made no difference. came to the conclusion that it was the cylinder bores that were worn and needed re-boring. that was going to be too much of an expense/time consuming so I gave up on the engine and baught a 2.5nad for £400 off ebay. It hasn't had much of a run after changing it but it doesn't smoke at all. At the end of the day it's an old engine and you have to decide weather its worth carrying on or cheeper to just replace it.
Let us know how you get on!
Cheers,
Lee
Cheers Lee that makes me feel a bit better
When I get time I'm going to have a look at the fuel side of things, injectors,pump,pipes & timing!
Will keep you posted.
Jason
? Started first time and purrs like a pussy cat 
TAP,TAP 200tdi TAP,TAP,TAP,TAP
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Just tried the nut on the crankshaft pulley & it's loose
so it could be that for the smoke and summet else for the noise!