davelr4x4

Usually all gears, but can often get into 4th and pull away (slowly!) then when rolling can change into 2nd. Oddly it was a bit better today. I really appreciate all the advice. I checked the clutch fluid and it was certainly very low so is now fully topped up. Dave.

It occurs to me that if the clutch drags you'd just get crunching noises wouldn't you? When stationary I can't get into gear no matter how hard I push the lever, but no crunching. Cheers, Dave.

Hmmm, interesting thanks Western. I put a new sender in at the same time so that's odd. With the 82 in it was bang in the middle most of the time, but rose alarmingly when worked hard. Any ideas? Regards, Dave.

I'll be there TJN! First time so looking forward to it. Regards, Dave.

Thanks Hugin, is there an easy way to check if it's disengaging? Regards, Dave.

I had similar overheating problems on my Defender and had many fins missing off the radiator. I ended up just putting a new radiator in. They're 99 quid on eBay and not too much trouble to fit. While doing the job I put in a new thermostat and noticed the one in it was 82 and the one I got from LR is 88. Sure enough the engine runs much hotter (needle just to left of the red) but stays rock solid at that temperature even when pushing it hard. I have wondered whether I should put the 82 back in to cool things down a bit, but I know the 200TDi does like to run quite hot. My viscous fan is not cutting in at all so I presume it must be OK. Just my 2 cents worth, Dave.

Hi all, I have an odd problem with my 1992 200TDi Defender 90 and would appreciate any sage advice. About 6000 miles ago I changed the engine oil and also did the transfer and main gearbox at the same time. EP80W-90 went in the transfer box and Comma AQF, an ATF which met the M2C33(sp?) standard that the Haynes manual quoted. All went fine, and gear changes were good. The very occasional crunch but then it's a Defender. When I took the main gearbox drain plug out there were a lot of bits of metal on the magnet but I wasn't too worried because I had no idea when the oil was last changed, if ever! 6000 miles later, last weekend in fact, I changed the engine oil again. While under it I thought I'd change the gearbox oil again, mainly to see if the magnet had attracted any more swarf. No major swarf so I was pleased about that, and I refilled with the same Comma AQF oil as before. Straight after the gears are crunching and grinding, feels like the synchro is not disengaging or something, and when stationary it's almost impossible to get it into gear. Same oil as before. It feels almost like the clutch is dragging but it seems too much of a coincidence for the clutch to be going at the same time as the oil change. I drove it for a few days and thought this is no good so after some Googling changed the gearbox oil for some Comma AQ3 which is their Dexron III rated oil. Exactly the same gearbox problems, in fact it now feels even worse. It's the LT77S gearbox on board. Any advice appreciated, I'm not sure where to go next? Regards, Dave.

Thanks for all the advice. I tried cutting a slot but no luck with the impact screwdriver. I hit is as hard as I dare. I have heated it with a blow torch and then was advised also to spray WD40 on afterwards and the shock will capillary some WD40 in. I have soaked it for a couple of days and I have bought some decent drill bits and have tried drilling it but the bits have cut in approx 4 mm but will not cut any further, almost like the bolt gets harder the farther I drill in. A bit odd, and not enough room to get the stud extractor in. I have now taken the advice of Western and have cut through the lower housing bolts to remove it completely. I will continue to try to drill it out now I can get it in the bench drill but it may be easier just to get a replacement housing. I have had no luck finding a price for one on the net, even though I've found the part number is ERR1499, so I guess it's a trip to T.H.White's in the morning to find out how much the housings cost. Cheers for all help, Dave.

Hi and thanks. I noticed that the lower part of the housing will come off, and indeed started to remove the bolts, but cannot get the bolts right out because of another item in the way which I presume is the timing cover or something similar. Is removing this a straightforward job? I would certainly prefer to get the offending thermostat housing off and into the pillar drill or indeed replaced completely. Thanks for the advice! Dave.

200 Tdi Defender engine, one of the thermostat housing bolts has snapped off. I have made numerous attempts to get it out but all has failed. There is only about 2mm sticking out of the bottom of the thermostat housing. Any ideas? Many thanks! Dave.