[Simex Jungle trekker]

Im looking into possibly buying some bigger tyres for my 90, I dont really want to go up the extreme treker/Insa turbo route as Ive had a set of the insa copies and didnt much like them on the road. What are the jungle trekkers like on the road and how do they wear?

I dont use my landrover as an everyday car but still drive to play days ect.

Im currently running 265/75 16s I was planning on going up to 33x11.50 R16s I think 34x11.50 R16s might raise the gearing too much to be sensible?

Thanks

I run the 34x11.50x16 Jungle Trekkers on a set of Mach 5's with Staun internal beadlocks and don't find it to bad on the road, far to noisey to be an everyday driver but to and from play days is fine. Gearing is obviously raised but I wouldn't say its ever really caused me a problem. As for wear, they seem pretty good, however I try to keep road miles to an absolute minimum. Grip is pretty awesome, the only time I seem to get stuck is when the axle casing/diff is on the ground! Had a set of BFG mud terrains before these and the difference off road is enormus! I'd like some bigger ones to be honest!!

matt

[sorry another microcat question]

i've downloaded microcat from greenoval people. followed the instructions and chged the date and all that but all i get is a message saying microcat can not run in ms dos or windows programs. i know people must be getting fed up with people asking about micro cat but i need help.... please....

I've got a microcat starter application that I picked up somewhere along the way... seems to make mine work perfectly. The forum won't let me post that type of file but if you send me your e-mail address I'll send you the setup file B)

matt

[40mm2 cable that doesn't corrode so easily!]

Matthew has left Merlin, he's now importing fast speedboats.

John

.....and selling excellent quality products to 4x4 owners! B) The website will be sorted soon, been having a few issues with it But I have been supplying goods for some time already.

I can supply marine grade cable, all fittings and fixtures for it, but unfortunately it is not the cheapest of stuff these days! But it does last! It is also UV,chemical attack and rot proof, it will self-extinguish if it catches fire, can run at over 105 degrees C and is extremely flexible! (104mm sq cable will bend round the same radius as a small tea mug!!)

Obviously forum discounts available for anyone that contacts me via pm!

I look forward to helping out anyone whenever I can!

Matt

[Aggggggggggggg]

Two different animals, Matt. The Tdi is direct injection and should normally not need glowplugs, the Td is a swirl chamber diesel needing them to get going.

Quite right Lars...sorry missed the engine details in the first post, actually says its a 2.5na after re-reading.. i'll get back in my box....

[Defender Fuse Block Brackets.]

They're the same overall dimension and shape (like where the two bolts attach it to the bulkhead)

but i think you'll find the difference is the shape/size of the cut-out in the middle that holds the fuseblock itself.....

early 90/110 had the large glass fuse type holder, then 200tdi's had the blade fuse block (quite large, two rows of fuses)

my Td5 has 2 smaller blade type holders in a row.

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the reply, I assumed it must be something like that. I was planning on making a part to replace the original glass fuse holders with blade alternatives, but if there already available there would be little point!

Your TD5 with 2 smaller blade type holders, how many fuses will that hold? My solution should be able to take 16, 8 per row...2 more per row than my current glass fuse holder..

matt

[Aggggggggggggg]

My 200TDi hasn't used glow plugs for 3 years, still starts and runs perfectly..even in the middle of winter, so its unlikely that is the cause....

What the others have said about the battery connections is definitely worth checking out, I replaced my battery cables when I fitted my winches last year, when I was working on the electrics recently I was very surprised to find the earth connections have already begun to incur high resistance because of corrosion...not even 12months later. I took them off, gave them a good seeing to with a wire brush and they are good as new now, never underestimate the problems relating to poor earth connections! The problem of poor earth connections will be more prevalent during colder temperatures; more power needed to start cold engine, more current through earth connections etc etc...

matt

[Defender Fuse Block Brackets.]

Hi..can anyone tell me the difference between the following part numbers? I understand they will be for different chassis numbers, but are they all the same shape? same fittings etc?

PRC2443

PRC8072

AMR3138

YQU104850

YQU000200

Number 22 on this pic;

(fingers crossed hoping westerns logged on!)

Many Thanks,

Matt

[Heavy Duty Inner Tubes]

Matt,

Don't be a tart, skin the back of your hands with the Staun's, and get em fitted.

Staun's are not "pretty difficult to fit", they're effin difficult to fit, I did 5 in a day on a tyre machine and suffered with sore handies for a couple of days.

Best of luck

Hi Boothy,

Your definitely right there! we started with 4 tubes, managed to get 2 wheels fully built up, but the other 2 tubes we pinched and they then burst upon inflation! These beadlocks (as you know i'm sure) are fantastic when they are up and running, but my god are the a pain to put together!!!!

My hands have until saturday to recover!

matt

[Heavy Duty Inner Tubes]

For Staun innertubes speak to Paul at Challenger 4x4 he did mine a treat for me,

I cannot see how a Staun and a seperate innertube can work together, beside the chaffing why would you want a tube when you've got a beadlock?

Landranger services (who advertise) managed to get me a set of thick Landrover'ish tubes for a reasonable price, but a good mate told me he had previously bought some from a tyre specialist at £25 a go. not so cheap!

Thanks for the comments, I'll try challenger again, tried them before but they didn't keep them in stock.

Just to be clear, I don't want to run stauns AND tubes in the simex's - stauns are pretty difficult to fit without pinching the tubes, so I wanted some large tubes as a back up for the weekend encase I can't get the stauns set up properley.

matt

[Heavy Duty Inner Tubes]

Hi Gents,

Nige, thanks for the sizes!

Smo, the Staun Beadlocks use a 155/165-14 tube to lock the beads onto the rim, then you don't use a tube in the normal tyre. see below... (how is the D-Lander coming on??)

matt

[Heavy Duty Inner Tubes]

Hi All,

Anyone know a good supplier of heavy duty inner tubes?

I need some 155/165-14 tubes for staun beadlocks, and as a back up I need some tubes for a set of 34x1050x16 Simex Jungle Trekkers, but don't know what size these need to be?

Thanks,

matt

[Mr Tidbury ... intends to quit smoking.]

Peter Tidbury had just filled his Peugeot 607 with 40 litres of gas at a service station and was driving at around 30mph.

He could smell gas in the car and passed it off as remnants from the petrol station, but it was in fact a cloud of fuel in the cabin.

Mr Tidbury decided to smoke a cigarette and the second he ignited the lighter, its flame sparked a fireball.

The windows were blown out and the bonnet and boot were thrown open by the force of the blast.

Surely he would have thought it a bad idea to smoke a cigarette when he could smell gas in the cabin? regardless of thinking it could be remnants from the petrol station - the gas is still there!?

matt

[A bit of advice, EGT gauges]

Thanks for the replies chaps, unfortunately I have just been told the gauge i've ordered is no longer available

back to the internet....

Thanks,

Matt

[A bit of advice, EGT gauges]

Sorry for the hi-jack...

What is the maximum EGT you should see on a 200TDi? (running a 300TDi turbo)

I am going to change the exhaust soon, does the diameter of the exhaust have an effect on usual/max EGT?

- what size exhaust would be best? I'm planning on only having a mid box, and a replacment pipe for it that I can use when not motorway driving!

Thanks,

Matt

[Steering Box Promblem?]

Things have got much worse since my first post, this afternoon my PAS pump has failed which isn't a major issue,steering is understandably heavy when moving at low speed, but it is also extremly heavy when moving at speed. If turning the steering wheel any further than the 2 oclock position it is almost impossible to turn!

Is it sounding like a box failure aswel?

If so, what is the strongest option for replacement?

Also, I've been through a few to many pumps already, what's the best pump to replace the standard? (I intend on having a hydro-assist setup in the future so a compatable pump and box would be nice, but need to get some steering sorted before my MOT expires on the 30th!)

Thanks again,

Matt

[Steering Box Promblem?]

Hi all,

What does it feel like when your steering box is beginning to fail?

For some time now I've been able to feel a fair amount of play when going over things like tree routes proud of the tarmac, and this morning when taking a left hand corner; with the wheel held in the same place throughout the corner it felt like the wheels were still moving slightly because of some play in the steering system. About a year ago I replaced all ball joints and UJ's. I suspect the steering box because I have always had minor issues with the steering and when trying to adjust the play in the box it would appear at maximum adjustment already (Or incredibly tight!) I would imagine the steering box to be the original from 1986, fitted to a 90.

Thanks for any help,

Matt

[High Output Alternator 200TDI]

I've got a 150amp alternator to fit to my 200TDi, haven't installed it yet, should be a bolt for bolt replacement but needed a slightly curved adjustment bar (and oviously increase cable size to suit)

http://balmar.net/Page6-6seriesalts.html

The model i've got is the 60 series (twin foot) but there's loads of different case designs available - i'm yet to find an engine I can't fit one to!!

P.s. i used to work for the UK importers so if anyone needs any help let me know...might also be able to get one a little cheaper than retail

Matt

[Exhaust Exit position - Pics thoughts please]

HFH..what engine are you running? I have much the same problem and am going to relocate the exhaust but don't know the maximum/optimum diameter pipe to use? I'm running a standard 200TDi which will get some mild tuning in time. I plan to replace the exhaust all the way through..

regarding your question on legality...a friend of mine runs his exhaust just behind the passenger door, to make it worse he's got all the boxes removed!! Past the MOT fine, but it is rather noisy....in fact it sounds like a tank! ...not so good for the daily driver...

Matt

[changing water pump 200TDI]

I did exactly the same about a year ago, I snapped one bolt, the previous owner had already snapped another, and the last one was so tight nothing would shift it. We tried everything, stud extractors/eazy-outs/heating the block and freezing the bolt/shocking the thread/welding a bar on and nothing would shift it.

In the end we had to cut the remaining part of the stud off and drill all three out, then heli coil them. You need to be very careful when drilling them out, the combination of steel bolt and an ally block makes it very hard to drill the bolt out without damaging the block! Heli-coiling was a great solution because now, rather than having a steel bolt into an ally thread (which causes a reaction, greatly accellerated by the presence of water!) I've got a steel bolt into a stainless steel thread! Hopefully meaning it'll never happen again!!!

Hope this helps,

Matt

[Extended arches and wheel spacers]

Been running 30mm spacers for the last 2 years on a disco with no problems, replaced 1 wheel bearing in that time but I expect this is down to normal wear.... Ran big offset rims on my 90 for years and never had to replace a wheel bearing....??? Hope this helps....

Dan

Hi Dan,

Thanks very much for the info. The truck in your profile pic's looking pretty mean!!

Matt.

[Extended arches and wheel spacers]

It seems to me that you're going out of your way to create a problem for yourself ?

You have the arches, but you say yourself you don't need them - so why not leave well alone and stick the arches on ebay etc ?

Makes it easier to get through the tight gaps in the trees as well

Oh but that would just be simple! I don't think anyone makes ear defenders powerful enough to save me from the ear-ache i'm going to get from SWMBO if those arches don't end up on the truck!!!

Plus I would like to widen the track a little to help a) claw back a bit of steering lock, B) help with on-road stability, c) everyone with the same track width chews up the same bit of ground everytime they go up/down, surely having a different track will be useful? It certainly seems useful to all those little zooki's....... I've not come across to many situations when both my front and left tyres are tight against trees.

Thanks,

Matt

[Extended arches and wheel spacers]

Not my forte, but isn't the point of wider wheel arches so tyres can tuck up under them during axle articulation without touching? As with regular arches the tyre would crush them. And wheel spacers are used to keep wide tyres off the wheel well while turning? So no rubbing on full turn = no need for wheel spacers?

Thanks for the input, I'm currently running those tyre sizes with standard unmodified arches and no wheel spacers, and they don't rub under articulation or turning (I've had to adjust the steering stops a little)

As the arch will be about 40-50mm wider than the standard, I would like to push the wheel out by roughly the same amount, giving the same arch/tyre relationship as before.

Unless i've missed something?

Thanks,

Matt

[Extended arches and wheel spacers]

Hi All,

About a year ago my girlfriend bought me some extended wheel arches...I'm now beginning to get earache because they are still sat in the garage and not on the truck!

Looking at the D44 website it would appear they are the same as fitted to the 110 Trayback;

To fill these wider arches I'm clearly going to need some spacers, searching around i've found many 30mm versions, a few 40mm and a set of 55mm. I'm guessing i'll need roughly a 40-50mm addition to the track (per side) to keep the edge of the tyre in line with the edge of the arch. (I'll fit the arches first and work it out exactly before ordering!)

I've heard many different stories regarding wheel spacers, some say "don't fit them, you'll be going through wheel bearings as fast as you can replace them" others have said they've "not noticed any difference in the wear rate of the wheel bearings."

So...who's running spacers and how do you get on with them?

Is anyone running 50mm+ spacers?

I don't mind replacing wheel bearings every now and again, but I don't want to be doing it every month!! The vehicle is used on the road probably every other day. I've got a set of 33x1250x15 AT's on modulars for the road, and a set of 34x1050x16 jungle trekkers on mach 5's with (staun) beadlocks for the muddy stuff!

Any help greatly received!

Thanks,

Matt

[Update for members only]

Beans added! I've been meaning to give something back for ages now, hopefully these financial updates from Tony will serve, not to put people off donating because they think there is enough money in the pot, but to remind people to keep on donating so we can keep this invaluable service going!!!!

I know over the time i've been using the site, the advice from many has helped me save £££'s when working on/modifying/using my 90, so why shouldn't we give some of that back!!

Thanks again to everyone who has helped me out in the past!

Matt.

[Ignition Barrel Wiring]

Thanks (once again) Western! Very useful info as usual!

Matt

have a look here