101nut

Sorry to say that the 101Club answers to this question are probably going to be more specific than most from this forum Ed. Good luck though. AndyG

I have an early 70's steering column with a worn top bearing and a very sloppy bottom one. The top is not a problem - apart from the price. The bottom bearing is supposed to not be replaceable without the column but I've just found a bottom bearing for £12 ... any idea whether it's a waste of money or is it actually fittable? Another column I've got is a bit too corroded to positively tell but it looks to me as if the bearing is pressed into the end of the column tube and the flange formed to secure the bearing ... In that case it'd be a case of removing the flange, replacing the bearing and putting a machined sleeve retainer on to hold it ... Ideas anyone? AndyG

I would think the 10.5:1 compression and LPG would be a good match ... pink like hell on unleaded unless you chuck some decent additive in it but that wouldn't be a major issue if you're not using it much ... AndyG

What about going the other way and using a mod on the fuel gauge to read the sensor? Would fit, look right and not be quite so bling for us oldies AndyG

I think the answer is no, not for the simple mechanical reason you expect though! Two door front seats (and the seat backs) are rare in that they are specially made to conform to BS standards for seatbelt mountings, four door seats aren't so cannot be fitted unless you implement an alternative mounting method for the shoulder strap. The door pillar on a two door is not a suitably reinforced anchorage as standard. Been there and nearly bought a lovely set of leather seats before someone pointed out the obvious to me!! AndyG

Are you saying it won't work because the fuel will get dizzy? AndyG

What is 'off road' in your case? Greenlanes that are not private ROWs are public highways and your normal insurance must cover you by law - don't believe the cr*p about 'we are doing you a special favour by covering you for greenlanes' - they do anyway. Off roading on a publicly accessible space will mean you are covered - this would be an area which is freely accessible to all members of the public but is not a normal highway for instance a supermarket car park or any other 'open' space. Off roading on a space for which you have to pay to enter, join a club or satisfy other specific conditions to gain entry is much more difficult. Technically the law regards the usual 'promotional permits' for events as granting an extension to the public highway which is why participating vehicles must be road legal. However because there are specific conditions of entry an insurance company usually attempts to deny liability with a 'not used for trials, competitions etc etc' type clause. This would be an interesting one to fight for anyone who has the cash. The organisers running the event should have insurance which will cover their third party liability only. Interestingly, as a driver if you take a passenger for a trip around a 'promotional event' off-road course and they are injured for whatever reason you are personally liable for any claim made, not your insurance ... If available, specific insurance for such off-road activity would necessarily attract a high premium as it would have a high risk of claim. AndyG

Personally I splattered mine with waxoyl and left the ends open with the theory that anything that gets in can get out and it'll dry out pretty quickly ... no drain holes to clog with mud etc etc AndyG

Shouldn't be too difficult. If it hasn't been removed for a long time the tie bar bolts may be corroded into the tubes but may free with violent application of a knocking stick. I have had success with a good blowlamp on the chassis tubes then a good smack of the bolts with a lump hammer and a drift. Having said that, the last ones I removed had been in for 25 years and still had their green coating on them!! Otherwise you should be ok with a good set of spanners/sockets. I assume you're not very familiary with this sort of thing? If that's the case two tips: Wire brush the threads as much as possible before you start, apply penetrating oil and let it soak in. Once you get the nuts moving, keep them moving as they'll heat up a bit and expand. If you stop they'll cool and probably stick again ... AndyG

If you do vaseline leather gaiters I've got a couple of tips: 1) Rub the vaseline all over then heat with a hair drier, the leather will absorb twice as much with little work. 2) Get the missus to buy a big pot of vaseline. Buy it yourself and you'll get some really funny looks ... AndyG

Thats a really neat installation. Which winch have you got hidden in there? AndyG

Sorry Les. On a technical point I'd like to point out that both you and me replied at the very same instant (though I obviously started first!! ) so technically I wasn't pointing out an error but answering the query posted based on considerable stinky, ep90-fisted swivel seal replacement experience! And besides, this is a thread about swivels and I'm sure the term "grease" has been mentioned on several occasions without any "Oil you heretic!!!" noises emminating from stage left ... AndyG And whatever people think, it's obvious that lovely, shiney, chrome balls (full of oil) are sooooo much nicer ...

Should be put on with a wipe of grease to initially lube it against the ball and stop it tearing. If the ball was greasy you'll probably get away with it but remember in the future AndyG

I believe if you have proof of the age of the engine then the older of the emissions tests (engine v vehicle) is carried out - so a 1980 engine in a 1990 vehicle would be a 1980 test ... but you must have proof of age otherwise it's log-book age. AndyG

Diameters are the same front and rear. Rear standard is 150lb (green) and fronts are 133lb(red). On a RHD the springs are the same across the axle, on LHD they differ. The rears are nearly an inch longer. Try spinginfo for a quick reference. AndyG