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gadget

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  1. Spot the difference? All makes PR2 = britpart standard
  2. I did consider sending it back, but... I'd already started taking things apart and didn't want to leave things drained for too long. There are no markings or part numbers stamped into the plastic housing either. I won't be paying extra for a "genuine" part next time if I can't identify the maker.
  3. Finally got to replacing the thermostat on the TD4. Not the most fun job I've undertaken. Engine comes up to temp quickly now and the heater is toasty. Picked up the replacement from island-4x4.co.uk and paid for the "genuine" PEL100570LG part. The "genuine" part arrived in an allmakes pr2 box and has no markings other than the 88C. Make your own mind up as to genuineness if you're looking for one.
  4. Did another 25 mile round trip with spirited driving and I'd estimate the top hose temperature to be around the 38-40C area. Temperature needle still reading about a quarter of it's range. The coolant system isn't hot enough to pressurise, pipes are still easily squashed. I didn't drive our other Freelander that often, but I don't recall being able to drop the engine temperature by turning cabin heat on full. This more than anything else makes me think it's broken.
  5. With the restrictions slowly being lifted the need for a road legal car is nigh. I've finished off the necessary jobs and have a new MOT. Took it out for a shake down and all is well except things are not as warm as they should be. I'm pretty sure I need to replace the thermostat on our 2005 TD4, but want to run the symptoms past y'all before I commit. The temperature gauge barely reaches 1/4 travel, even after a decent run. Heater is blowing warm-ish air, but might as well not be doing anything. Coolant is new and has been bled. Running the engine from cold the top radiator hose is the first to show signs of heat. The reservoir starts to get warm via a small flow from the tiny feed pipe. VERY slowly the radiator starts to warm from top down. After 20 ish minutes I can detect heat in the lower radiator hose. During the warm up the heater matrix in and out pipes warm at roughly the same level. Switch on the blower with heat set to full drops the temperature gauge pretty quickly. Thermostat or something else?
  6. Have you pulled the solenoid wires as far out of the protective sleeve as you can to check for hardening/cracks? Our 2001 freelander has hard and brittle plastic on the solenoid wires about an inch into the protective sleeve. Roughly where the white arrow is here. edit: it's pointing at the sleeve behind the exposed wires. I suppose you could be just on the edge of the turbo vanes sticking. You have enough carbon build up to catch the vanes, but not enough to hold them?
  7. Two faults. This new to us freelander was a basket case that was cheap for a reason P1270 was the first fault I went chasing down. It was a dodgy wire to the crank sensor. As far as I have determined P1470 can only be one from of these sources: Turbo solenoid Turbo itself Vacuum pipework MAP sensor ECU Wiring from either MAP or turbo solenoid Intermittent P1470 would lead me to check wiring just before the solenoid plug for fatigue, and the vacuum lines to the EGR and the one over the engine to the turbo solenoid. HTH
  8. Our original freelander has two identical steel slide pins on the front caliper, and the both move freely without drag. The newer 2005 freelander has a smaller lower slide pin with a rubber bush part way down it. I'm refitting the front brakes with new pads, calipers and pins. The new pins are TRW and the bores in the cradle are very clean, shiny metal. The lower pins have drag that bothers me. The rubber bush is dragging in the cradle bore. The pin is free to move in and out, but I don't like that drag. Is there supposed to be drag on the lower pin? If so how much? I'm tempted to reuse the old upper slide pins in the lower position and lose the anti rattle *upgrade*
  9. This is finally sorted. I tried another ECU - same problem. Checked everything over again but still found nothing wrong. So pulled the turbo again - eventually found the problem. Nozzle ring on the salvage turbo wasn't correctly oriented. I put it back as I found it Refitted correctly and it's running fine. To save anyone else the hassle, when I've finished the last few jobs i'll layout the original turbo bits and take a couple of pictures showing good and bad orientations.
  10. And no, the over boost is still occurring. I am now stumped. Current vacuum pipes are all sound and hold a good vacuum. (EGR vacuum port blanked) Vent pipe from turbo solenoid to inline filter is clear and new filter fitted. Engine vacuum pump is healthy. over 27 inHg at idle. Testing the turbo actuation with a vacuum pump and gauge checks out. Activation starts at about 4 inHg hits the end stop at about 19 inHg. New, genuine, turbo solenoid fitted. Pin 1 wiring from turbo solenoid plug C1611 to ECU C0606 pin 23 checked < 1 ohm. Pin 2 on turbo solenoid plug C1611 has 14V. Any suggestions of what else to test? The only thing I can think of now is that this ECU has had its boost map fiddled with.
  11. My sentiments entirely. Only brake lines and strut top bearings left to resolve Time for some celebratory beers I think.
  12. Took a chance that the fitting was compression and reusable, and removed it from the slave. The tangs are on a strip that is inserted into a groove in the barrel. A bit of fiddling with picks and it came out. The tangs didn't appear to be protruding enough, so adjusted them to what I think is a sensible angle and took a couple of pictures to help anyone else who comes across this problem. Going to refit now and see how it goes.
  13. You're correct. Picture 1 is the resting state after it has just leapt out. When it is fully inserted there is probably a third of the white plastic collar showing. It matches our other freelander visually when it is engaged.
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