101nut
-
Posts
155 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by 101nut
-
-
^^^^^^ I could do with MM in 25K as well. Purely for evaluation purposes
Yep, the 1:50K are a bit limited sometimes ... cost me enough for them!
AndyG
-
Read on the RPI site (usually with a pinch of salt
) that you shouldn't use resistive HT leads with resistive plugs.That is correct - non-resistive with resistive which ever way around.
I used Fastlane Auto (on the web) - good leads at a good price. In my experience much better than Halfrauds Bosch and they replaced a dodgy set of Lucas which were no longer recommended as a replacement by my local Lucas dealer due to too many complaints! I think the Lucas had better sealing plug caps but you can't have everything without spending £stupid.
AndyG
-
I had forgotten about how heavy the door is,
4-doors have heavy doors? pah!
Now 2-Doors mate, they build the biceps!
AndyG ... who's got to replace both 2-door sets of hinges
-
I'm not 100% sure where the play is. I don't think its the bearing in the box
Do the splines of the drop arm wear, or the shaft of the steering box, or both. Would I get away with a new drop arm or do I need a new box?
It's a 4 bolt box BTW.
Cheers,
Been there with a three-bolt box. I have a theory that some aftermarket arms 'relax' on the splines and as they become lose they wear the shaft splines, after that you've got no hope of keeping them tight, even (in my experience) with a new arm.
You could try a new arm but clean the shaft splines well and make sure they are straight - a shoulder worn into them high up near the box will not allow the new arm to seat fully. If you're happy apply a little loctite and do the thing up F. T. followed by the usual locktab turned over etc. I also ground out the top 1/16" or so of the splines to form a clean bevel to make sure the arm slid on far enough when tightened. If that lot doesn't work then it's certainly tome for a new box ...
AndyG
-
I've just had to sort this on my 1995 softdash rangie!
If you look at the inner wing there is a box section that runs along it at the top. Mine had corroded through on the inside of this box section through into the footwell.
Shouldn't be rot as the inners were replaced not-so-long ago ... but there is the bolt fixing at the rear of the box-section IIRC which could be leaking through by capilliary action ... looks like wing off this weekend!
AndyG
-
Exactly at the title ... my Range Rover gets water into the driver's footwell when it rains - not driven so not road splash - and I can't find the point of entry.
I thought it was the windscreen seal where the gutter helpfully empties onto it but liberal quantities of silicon have not cured it.
I've tried a 'creeping crack cure' around most of the windscreen rubber to glass join but it seems fairly solid with no obvious leak points drawing the fluid in.
Without taking the scuttle pannel off, is there a joint under it to the bulkheak that could leak or is the bulkhead a panel with the 'windscreen wiper housing' section applied to it so should be watertight?
It is only a dribble running down the corner of the footwell but I know it's going to rust either where it's getting in or at the base of the A pillar in the footwell (again) and having just replaced the floor I don't want that job again for another 30 years!
Any ideas?
AndyG
-
Yes, I just bought one that has a 200 series Servo/master cylinder fitted in place of the abs rubbish.
ABS on a 1980 RR?
Don't know the correct answer apart from the obvious metric/imperial fittings swap but you'll be remaking pipes anyway.
AndyG
-
Eeek, you're into big territory then - best bet is to read the wattage off the hairdryer and add ~50% as things take a kick to get started. At that end of things you're almost better off buying a generator.
... or hold the missus by the ankles and swing her around your head until dry ...
AndyG
-
They don't have breakaway cables as it's impossible to happen if correectly hitched, bit of a grey area but nobody I know bothers.
Not a grey area at all, just a case of whether you choose to risk it.
Unbraked trailers need a chain or similar attachment to keep the nose off the ground in the event of hitch failure (the grey area here is whether a skid under the hitch does the job). A braked trailer must have a breakaway cable that activates the brakes if there is hitch failure.
AndyG
-
I don't quite understand where LRM currently stand in all of this. Whether they accept liability or not is irrelevant - surely it should currently be the insurance company covering the event dealing with the claim not LRM themselves ... assuming they were insured correctly of course.
AndyG
-
So nice of you to perform slapstick for your friends amusment
Fantastic and somewhat comedic ... says he wiping tears from his eyes
AndyG
-
small block of magnesium bolted to the steel frame
the magnesium reacts with steel before the aluminium so once that goes, replace it onstead of the aluminium door skins
Sacrificial anode will only work if the whole door is wet all the time ...
AndyG
-
he used American car brake parts for that salisbury conversion. i can't remember what he said they came off of, but it wasjust some run of the mill car there that parts were easily obtainable.
And I bet as always they only use 5 stud hubs rather than 6 ...
AndyG
-
Waivers can be (and often are) thrown out of court as unfair contracts.
And as far as I am aware no waiver can cover unreasonable or incompetent behaviour. If the problem was a result of irresponsible or reckless actions you have a case, however if the marshall was taking reasonable and justifiable action for the situation then there is no claim.
AndyG
-
Oh, and by the way he isn't Rolf Harris's brother!
AndyG
-
Avoid 'easy outs' or similar as they are generally carp, break and give you more grief. You could try the snap-on/irwin type removers which are a like a steeply ground left-hand 'drill' which grips the remnants of the bolt and will attempt to unscrew it. Because they are siezed solid this will probably fail and you'll swear.
At this point find a nut that fits snugly over what's left of the bolt and weld the the stud to the nut with a good MIG blast. Let it set then unscrew the 'bolt' which you've just made ... If it shears off you've lost nothing but it'll be more likely to work as the heat helps break the corrosion as well.
There's a demo of this somewhere by Mike Rogers but I can't recall the link ...
hang on try this ... stud removal
AndyG
-
And repeat after me ...
'Vices are not meant for pressing in bushes'.
Buy another vice and a cheapo press from Machine Mart or wherever ...
AndyG
-
Hmmm.
Seems I will be a voice in the wilderness then!
Make that two... or is it an echo
'Genuine' blue polybushes on my '72 Range Rover have behaved well so far (about 18 months) ... got fed up smacking the radius arm bushes out with a sledgehammer every year so decided on something different!
AndyG
-
It used to be an accepted practice as a fire marshall to run to an accident with the powder extinguisher basically upside down. When you got there and flipped it right side up to let it off it was less likely to be packed.
Oh and the quote I got from somebody just before the MSA finally withdrew BCF was that to put out a fuel fire on average you need 9 litres of AFFF where 1 of BCF would do ... That's assuming the AFFF isn't frozen and that it's a good quality extinguisher that hasn't internally corroded ...
AndyG
-
Just a comment that I don't currently have either MJ or MS fitted but this thread is fascinating and making my wallet-finger itch
AndyG
-
I use a Black and Decker bullet drill, which drills it's own pilot as it goes. Reasonably priced, they cut nicely and last well in my experience.
Never tried them though have been tempted. I read somewhere that B&D were the biggest producer of drills in the world ... so they must be getting something right!
AndyG
-
Another issue is pilot holes. Technically the pilot should not be significantly larger than the size of the web (the 'horizontal' tip) of the drill to follow. More often than not people complain about blunt drills but it's because they're allowed to 'rub' on the job which heats then blunts them very quickly rather than applying the correct pressure to get them to cut cleanly. I bought a set of screwfix HSS drills ages ago and have been ok - certainly not significantly worse than a set of Dormers.
Oh, and according to my irate-engineer-type-house-mate a drilling machine drives a drill which when it breaks becomes a bit of a drill ... bleedin' woodworkers use bits, engineers use drills. Unfortunately I'm really a chippy so I get told off a lot!
AndyG
-
.
If you can whack a slighly smaller socket on the starter bolt, then it's a lot better than removing the manifolds in order to get a long chisel on it.
Or even a bigger hex since it's a socket-head bolt!
I read somewhere recently that a large enough torx bit smacked into the bolt head works better than an oversize hex ... not tried it myself though
AndyG
-
Method:
Drain most of oil out of swivels (if there is any!), drive to MOT and have MOT done, fill swivels.
What leaky swivels at MOT?
AndyG
) that you shouldn't use resistive HT leads with resistive plugs.
Does Cillit Bang work on rusty screws?
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Cleaning and "removing the surface of" may look similar but are not neccesarily the same. A nice strong solution of sulphuric acid cleans metal parts ... unless you pickle them too long and they dissolve.
Or concentrated chilli oil ... which I've found can etch stainless steel knives 
AndyG