gadget

Spot the difference? All makes PR2 = britpart standard

I did consider sending it back, but... I'd already started taking things apart and didn't want to leave things drained for too long. There are no markings or part numbers stamped into the plastic housing either. I won't be paying extra for a "genuine" part next time if I can't identify the maker.

Finally got to replacing the thermostat on the TD4. Not the most fun job I've undertaken. Engine comes up to temp quickly now and the heater is toasty. Picked up the replacement from island-4x4.co.uk and paid for the "genuine" PEL100570LG part. The "genuine" part arrived in an allmakes pr2 box and has no markings other than the 88C. Make your own mind up as to genuineness if you're looking for one.

Did another 25 mile round trip with spirited driving and I'd estimate the top hose temperature to be around the 38-40C area. Temperature needle still reading about a quarter of it's range. The coolant system isn't hot enough to pressurise, pipes are still easily squashed. I didn't drive our other Freelander that often, but I don't recall being able to drop the engine temperature by turning cabin heat on full. This more than anything else makes me think it's broken.

With the restrictions slowly being lifted the need for a road legal car is nigh. I've finished off the necessary jobs and have a new MOT. Took it out for a shake down and all is well except things are not as warm as they should be. I'm pretty sure I need to replace the thermostat on our 2005 TD4, but want to run the symptoms past y'all before I commit. The temperature gauge barely reaches 1/4 travel, even after a decent run. Heater is blowing warm-ish air, but might as well not be doing anything. Coolant is new and has been bled. Running the engine from cold the top radiator hose is the first to show signs of heat. The reservoir starts to get warm via a small flow from the tiny feed pipe. VERY slowly the radiator starts to warm from top down. After 20 ish minutes I can detect heat in the lower radiator hose. During the warm up the heater matrix in and out pipes warm at roughly the same level. Switch on the blower with heat set to full drops the temperature gauge pretty quickly. Thermostat or something else?

Have you pulled the solenoid wires as far out of the protective sleeve as you can to check for hardening/cracks? Our 2001 freelander has hard and brittle plastic on the solenoid wires about an inch into the protective sleeve. Roughly where the white arrow is here. edit: it's pointing at the sleeve behind the exposed wires. I suppose you could be just on the edge of the turbo vanes sticking. You have enough carbon build up to catch the vanes, but not enough to hold them?

Two faults. This new to us freelander was a basket case that was cheap for a reason P1270 was the first fault I went chasing down. It was a dodgy wire to the crank sensor. As far as I have determined P1470 can only be one from of these sources: Turbo solenoid Turbo itself Vacuum pipework MAP sensor ECU Wiring from either MAP or turbo solenoid Intermittent P1470 would lead me to check wiring just before the solenoid plug for fatigue, and the vacuum lines to the EGR and the one over the engine to the turbo solenoid. HTH

Our original freelander has two identical steel slide pins on the front caliper, and the both move freely without drag. The newer 2005 freelander has a smaller lower slide pin with a rubber bush part way down it. I'm refitting the front brakes with new pads, calipers and pins. The new pins are TRW and the bores in the cradle are very clean, shiny metal. The lower pins have drag that bothers me. The rubber bush is dragging in the cradle bore. The pin is free to move in and out, but I don't like that drag. Is there supposed to be drag on the lower pin? If so how much? I'm tempted to reuse the old upper slide pins in the lower position and lose the anti rattle *upgrade*

This is finally sorted. I tried another ECU - same problem. Checked everything over again but still found nothing wrong. So pulled the turbo again - eventually found the problem. Nozzle ring on the salvage turbo wasn't correctly oriented. I put it back as I found it Refitted correctly and it's running fine. To save anyone else the hassle, when I've finished the last few jobs i'll layout the original turbo bits and take a couple of pictures showing good and bad orientations.

And no, the over boost is still occurring. I am now stumped. Current vacuum pipes are all sound and hold a good vacuum. (EGR vacuum port blanked) Vent pipe from turbo solenoid to inline filter is clear and new filter fitted. Engine vacuum pump is healthy. over 27 inHg at idle. Testing the turbo actuation with a vacuum pump and gauge checks out. Activation starts at about 4 inHg hits the end stop at about 19 inHg. New, genuine, turbo solenoid fitted. Pin 1 wiring from turbo solenoid plug C1611 to ECU C0606 pin 23 checked < 1 ohm. Pin 2 on turbo solenoid plug C1611 has 14V. Any suggestions of what else to test? The only thing I can think of now is that this ECU has had its boost map fiddled with.

My sentiments entirely. Only brake lines and strut top bearings left to resolve Time for some celebratory beers I think.

It drives. Success 😁

Took a chance that the fitting was compression and reusable, and removed it from the slave. The tangs are on a strip that is inserted into a groove in the barrel. A bit of fiddling with picks and it came out. The tangs didn't appear to be protruding enough, so adjusted them to what I think is a sensible angle and took a couple of pictures to help anyone else who comes across this problem. Going to refit now and see how it goes.

You're correct. Picture 1 is the resting state after it has just leapt out. When it is fully inserted there is probably a third of the white plastic collar showing. It matches our other freelander visually when it is engaged.

Here is the offending connection

I'll grab a picture tomorrow and post. The master has a male fitting with a securing lip around it: The slave end has a barrel to accept the male. Inside the barrel is a ring of small tangs pointing inward that should grab the male lip when inserted. There is a plastic collar (not shown on the above picture) around the top of the male that is pressed down in to the connector to hold the tangs aside when disconnecting. It "should" just push in and lock until the plastic collar is used to disconnect it. This particular union takes but a small wiggle for the thing to unclip. Rave says only this: Refit 1. Fit clutch master cylinder to bulkhead and rotate anti-clockwise to secure. 2. Connect clutch master cylinder push rod to clutch pedal. 3. Clean fluid pipe connection. 4. Connect clutch fluid pipe. 5. Fit fluid pipe to clips.

If it's not one thing it's another. Finished putting everything together after sorting out the turbo ready for test drive. Wiggle gear lever to make sure it's in neutral. Hand on key ready to start. Depress clutch pedal and there's a thump and the peddle hits the floor. Lift peddle up with foot and try to depress again and it's solid. Quick look under the bonnet and I see the push fit connection between the master and slave has popped out. Reconnect, depress peddle, thump, peddle to floor, lift and solid, check under bonnet.. Rinse and repeat. Both sides of the connector look fine and are clean. When I connect them they feel fully home and the plastic ring is out of the way and isn't disengaging the internal clip. Master and slave are LUK parts and new, so should work together. Annoying

Unbolting the metal turbo outlet pipe from the back of the engine allows room to get your hand in and manipulate the heat shield into place. It took longer to get this shield in place than it did to refit the turbo

I've just refitted the turbo on one of our TD4s and i'm trying to refit the heat shield that sits under the air filter box with no success at all. I have the heat shield in place under the air filter box but I can't work out how to get the front clip in place so that the rear clip engages. It's item 7 in the diagram below. Anyone know the secret?

I have finally got around to pulling the turbo on this freelander. Short story is that the vnt vanes had seized solid and the ring that moves the vanes had worn enough to allow the actuator to move but no adjustment was taking place. I've stripped the turbo and replaced the worn bits from a salvage turbo, freed off the vanes and given everything a good clean. I expect that's the over boost problem solved.

Autocom says unknown fault. The net throws up a few descriptions such as "Variable Intake Balance Valve Always Open", "Supply pressure regulator", "Boost pressure regulation". In search results I've found many P1470 errors seem to be fixed with a new boost solenoid or vacuum pipes. I've got new vacuum pipes and the solenoids I have all work fine on our 51 td4. The turbo actuator holds vacuum and now moves in and out when controlled directly. I think the only thing left is the turbo itself.

Exerciser circuit worked perfectly. Left it running for an hour but no effect on the turbo boost level. First test drive gave P1470 as usual.

100kPa=1 bar. It seems you can buy MAP sensors in .5 bar intervals for your specific application. Even GM supply different upper limit parts 3 digit case stamp numbers: 1 Bar: 039, 460, 883, 876 2 Bar: 886, 012, 539, 609, 701 3 Bar: 749, 861 I've wondered if the vnt vanes aren't going all the way closed? The ECU expects the vanes to be fully closed with zero vacuum applied. When needed it will apply vacuum to request more boost. If the turbo isn't at minimum the ECU can't adjust downward other than cut fuelling. I've put together a circuit that will exercise the actuator and pull it through full range once per second. I'm going to run that for a while and see if it helps.

I've checked the wiring for the MAP and it looks fine. Two different MAP sensors give very similar readings that look sensible so I'm taking those as good. Similarly two MAF sensors give pretty much the same readings and the wiring for that looks fine too. I've found two broken wires so far. The crank sensor and the boost solenoid both had wires that look to have fatigued and cracked. The burst turbo hoses are another good indicator that the boost is too high. I read somewhere (I can't remember where) that the MAP sensors upper measurement limit is around the 250kPa mark, so the 248kPa I'm seeing may be the sensor limit rather than the boost pressure 😲

I can see that weak vacuum would be a cause, but the same vacuum level pulls the actuator in nicely when I control the solenoid with my bench power supply.