Paddy
-
Posts
314 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Paddy
-
-
15 hours ago, Retroanaconda said:
The only fixings I’ve pre-drilled are the ones where there’s a join on a batten and so I’ve only got half a batten width of cladding piece to screw through.
You could put a double batten to give a more secure end fixing of cladding.
-
This might help you, plus the links within the article https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/102833-door-leak/?tab=comments#comment-906013
-
As well as being mesmerising, what a great educational tool.
-
Something like THESE ??
I found them very good for draught proofing the top of a roller door as well.
-
This is bound to happen to me sooner or later so I’ll ask the daft question now... Is it practical to galvanise a new one.
Also bear in mind they can rust from the inside aswell.
-
Like you, the years limit me as to what spaces I can get into, but more importantly out of..
I thought the peen would be stronger so good to know bit of force is all that’s needed. Snaggers simple idea sounds easy, I haven’t looked yet but guess it would only need to be a couple of inches square. Adjust it from underneath and from above use the equivalent of a centre pop to make a peened indent.
Thanks guys. -
Serendipity, Just having the same issue, pumped some grease in which quietened it down for now.
How did you “unpeen” the indentation the first time you adjusted it? Did you have to remove the ball joint?
I like your idea and as mine needs adjusting it would be a good time copy your idea for the future, thanks..
-
Just some extra info. for you... https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/102716-rear-chassis-cross-member-replacement-from-where/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-929188
Cost for removing, welding in place, wiring, waxoiling inside and out €400
-
I took an interest in this thread knowing I needed to replace the rear x member. So an update in case it helps other searchers.
I ordered a heave duty galvanised one with extensions from DDSmetal. Ordered on a Tuesday and arrived at my home in Ireland on the Thursday. I’m not an expert or rivet counter but I thought it was good quality and finish. Neither am I up to this kind of welding, so took it to a fabrication shop. I picked her up today and well pleased with the end result. The welder didn’t have any problems with the fitting, everything lined up. Just a bit of faffing with cutting the chassis at the right point to fit the extension.-
2
-
-
Assuming you still have the “contaminated” fuel left in the 1st tank you could get Customs involved. I used to work at an oil refinery and you would be amazed at the power of custom when they think something is amiss with products from refinery to petrol pump. Protecting their revenue!
Maybe keep a sample then flush out your tank. Just in case of laundering you’ll be squeaky clean.
-
Just replaced mine, an hours job for both sides. If you take away labour cost I’d guess yours may have come out of a blue box which may determine their life expectancy.
-
21 hours ago, Red90 said:
You desperately need to start using a diesel fuel conditioner if your fuel is that bad. You should also run a strong biocide through the system to kill off the existing fungus.
Had the same problem with my sedimenter, looked like a black jellyfish. Posted on here and was suggested I tried Jeyes fluid which seems to work, small amount in the fuel tank on each filling. I noticed there are numerous commercial fuel biocides in motor shops.
-
-
1 hour ago, Mike110DT said:
Thanks Paddy....
Tried again a few times this morning and they confiirmed that no overseas supply 😞
how much was it approx for the DDS stuff? They look great
Emailed them for a price, just picked an item, (which might not be the best for me,) just to get an idea,
""We can export to Ireland.
The cost of the LR511G would be £130.00 (+ VAT if you don’t have an IE VAT no).
The shipping to Ireland would be in the region of £22.00.""
-
Just rang them, they are up and running. Maybe try again. I mentioned a guy from Germany was trying to get hold of them but he said they dont do overseas delivery ??
-
2 hours ago, roamingyak said:
Hi mate, no progress on this for me yet... hoping to do in in December...
Mine will be early next year so if you dont mind I'll bother you then to see how it went.
-
On 8/18/2018 at 2:33 PM, roamingyak said:
Thanks for all of the suggestions above. Dixon's seems like the best option from those listed, at least your dealing with the manufacturer etc.
Hi Roamingyak,
Did you settle for Dixons, how did it fit, was the courier service ok. Any general comments, as I too will need to replace this cross member and for it to be delivered via courier.
-
Thanks for the advice, Ashcroft do look like the sensible option.
-
Thanks for that, yes they are 24 spline. I didn’t realise that was the criteria for HD. You’ve simplified it, now its just finding a comprise on price to quality with original being nearly 10 fold the price of the cheapest, not that I’m going down that route.
-
Military 90, 1991 vin HA48####
Tried to find an axle number, left hand side above the horizontal weld, facing backward, just to the right of the rubber bump stop plate. Is that the right place, is it a tag or stamped into the casing? Scraped a lot of paint and under-seal off without finding it.
The shafts show wear so need replacements + drive members, the end of the shafts have HD stamped into them so I assume they are heavy duty being military. I’m thinking FRC8094 & FRC8095 but not sure without an axle #. Do I need HD drive member or standard ones?
Out of interest what makes them HD compared to standard? -
Finally sorted, things move slowly here. Took it to the Diesel Specialist who did the bearing/seal replacement and its come back spot on, no charge as under warranty from the repair. Couldn’t get past reception to find what had been done, fitter not available. The throttle stop adjustment which had been sealed with paint has been adjusted and repainted, the idol screw has been adjusted accordingly. I don’t know what if any internal work had been done.
I think it was basically as “monkie’s” problem/diagnosis.-
1
-
-
Thanks for that, garage is talking to diesel specialist so I await the outcome. If no joy then I'll try your suggestion.
-
Thanks Monkie. Problem started on collection of truck after repaired pump was installed with a new timing belt. Truck runs well apart from the high revs. The garage is trying to get hold of the diesel specialist mechanic for advice. If I get no joy I will drive it to the diesel specialist and have a face to face talk. If I don’t get any joy I’ll be fiddling with it, nothing to lose.
I follow what you did and will try that. Problem is the “bolt” on the throttle stop is already backed off and sealed with yellow paint, to back it off any more I will have to remove the lock nut to enable the bolt to be screwed further through the bracket and re-position the lock nut on the other side of the bracket to lock it. Not that its a problem, it just seems wrong when it ran like clockwork before going to the specialist.
When you had the problem can you remember if the idle revs increased appreciably as the engine went from cold to hot?
-
19 hours ago, supaimpy said:
air leak on the manifold would be my suggestion if it were a petrol , does a diesel react in the same way ?
Checked the manifold just in case but all looks well.
Front turret removal
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Serendipity, Just found a hole in one turret so looks like I’ll be following your lead and thread.