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eastw77

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Posts posted by eastw77

    Adding a 'cheapie' winch

    in International Forum

    Posted

    Hmmmm, i am starting to worry now (real worried) about that entire added-in 150 x 150 stepped box cross member. This has been welded into a cutdown (shortened) Rangie chassis. (The engine being moved to the rear meant the forward section of chassis where it originally 'lived' wasn't needed anymore).

    I'm wondering just how theoretical maximum loads from winching will be distributed and whether the entire 6mm thick 150mm x 150mm piece could ever effectively peal/break away from the chassis once the winch/recovering mounts are correctly made and correctly attached to this new cross-member.

    If the truck was a genuine competition winching truck it'd be a full review of the entire front cross-member (down to how it should be tied into the chassis) and i'd expect that Safety Scrutineers at any event would pick up on this very quickly and give me a short sharp shift). I've bought a machine full of someone else's 'designs' which has at least met the really stringent Complience Rules for low volume motor vehicles for New Zealand so it can at least be used on the highway.

    Thanks for everyone's input so far. As i've said, it all helps and i want to make certain what work i do is correct because one day the machine might belong to someone else and i don't them to have to mess around sorting other people's dangerous mistakes...

    I am not really understanding what you are worried about here. Are you worried that the cross member that you have welded the mountings for you winch is going to peel off?

    If you are don't worry as it isn't. The problems the other guys have been pointing out have all bee to to shear stresses where the welding is only at one end of the bracket and there could be lateral movement on the welds. As the cross member is welded at both ends the shear forces are low. Imagine if the cross member was only welded at one end, it would peel off pretty easily relatively speaking. But as it is welded at both ends it's good and strong!!

    Body Lift

    in Range Rover Forum

    Posted

    hi Ian,

    I forgot to mention the bumpers which are attached to the chassis, I fitted a winch bumper to the front using the bottom chassis mounting hole mated to the top chassis hole hole and cut a larger plate to extend the mtg to the bottom mounting hole and added extra bolting points. At the back I remade a new bumper from 5mm box section, ( a bit of overkill on thickness, but I just happened to have a piece lying around the right length)

    good luck,

    Les

    Thanks for all the advice Les. I'm away at sea at the minute so won't be attempting it for a wee while.

    Lots of time for planning!

    cheers,

    Ian

    Body Lift

    in Range Rover Forum

    Posted

    You will need extended gearbox and steering linkages, brake lines, fuel lines.

    Pete

    Gearbox should be OK as it's an auto. Why would I need to extend the fuel lines? I'm sure they run along the chassis.

    thanks,

    Ian

    Body Lift

    in Range Rover Forum

    Posted

    Yes this is my prefered route, having done this both ways. Two things to watch, any body to chassis/ engine/gearbox earth straps and the rubber gaitor fixed to the top of the transfer box and the transmission tunnel body, ( I made a new one from a lorry innertube),. You will also need to watch the auto gearbox oil cooler solid pipes, maybe drill some holes higher up and cut through to allow the pipes to be clear and not chaff. the radiator top fixing lugs will need to be moved down and redrilled, ( or contact wizard, he has some extension tubes to save moving the brackets).

    Where are you in the world? I shall be lifting the body on my rrc next week and can take some photos if that helps.

    Hi thanks for the info! A few points there I hadn't considered. I am originally from Northumberland but am living down in New Zealand now.

    If you could take some pics that would be great.

    Thanks again,

    Ian

    Body Lift

    in Range Rover Forum

    Posted

    Hi,

    It is a 1988 RRC and the tires I am looking to fit are 32" Simex Extreme Treckers. I have been offered a set cheap and can't afford a suspension lift right now. I will in about 3 months though so it would only be temporary. I have no problem with trimming the arches if need be.

    thanks,

    Ian

    1986 Range rover Vogue

    in Range Rover Forum

    Posted

    It Starts well. the no9 has been given the sack a while ago by the look of it.

    Just seams like its getting a bit much fuel....?

    Hi Where are you in NZ? I am in Napier and have a 1988 Rangie.

    The over fueling could also be being caused by a faulty coolant temperature sensor. If this little fella is goosed it will fool the ECU into thinking the engine is cold causing enrichment and over fueling at running temperature.

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