sandythelandy

Just my 0.02c but it may be worth looking at the switch itself and or ground leads, grounding problems are common in defenders.

Ok, I've pinned it! there's a small kink in one of the return lines that was causing some air to get in the system, I'm also not sure if the excess pressure f*cked the pump but I'll have to order one as soon as I can. Thanks to all for your help! If ever in Barbados I'll buy ya a beer!

Ok, I've pinned it! there's a small kink in one of the return lines that was causing some air to get in the system, I'm also not sure if the excess pressure f*cked the pump but I'll have to order one as soon as I can. Thanks to all for your help! If ever in Barbados I'll buy ya a beer!

Lol, thanks Sean, the starter's sorted now, I had borrowed another CPS to see if mine was duff, but it didn't work either, so I guess not. I'm on to the fuel lines after dinner!

Thanks Sean, Both you and Tanuki have sound logic. For the past 2 years It's always been the same before with mine It would always start immediately without a hint of delay. fuel pump sounds good. filter is new it's cranking fine, there's just no fire.

Hi Tanuki, Thanks for that. Ambient temperature is around 29-30 deg Celsius so I think I may be able to rule out glow plug non-ignition being an issue. The fuel pump was making a bit more noise than usual, but, I changed the fuel filter and it now sounds normal. My tank however sits a bit higher than usual and I'm now suspecting if the inclination of the lines is causing air to get trapped, but, it seems really strange as it has been that way for at least a few weeks now and the problem never manifested before. Since the first post I've put my mechanic's stethoscope on the tank/pump head and the hum was solid. When I used it to listen at the fuel filter and regulator it sounds a little gurgly (unable to be heard without the stethoscope) but I have no idea if this is normal or what. I'll pull the pump later to check to make sure there's no blockages. Any suggestions/help/opinions appreciated as I'm really stumped on this one and it's very frustrating. :/

Hello again guys! I've been having a major starting issue with my td5 and I put a meter on the glow plug leads to check for voltage and it's giving me 0.00. I've checked the power wires for continuity and they're all good. I've also checked the fuse and relays and they're all working as they should. Any suggestions as to whether I should check existing grounds or just buy a massive cable and bolt it to the block? or am I majorly overlooking something? Thanks!

Many, many thanks for the responses so far guys. Oap, I think you're right the starter taps stopped the intermittent cycling. JCC I'm in the process of checking all the lines/ regulators and filters. I've bought a meter and I seem to have no current at the glow plugs so I may start a seperate thread to discuss it. But I will update in this thread also to let you guys know what the problem was/is.

Hello all!, So I've got a 2001 td5 hi-cap defender with no previous history of hard starts, manual, a recently wired in piggyback fuel controller. The chassis has been bobtailed, therefore the standard fuel tank is mounted in a higher position than normal, i.e. sitting on the chassis directly behind the cab, the lines are standard and look a bit of a dog's dinner right now. Now, before I jump to your answers of 'why' let me state the 'how'. I've had the piggyback installed for a few weeks now and the td5 hasn't skipped a beat until now. I was driving merrily along and coming into traffic I managed to stall it (It was the new master and slave cylinder's fault, I swear). Then it refused to start again. So I got out to check and I realise that the fuel pump sounds quite noisy, so I go through the bleed process, and it still doesn't start (cranking but no catch). I get a tow home and when I arrive I remove the battery to give it a nice charge. After it's done I try to start it again, it has always started almost immediately, but this time a lengthy crank period, 2-5 secs, it catches and I reverse it properly into my drive. I leave it idling or a few minutes and then shut it down. When I returned later in the day it cranks but no start again all lights come on in the dash like normal, but no dice :S. long story short, since then I've 1) Broke the bank and bought a new battery 2) Checked the glow plug relay, main relay and all fuses 3) Tried a second ECU 4) Beat the living daylights out of my pump 5) Doped the intake with a drop of gas 6) Fiddled with all relays and swapped postions of the same type 7) Checked all fuses none of those worked, however, now I've been messing with the relays the starter does this strange flutter-start mixed with a clackity-clack sound and doesn't want to start and/or I turn the key to 'start' and nothing happens (including no orange lights on the dash), which leaves me now wondering: Have I knackered my starter? Does it sound relay related? what can I do next? Any suggestions/theories are welcome and I can provide photos if needed. Sorry If I've rambled a bit I've had a long day fighting with this

Lol, thanks anyway Fridge. Can't say mine's any better. Thanks Dave, maybe I'm reading the pinout numbers the wrong way:/. I'll see if I can get a photo up later today to make sure I've got the right pin first.

Hi All! I'm experimenting a bit with my defender (2002) and I've got 2 wiring questions. I managed to get my hands on a cheap fuel controller and I've got it all wired in except for the rpm signal wire. Now I know the standard Td5 rpm gauge is wired into the black plug on pin 19 (white and slate stripe). The wiring manual says this is the signal input from the 2nd Throttle position sensor which produces (If i'm understanding correctly) a reducing voltage inversely proportional to pedal travel. So, my question is: How does the factory tach convert this to an accurate rpm display? especially since pedal travel does not always have a consistent relationship with rpm? My next question may possibly have a really simple answer but I'm possibly too dull to figure it out. I took the risk and wired it into the Crank sensor (+ve) feed. It worked, but the rpm readout is telling me I'm idling at just under 5000rpm. I wasn't aware that LR made F1 diesels, so i'll chalk it up to the 5x Crank sensor pickup holes on the flywheel.: Where can I wire the rpm signal wire into that will give me a voltage reading between about 4-8V in the correct pulses/rev? I had a brainfart and tried to use an injector output wire, but that didn't work either for some strange reason. (about 2500 rpm at idle) Any suggestions/ answers? I'm stumped!