Lars L
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Posts posted by Lars L
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Injection Pump.
I.e. the pipe that goes to the diaphragm on the pump which increase fuelling according to turbo boost pressure.
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75-80 is too low. The hotter, the better for a diesel to be really effective. Obviously with margin to the boiling point of course...
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I suppose that the plate is thick enough to tap. I made my own from 4 mm flat iron bar and tapped, no problems. BTW, got a reply from Auber saying that the probe is OK to bend with a 15 mm radius.
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I'll send an e-mail to Auber and ask if it's OK to bend it.
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With proper and good thermostats, my 200Tdi as well as the 300Tdi (both having VDO gauges) are slightly below 90°C at speed on the open road. Driving on smaller roads and at low speeds, the engines don't heat up enough to open the thermostats unless during hot summer weather.
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Me too... But I wonder if welding in a piece of female threaded tube at an angle like White 90 has done would make any difference. With the thermocouple is put straight in, it really doesn't get into the exhaust stream but rather into the pocket below where the EGR valve sat. But I assume the temperature will be the same there as further into the manifold...
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I use the Philips version of the Osrams and they give a much whiter light output than ordinary H4 bulbs. Also, it says 8000K xenon bulbs in the heading. These give an almost violet light probably suitable for max bling only. To get the best usable light output in spotlights etc that are on only together with high beam, 4300K is the way to go. IMHO after having had 5500K and getting tired of the blue light...
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Modified my post after reading once moore... I've used ordinary silicone on mine.
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They look exactly like the Pewag Brenta-C set I have. Either they are and in that case very cheap. Or - they are copies and will probably last for a good while anyway. Mine get very little use, have been used only when offroading and normal snow tires give up.
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Same rig here... And same small hole. So I simply cut away and opened it up to get more air in. "Did it improve the heating?" I hear you ask. Not that much, but anything is an improvement.
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I also found my 110 from -97 to be quite unstable in corners. The anti roll bar doesn't seem to help much, so I followed the advice given to others on this forum and fitted progressive springs from a later (Td5) 110 at the rear. Problem more or less solved. And the good thing is that I already had the springs since they sat on a rear axle I bought from a scrappy for my One Ten.
The Boge unit is still sitting there, but will probably never be engaged to function since the springs lifted the rearend a little. The springs are a bit more stiff, but not in any way uncomfy.
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A couple of mates did this to their narrow tracks to be able to tow with their RRCs. Obviously, they lost the overrun brakes, but that's no problem over here since the brakes can't be approved anyway.
Unbraked and a total gross weight of 750 kgs is what's OK here.
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And more true round... Ordinary drills tend to make a somewhat triangular hole.
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50 quid or so buys you a proper VDO gauge and sender at Merlin Motorsports. The standard gauge is something of a dummy telling you that the temp is "normal" or not, while the VDO tells you the degrees.
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Except one of well known origin... You know.
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Right. Here goes...
My ex-MoD One Ten has had some upgrades during the years - Disco 200Tdi and also a short bellhousing R380 from Ashcroft.
It has been my daily driver for 9 years, but since I found a 97 Defender with low mileage the first thought was to sell the old one off. But it has been a good and trusty companion for almost 100.000 miles and you really don't sell a friend... So it will remain as the wagon for heavier offroading.
I now can get my hands on a 3.9 from a Disco for silly money which could be fun since the miles will be few.
Am I right in assuming that a conversion ring for a V8 into Series is, among other stuff like engine mounts etc, is what's needed to get it onto the gearbox?
Are there any other pitfalls that makes it more or less impossible to achieve?
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Since the original temp sender on a 300Tdi looks so tiny, is it 1/8" NPT?
Edit: Found in technical archive...
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Thanks Snagger! I'll crawl under to have a look. When it stops raining. Which will be on Tuesday...
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LHD ones aren´t bolt on.
If not, it would be nice if I as customer could be told and they at least would fit without being altered... Also the QT website says that every item comes with instruction. No, they don't! And when mailing them asking for assistance nothing happens. Not that QT is the only British company acting like that...
Anyhow, I can make their "excellent" product ready myself.
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Their website clearly states that it's for a 110 LHD. Some serious bending would be needed to get the tabs in contact with the diff housing for welding... If that's what needed, the protector is only half ready to be sold IMHO.
This shows the "good" side, the other is further away from the housing due to the protector not being straight. Or the diff itself...
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I have bought one of these from one of their outlets for my Def 110. It sits at the back in the two bolts that normally hold the trackrod protector in place. (Still Whitworth...) But at the front there are a couple of bolts and threaded plates that go nowhere and that I can't figure out.
I have e-mailed QT for an explanation or a fitting instruction, but (as so common) no reply.
Can someone here assist? -
Thanks! Paddock will probably get an order then.
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I think I've got myself a 110 CSW from 1997 with an almost unseen low mileage. If nothing goes wrong, I'll pick it up on Monday.
It's had a little battering in the corners due to an old driver and one of the front outer fenders might be too hard to get back into shape. Paddock sell these made in ABS plastic which seems to be a good idea since they spring back instead of being crushed. Within reason... Maybe that's why many modern euroboxes have plastic fenders too. Does anyone here have any experience of these? Do they look OK. Do they at all fit? Should I buy?
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Yup, I have measured and found it necessary to have the thickest gasket. Thanks to the numpty that skimmed it a bit too much. Even though I told him to be really careful.
I think I saw somewhere that they are listed for 300 Tdi only.
Power Steering Hoses
in International Forum
Posted
Problem is that the threads on the steering box is not of a normal hydraulics standard. I had to bring the original connectors when a hose burst. Making a hose was not that easy anyway, since the ones they have are steel reinforced and has no "give" when pushing them onto the connector. It took a while but was sorted OK.