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V8 Freak

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V8 Freak last won the day on April 29

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About V8 Freak

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    More rum please......

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    Near Cambridge

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  • Interests
    Photography, Land Rovers, Computers

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  1. C'mon.... Apart from a little puncture we learned a lot that day.... Very capable beastie but not enough clearance on the angles.... I was impressed by it for the majority of the day !!! Is it about here I post the video of Ash wobbling his 110??
  2. I gave Rich a few of these stickers last week so he can monitor temps in his R380.....
  3. Looks like the Nakatenga one... https://www.nakatanenga.de/en/optional-equipment/exterior/spare-wheel-carriers/1999/nakatanenga-spare-wheel-carrier-defender-sw/ht
  4. There are lots of conspiracy theories on this and I've seen many people talk about cheap / carp Supermarket fuels.. All fuel in the UK needs to meet a minimum specification and the Supermarkets typically buy their fuel from the bigger refiners / brands. The only differences are likely to be any additives, which are typically cleaning agents (i.e. they do not aid combustion) so long term use of a high end brand fuel "may" result in a cleaner engine internally. That all said, I always use Supermarket fuel (Having bought fuel for a major supermarket in the UK in the past as one of my roles) and never had any issues.. When I use other brands while away from UK, or supermarkets I don't notice any perceptible difference in performance. A few years ago when I changed the head on my TD5 @150k ish miles the internals were in fine fettle, looking no worse than any other Diesels I've seen. I'm just wondering if your pump / setup is somehow optimised for Veg oil Rich, without you knowing how or why!!
  5. The flywheel to crank number offered does look incredibly low. I've found this online which may help you decide...
  6. @FridgeFreezer, Do you have a small action camera you can mount from the wing and then go for a slow drive with lots of turns involved? Would hopefully then see if the end of the CV is moving out on that side....
  7. Just had a look and they do look similar.... Like you say, some fab work to bring the location points out from the chassis rails but other than that connections wouldn't be too hard !
  8. The whole rusting vehicle or use the steering box as an alternative?
  9. Hi there... You don't say why you want to look at this.. Do you have a specific problem or just curious? If you are looking to check the timing on your TD5 engine, you will need timing pins (One for the flywheel - Fitted through the bellhousing and one that is fitted once the rocker cover is removed.) Timing pins like these.... Timing chains rarely wear on a TD5 as they are designed in such a way that it takes something like 26 revolutions for them to get back to their start position. You turn the engine and when the gap in the flywheel lines up with the hole in the bellhousing, screw in the bottom pin. Up top you will need to remove the acoustic cover (3 X 13 mm) and then the MAF to turbo pipework, including the pipe from the rocker cover. The rocker cover has 13 X 8 mm bolts. You will need a new rocker cover gasket ! (LVP000020) Once this is all off.. You will see the top of the timing chain at the front of the engine. Just behind it in the head is a little slot for the second timing pin. If it won't drop in, your timing is out. To adjust the timing you need to go in a little deeper. If you need to adjust, you need to remove the fan cover and viscous fan etc. You need to set the top pin first... So, remove to bottom one and turn the engine slowly unto the top pin drops in.... (if you are lucky, two bright links will be at the top of the timing chain.... Don't worry if they aren't... They may be several rotations off being at the top) There is a circular black plastic cover on the front of the cylinder head... Usually the cause of leaks... (Evidence below) When removed you may have a picture looking like this.... Top pin inserted, chain gear showing timing mark (Maybe two bright links), and the three bolts the hold the timing chain to the camshaft. You need to loosen these three bolts a tad..... Then get back under and rotate the engine the small amount needed (Hopefully small amount) to be able to screw the bottom pin in.. With both pins now inserted the engine timing is correct. Tighten one of the three bolts in the cam. Then remove the remaining two... Clean them thoroughly and apply a little loctite... Replace the two and tighten. Then remove the last one, clean and loctite etc. You should now be safe to remove both pins. Either fit a new front round black panel or clean really well and seal with good temperature tolerant sealant. While you are in there it's wise to replace the injector loom if it's not been done for a few years. (AMR6103) Loads of video's etc. online to help you there.... (Video that includes changing injector harness) Clean rocker cover and fit new gasket. It pays to add two small spots of sealant at the back where the semi-circular part lands on the head as those little corner sections that cup around the cam tend to leak. Tighten down all 13 bolts. Refit fan, fan cover, breather tube to top of engine and all the pipework you removed.... From airbox to turbo. Refit the acoustic cover. Fingers crossed, it will start..... (Just make sure you've removed the bottom pin !!)
  10. You may be right, but they may just be looking to cream off the top of the SUV market for great tarmac vehicles... Look how long the waiting list got got the Evoke... Over 6 months at some points... Something capable off-road in farmer spec isn't going to make them money.... They all run around on quads or in buggies these days...
  11. And it will sell in great numbers regardless of not meeting the buyers in whatever marketplace....
  12. I read somewhere that these aren't made new any longer ! When Mo needed one a while back he was told Britpart was the only official source as Adwest weren't selling to anyone else at the time... If you can get one, it may be Britpart, with Adwest on the stamp, but no telling what the final quality may be.... Paddocks are advertising new....
  13. James, I have a system from Griffin... (http://www.griffinperformance.co.uk/index.htm) Stainless with a custom exit from the rear box modelled on SteveG's old 90... Great fit and still looks great under the truck... James is a really nice guy and I felt happy to buy from his as he knew Rupert (Our resident mad farmer)... The site only mentions a 300 but I'm sure 200 is something that he will have a pattern for too... Mine was around £500 with straight through centre section in 2014.... I've since added another centre box from James as it droned on a bit once I went to auto.. (Sign of me getting old?) Pics when installed.... Taken last weekend....
  14. Oh no.. Not another Gender Fluidity anxiety attack I hope.....
  15. They were safely wedged in...... (No loctite)
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