Keith FI90

Praise the Lord!! At least one bit's ok

Quite fancy one of these! http://www.gaugeplace.co.uk/zen/index.php?...products_id=161 Several others there too.

Hi Guys, Still trying to sort out the problem with lack of boost pressure on my uprated 300Tdi 90 but I finally got round to checking the timing. It was a little out (now corrected) and it seems to have improved matters (though I haven't yet had chance to see what the effect on boost pressure is). However I may now have another problem. Whilst I was rotating the engine using the crankshaft pulley to set the timing, I noticed that there is a fair amount of endfloat on the injector pump shaft. The nut on the end (and the shaft) could plainly be seen to move in & out a few thou' as the engine rotated. I'm not sure how much but it was certainly noticeable. Is this normal?? Seemed a bit odd to me given the tolerances that injector pumps work to. I have never seen this before. Has anyone else and is it likely to be causing a problem with fuelling?

EPC lists: ANR2003 up to 24G 10889A, and NTC9198 from 24G 10890A Main dealer prices £160-£170 If that's your only leak thats pretty good going!

I think that about sums it up. I don't think 1 or 3 can be the case though. Allards have sold thousands of these intercooler/uprated turbo combinations so it can't be an unsuitable turbo. Also, when I adjusted the actuator arm I did have the pull the rod to get the end back onto the pin on the wastegate lever (which was pretty difficult actually, given its location!). I have also tried a second actuator (just in case) It could also be an air inflow restriction by the snorkel (as suggested by Simon) or a fuelling problem (or even I suppose an injector pump problem). I'm just not sure where to go from here

It's never had the cambelt changed. It is only just over 3 years old and I've had the vehicle from new. However - I do have a snorkel fitted!! Mmmmm - I'll test it by disconnecting Cheers, Keith

I know it will be a bit lower (1-2PSI) measured from the inlet manifold but this is where a fitted boost gauge should connect (to measure the boost being received by the engine). However, if the actuator input feed pipe is disconnected (and the ends blocked), this should cause the gauge to go off the scale because there would be no wastegate bypass at all. In my case, when I tried this, I still couldn't get more than 15PSI. Cheers, Keith

ps. Lump Hammer 1 - Dislocation Cone 0

Of course I had the water ingress properties of the LR in mind when the headunit was selected. I chose one with plenty of holes in it so that the water could drain straight through! The salesman waffled on about heat dissipation (which was an unexpected but welcome bonus in the naturally aspirated environment of a typical 90). However, I was more concerned with being able to hear the damn thing occasionally. The real decision was of course made by SWMBO who liked the pretty colours, the cool way the front rotated when some button or other is pressed and and the flashy graphic display - Once again, compromise is the secret of happiness - everyone's a winner!

The phase 3 kit included an uprated turbo (and, I assume, actuator). As a test, I did run it with the actuator disconnected with the pipe blanked off but could get no more than 15PSI anyway. Cheers, Keith

Mmmm - I also thought that. That's why I've only been carrying out the adjustments suggested by Allards at this point. I have deliberately not gone for any of the more 'exotic' suggestions made by Marty at this stage in case it introduces further complications. I agree the boost pressure is low. Marty's standard 110 put out 16PSI with the same test rig last night. The problem is, where do I go from here? (By the way, I fitted a new manifold gasket when I swapped the turbo) Cheers, Keith

That's probably why Allards preferred me not to fit it (even though they supplied it). A needle valve didn't seem to me to be such a good idea anyway. I understand the intention but it seemed to me that a 'gate' rather than needle vent would be a better solution. If I understand it correctly your's works on the 'gate' principle. On the fuel front, I don't think that this is the problem. The only adjustment I have made is to rotate the diaphragm in the fuel pump about a quarter of a turn. (Oh, and a friend adjusted the 'star wheel' underneath the diaphragm to allow the boost to kick in a bit earlier - I think?) I get a bit of black smoke on hard acceleration plus a damn great puff on changedown at high revs. Ultimately that was the prompt for me to set the boost pressure. I thought I might be 'overfuelling' on occasions. Smoke free in normal driving though.

If you mean by air bleeding (venting) , not according to Allards. They supplied an adjustable air bleed valve but say that they would prefer me to adjust the actuator arm to increase the pressure at which the wastegate opens. It makes no difference to my problem really. I can't get above 15PSI without the actuator connected! Cheers, Keith

Hi all, A couple of weeks ago I fitted a full width intercooler and uprated turbo (Allards phase 3 upgrade) to my 90. I have adjusted the fuel pump as per instructions and am pleased with the power gain so far. Today I finally got round to setting the boost pressure as instructed. As anyone who has done this will know it is a fiddly job on a 300TDi, hence the reason for putting it off for a while. The maximum advised boost pressure in the documentation is 18.5 PSI so I shortened the wastegate actuator arm 3 or 4 turns from its factory setting and set out to road test it. The pressure gauge was fixed to the drilling at the rear of the inlet manifold and fed through the passenger window so that I could read it on the move. Unfortunately the maximum boost pressure I could manage even travelling up hill, flat stick was only 15PSI. No matter how I adjusted the actuator I could achieve no more boost pressure. I therefore removed the tube that connects the the wastegate actuator to the t-piece and plugged it to try to see if the actuator was faulty. No difference! There never seems to be enough boost pressure to open the actuator anyway. (by the way, the actuator also seemed fine when I connected it directly to a compressor to check its operation). I even tried a second pressure gauge in case the first was faulty I have checked and rechecked all the hoses and cannot identify any leaks. I have also pressure tested the intercooler and hoses (by means of an ingenious contraption involving a compressor and several parts of an old inner tube). It all seems fine - inflated it to 20PSI and pressure held. All I can think is that either the new turbo is faulty (not likely I wouldn't have thought) or the wastegate valve in the exhaust manifold itself is bust. Does anyone have any idea where I should go from here? I don't really want to replace the exhaust manifold without being pretty sure it's at fault. Cheers, Keith

A little bit perhaps. The turrets 'lean' slightly which meant that the shocker was misaligned before I swapped them over. They weren't backwards as such. I had the RH on the LH and vice versa. Spring fit is still bl**dy awful but the graunching sound is lessened a little now that everything has been rebuilt. Something must have moved a mill' or two. A carefully placed adjustment of the offending relocation cone with LR special tool no.1 will sort it now I think. Whatever is 'misplaced' on the chassis has obviously been like that since new so b****r it! It drives fine. Now why didn't I think of the radio! I did try shouting at the wife (since she was driving when it first started) but it only works for short spells. I've just fitted a topping panasonic head unit. (At least it sounds topping when its parked up!) Even controls the ipod. Bling or what!

Hi All, Thanks for all your help on this. I thought I'd give you an update. I took the afternoon off to have another look at this. I stripped all the front suspension off again. All the polybushes are fine and all the mountings are undamaged. (I did have the turrets on the wrong side though, which was straining the dampers somewhat). All put back together now and as far as I can see it looks just about the same. However there must have been a little movement since it seems not to scrape on potholes so its a little better. I also measured as many diagonals as I could think of and, within my measuring ability, everything seems square at the bottom end. Radius arms fronts to opposite rear drop arm mounts, etc, etc. It may not pass a laser test but nothing I measured was more than 5mm different. I am beginning to think that it might be the offside top spring seat that is too far back rather than the bottom spring seat being too far forward. I also examined the old turret/shock assembly that is still in one piece from when I replaced it. The shocker in that turret is offset at a significant angle (forwards) which would support the notion that it was like this before I did the suspension upgrade anyway. I think I may have to resort to bending in the back edge of the cone. Someone suggested shaving the rear radius arm polybush to pull the axle back but I think that would throw it off square. It drives ok (apart from the scrape) so I don't want to upset it.

Mmm - As I thought but I don't understand what could cause this to happen unless it was like this from new (ie the chassis mounts for the rear of the radius arms are incorrectly placed - are you listening Stephen?)

The springs are different on each side (all 4 are) so it would not sit true if they were swapped. Also, since rotating it makes no difference, I can't see that it can be the spring. I have also measured radius arms ams, spring mounts etc and they are identical as far as I can see.

Steers fine, centres ok and generally feels good. I don't see how the axle can be angled incorrectly though. I thought it was set by the radius arms (which have new polybushes fitted) Cheers, Keith

I know that SR are not everyone's favourite supplier from reading various posts but I have bought tons of stuff from them over the last few years and never had a problem. They may be pricey but when you live this far away you need to be able to rely on your suppliers. Anyway, down to business. I have tried a couple of washers under the front mounting hole on the spring seat but it made little if any difference. I don't really want to go any further down this route as the slope of the seat is similar on both sides now that I've had the opportunity to have a good measure up. I have attached some photos to see if anyone can glean anything from them. There are 3 from each side (firstly directly from each side, secondly of the dislocation cones themselves where you can see the effect of the binding on the passenger side and thirdly a little more from the front). It almost looks as if the axle is too far forward but I can't adjust that as it is obviously set by the length of the radius arms. BTW Rotating the springs made no difference. It still binds in the same place so I can't see that the spring is at fault. Any suggestions welcome! Cheers, Keith Drivers Side OK Passenger Side binding

Stephen! When I quickly read your reply I thought you were having a joke (ie "pop round after work") then I realised who you are. I don't think that the spring is at fault. No matter where I rotate the spring to it fouls in the same place (at the back of the dislocation cone). I also turned the spring seat through 180 degrees and it made no difference. It looks to my untrained eye as if the spring seat is not sitting where it should be. It seems to be sloping down at the front compared with the driver's side (so that the spring is tilted forward). I can't see any sign of damage so it may always have been like this but the impact was not noticeable until the cones were fitted. Perhaps the easiest answer is to put a few washers under the front mounting bolt for the spring seat. This was suggested on another forum (boo hiss!). Cheers, Keith

They cones may be stainless steel but they are coated with something (may be powder coating rather than paint). If I can't sort it by the weekend I'll post some pictures. I think the problem probably lies with the spring seat rather than the spring. SR have been helpful and are determined to sort it. I changed the rear trailing arms but not the front radius arms

Hi All, A couple of weeks ago I fitted a 2" lift kit and 'evolution' suspension upgrade from Scorpion Racing to my 90. All seemed to go well with the fitting but last weekend I took it off-road for the first time after fitting it (it will be used more off-road than on-road by the way as I live in the Falkland Islands and we regularly make a 60 mile each way trip off-road). On the way back a horrible grating sound could be heard from the suspension (on compression when traversing dips, etc). On investigation, I noticed that the rear of the front nearside spring was fouling on the rear of the dislocation cone - hence the grating noise. By the time I got back to Stanley the paint on the spring and the dislocation cone where it was fouling had obviously disappeared. To be fair to SR they are determined to solve the problem and will replace any parts that might be required but I am a long way from the UK and any replacement parts will take a few months to arrive. They suggested rotating the spring, which I did but it makes no difference - the spring is obviously straight. It is as if the spring, under compression is bent like a banana and so fouls the location cone at the top. Before I get back to SR, does anyone have any idea what could be causing this so I can discuss with some knowledge. The offside spring is fine. The spring sits central on the dislocation cone but the nearside fouls at its rear no matter what I do. Cheers, Keith