stumpy2268
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Posts posted by stumpy2268
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Oooh - prize, prize
:P Ask me another one....
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Hi HH,
Just a brief one, dates are 10 / 11 November for 7S with j33p
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Hi Weeble,
I can fully understand your anger at the poor conduct of said member, and it may strike a chord with him / her when they read your above post.
However, I am not sure that naming them will achieve a great deal, other than starting a name calling frenzy amongst those who wish to participate in such purile persuits.
It may well be worth a note of caution to the moderators however ?
It is rather a shame that forum members wish to behave like Ebayers, as I had hoped this forum was above that kind of behavior.
- [school teacher mode off ] Adrian.
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I can see that this body lifting is attracting a number of useful questions.
Wolfie, thanks for the perspective.
I had not considered the fuel filler, as my car being a bobtail, has a fuel tank in the boot. Thus all pipes will go up with the body, and the feed / return lines are not fixed into the floor. This is a useful point to consider for those of you reading this thread with the intension of lifting your car in the future.
Teslo, I will take some photos of the finished lifted vehicle when I get around to the project. I can give you details of parts used also.
My recommendation at this point would be to persue Bearmach, as their kit is tried and tested, by Jules at least
After this weekend at 7S, I think I may resort to the angle grinder on my rear doors before I kill my rear tyres
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Hallo,
i am thinking of putting body lift on my RRC. But i am not finally convinced if 1 or 2". I was trying to contact Bearmach about their 2" lift kit( without success yet). Please do you have any detailed pictures of this bodylift kit?
I guess this ^^ is aimed at you Jules, as my lift will be home grown, or more likely groan, looking at the work involved.
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Thanks for the useful info guys.
I must admit, I would have missed the seatbelt mounts, and wondered why the chassis was still lifting on the jack !!
Will keep you posted with progress, but I will not get into this project until after 7S. I have 'trimmed' the bottom of the rear doors as an interim measure to gain some rear end articulation.
Adrian.
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Having bought a new set of rubber mounts, nuts, bolts, washers etc to replace my perished / rusty examples, I also purchased a length of nylon / moly bar with which to make spacers. The nylon was machined on a lathe to 25mm thick, and suitable holes drilled in each.
Why am I doing this ? Because my tyres are too big for my rear doors, and I do not want to cut them about.
My question to those with experience or knowledge of lifting the body on Classics is, do I need to be modifying anything else before I go up in the world ? - steering linkage for example.
Whilst I realise that I am almost shutting the stable door, I do still have the horse
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Throw 'em away.
Bought and fitted some new ones when I renewed my swivels, have driven me bonkers ever since.
At the first sign of mud and water I spend the rest of the day braking and swerving around to try to stop the mechanical mayhem and squealing from the front end. Or was that a rambler ? Hmmm
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Zero Exhausts - off M20 J9 ( Ashford, Kent ) http://www.zeroexhausts.co.uk/
IIRC the guy to speak to is Keith. They will make whatever you want out of top grade stainless, not the scrap that some companies use. Keith will need the vehicle however, as the system he builds will be bespoke, and fit perfectly.
No, they are not cheap, but you will not need to buy another system as theirs do not rust away - 304 stainless.
No, I do not work for them either
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You could also use a filter from a R/C model engine.
Another solution, should you need to fit a filter - RS components part # 722-277 Pneumatic Exhaust Silencer.
Just a thought
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Drive to a reasonable sized field, engage low box, put the auto box in first.
Turn the steering to full lock and remove the ignition key, thus engaging the steering lock.
Climb out of the vehicle, and hey, a nice roundabout for the kiddies
:P -
Stumpy - it depends who you listen to and how seriously you take the whole thing, as I said in my post above. If you read the book to the letter and apply it strictly you'd be down the SVA station every time you did some spannering.
Corrode finger is right, technically mine and a lot of vehicles inc. all the bobtails & tax exempt coilers out there fall foul of SVA. But then if you want to be that sensitive about it, like I said almost no-one's truck would pass an SVA in the form they drive them around / use them off-road so where do you stop? On the flip side, there is a certain amount of modification / replacement allowed (as Nige found) so what counts and what doesn't? I suspect getting a solid answer from the DVLA / VOSA would be like talking to fog.
My personal opinion is that whether you have a ticket or not, if there's a problem you're going to be in just as much trouble either way. If someone from the government tells me to get an SVA, I will, until then I'm happy with my MOT cert and my insurance company are happy with all the mods.
The fact that so many trucks (and cars) are running round apparently in flagrant contravention of the C&U/SVA regs suggests to me that it's not a burning issue unless you're building something unrecognisable - for example bombing round in a Seven-style kit car which is still registered as a Sierra is likely to attract interest. Likewise tax exempt plates on a vehicle which is in suspiciously good nick. If technical breaches like bodykits, wheels & tyres, etc. were cause for concern / police interest then I would expect the Max Power lot to be getting a hard time over it as they tend to be the ones with very shakily executed mods (DIY spring chop anyone?) tearing round and crashing into things.
Fair comment Fridge.
Talking to fog
:hysterical: Thanks for the input.
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HFH posted on this a few weeks ago, its grey!!
Thanks for the comment, I will have a scan through some of the earlier threads.
I guess that I should therefore continue to avoid those other road users who are unable to spot a 7 foot high bright yellow Range Rover coming at them as they turn out of side roads.
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Please excuse my ignorance regarding the above topic, but where does all this leave bobtail Range Rovers / Discos ?
As the owner of 2 bobtail Range Rovers, neither of which have been inspected by anyone other than the MOT man each year, should I assume the worst if involved in an RTA ?
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You have my support Les.
I totally agree with the comments you have made regarding the reasons for this forums existance, and your reasons for banning those who abuse it.
LR4x4 has been, and will hopefully continue to be, an invaluable source of information to people like myself. - an incurable Land Rover nut.
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Concentrated Hydrochloric Acid spray nozzles built into the sun visors. These are linked to a 5 minute timer which activates via a pressure switch in the seat cushion.
Is this a little harsh ?
Not in comparison to being caught by me in the act of stealing the car
:angry: Serious mode on :-
Get a tracker fitted, then at least you will get the car back. In my experience, if they want to steal it, they will, no matter how much you spend on security.
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engage Joan Simms mode :
ooh, I seem to be a little plastered !
disengage Joan Simms mode.
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Do Jaffa Cakes have the same absorbant properties as Hob Nobs ? I can see my nice cuppa turning into some Chocca Moccachino thing with an orangy disc bobbing around in it. - no offence Mr Orange Sir
I think 16 metres of rope should be just about an adequate distance to be behind your mobile chip fryer
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Welcome to the forum Dom.
As you should by now be aware, all Landrovers mark their territory, hence the Range Rover droppings
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Are there any bits on your car that you can practice on, rather than starting out on mine??? GULP!!!Judging by the info on the project thus far, i'm not sure that there is a great deal of car left to practice on
I have some bits of metal you Mark can play with to get your hand in.
How about a convertable ?
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Thanks Al, very useful information.
To date my little 7cfm compressor has managed to keep up, but I tend to limit the cutting to relatively short runs.
I do have a compressor upgrade in the pipeline ( no pun intended ), as the little unit will not run my air tools.
Adrian.
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Mo,
Thanks for the info, I am too poor to afford such luxuries as QT radius arms
Or do what he said ^^^^
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Mark,
I would agree with Al.
We have had both types of plasma cutter at work. IMHO the press button start is the better one, and appears to give fewer problems with tips burning out. you will gain some experience of this type over the weekend
As far as costs are concerned, the portable one which we use cost just over £700. It will cut upto 6mm thich mild steel and stainless, so should tackle most Landrover stuff, unless you are building a bomb proof winch cradle
You will also need to budget for a small compressor, one of the £60 machine mart jobies would be more than ample.
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stumpy / pugwash thanks so mch for the help, if you could email or pm me with any info it would be great
michael 'at' motor-sport-support dot co dot uk
cheers
Michael,
Since yesterday's mail, it would appear that you have accumulated alot of positive info. If you still feel you need more, let me know and I will have a dig around at home for costs and route data.
Adrian.
:P 
- [school teacher mode off ] 
:hysterical: 
Are there any bits on your car that you can practice on, rather than starting out on mine???
Seven Sisters 9th/10th November
in Getting out and about
Posted
Yes of course, are you ?
:P