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  1. Have you pulled the solenoid wires as far out of the protective sleeve as you can to check for hardening/cracks? Our 2001 freelander has hard and brittle plastic on the solenoid wires about an inch into the protective sleeve. Roughly where the white arrow is here. edit: it's pointing at the sleeve behind the exposed wires. I suppose you could be just on the edge of the turbo vanes sticking. You have enough carbon build up to catch the vanes, but not enough to hold them?
  2. Two faults. This new to us freelander was a basket case that was cheap for a reason P1270 was the first fault I went chasing down. It was a dodgy wire to the crank sensor. As far as I have determined P1470 can only be one from of these sources: Turbo solenoid Turbo itself Vacuum pipework MAP sensor ECU Wiring from either MAP or turbo solenoid Intermittent P1470 would lead me to check wiring just before the solenoid plug for fatigue, and the vacuum lines to the EGR and the one over the engine to the turbo solenoid. HTH
  3. Our original freelander has two identical steel slide pins on the front caliper, and the both move freely without drag. The newer 2005 freelander has a smaller lower slide pin with a rubber bush part way down it. I'm refitting the front brakes with new pads, calipers and pins. The new pins are TRW and the bores in the cradle are very clean, shiny metal. The lower pins have drag that bothers me. The rubber bush is dragging in the cradle bore. The pin is free to move in and out, but I don't like that drag. Is there supposed to be drag on the lower pin? If so how much? I'm tempted
  4. This is finally sorted. I tried another ECU - same problem. Checked everything over again but still found nothing wrong. So pulled the turbo again - eventually found the problem. Nozzle ring on the salvage turbo wasn't correctly oriented. I put it back as I found it Refitted correctly and it's running fine. To save anyone else the hassle, when I've finished the last few jobs i'll layout the original turbo bits and take a couple of pictures showing good and bad orientations.
  5. And no, the over boost is still occurring. I am now stumped. Current vacuum pipes are all sound and hold a good vacuum. (EGR vacuum port blanked) Vent pipe from turbo solenoid to inline filter is clear and new filter fitted. Engine vacuum pump is healthy. over 27 inHg at idle. Testing the turbo actuation with a vacuum pump and gauge checks out. Activation starts at about 4 inHg hits the end stop at about 19 inHg. New, genuine, turbo solenoid fitted. Pin 1 wiring from turbo solenoid plug C1611 to ECU C0606 pin 23 checked < 1 ohm. Pin 2 on turbo solenoid pl
  6. My sentiments entirely. Only brake lines and strut top bearings left to resolve Time for some celebratory beers I think.
  7. Took a chance that the fitting was compression and reusable, and removed it from the slave. The tangs are on a strip that is inserted into a groove in the barrel. A bit of fiddling with picks and it came out. The tangs didn't appear to be protruding enough, so adjusted them to what I think is a sensible angle and took a couple of pictures to help anyone else who comes across this problem. Going to refit now and see how it goes.
  8. You're correct. Picture 1 is the resting state after it has just leapt out. When it is fully inserted there is probably a third of the white plastic collar showing. It matches our other freelander visually when it is engaged.
  9. I'll grab a picture tomorrow and post. The master has a male fitting with a securing lip around it: The slave end has a barrel to accept the male. Inside the barrel is a ring of small tangs pointing inward that should grab the male lip when inserted. There is a plastic collar (not shown on the above picture) around the top of the male that is pressed down in to the connector to hold the tangs aside when disconnecting. It "should" just push in and lock until the plastic collar is used to disconnect it. This particular union takes but a small wiggle for the thing
  10. If it's not one thing it's another. Finished putting everything together after sorting out the turbo ready for test drive. Wiggle gear lever to make sure it's in neutral. Hand on key ready to start. Depress clutch pedal and there's a thump and the peddle hits the floor. Lift peddle up with foot and try to depress again and it's solid. Quick look under the bonnet and I see the push fit connection between the master and slave has popped out. Reconnect, depress peddle, thump, peddle to floor, lift and solid, check under bonnet.. Rinse and repeat. Both sides of the connector look fi
  11. Unbolting the metal turbo outlet pipe from the back of the engine allows room to get your hand in and manipulate the heat shield into place. It took longer to get this shield in place than it did to refit the turbo
  12. I've just refitted the turbo on one of our TD4s and i'm trying to refit the heat shield that sits under the air filter box with no success at all. I have the heat shield in place under the air filter box but I can't work out how to get the front clip in place so that the rear clip engages. It's item 7 in the diagram below. Anyone know the secret?
  13. I have finally got around to pulling the turbo on this freelander. Short story is that the vnt vanes had seized solid and the ring that moves the vanes had worn enough to allow the actuator to move but no adjustment was taking place. I've stripped the turbo and replaced the worn bits from a salvage turbo, freed off the vanes and given everything a good clean. I expect that's the over boost problem solved.
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