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Everything posted by gadget

  1. Have you pulled the solenoid wires as far out of the protective sleeve as you can to check for hardening/cracks? Our 2001 freelander has hard and brittle plastic on the solenoid wires about an inch into the protective sleeve. Roughly where the white arrow is here. edit: it's pointing at the sleeve behind the exposed wires. I suppose you could be just on the edge of the turbo vanes sticking. You have enough carbon build up to catch the vanes, but not enough to hold them?
  2. Two faults. This new to us freelander was a basket case that was cheap for a reason P1270 was the first fault I went chasing down. It was a dodgy wire to the crank sensor. As far as I have determined P1470 can only be one from of these sources: Turbo solenoid Turbo itself Vacuum pipework MAP sensor ECU Wiring from either MAP or turbo solenoid Intermittent P1470 would lead me to check wiring just before the solenoid plug for fatigue, and the vacuum lines to the EGR and the one over the engine to the turbo solenoid. HTH
  3. Our original freelander has two identical steel slide pins on the front caliper, and the both move freely without drag. The newer 2005 freelander has a smaller lower slide pin with a rubber bush part way down it. I'm refitting the front brakes with new pads, calipers and pins. The new pins are TRW and the bores in the cradle are very clean, shiny metal. The lower pins have drag that bothers me. The rubber bush is dragging in the cradle bore. The pin is free to move in and out, but I don't like that drag. Is there supposed to be drag on the lower pin? If so how much? I'm tempted
  4. This is finally sorted. I tried another ECU - same problem. Checked everything over again but still found nothing wrong. So pulled the turbo again - eventually found the problem. Nozzle ring on the salvage turbo wasn't correctly oriented. I put it back as I found it Refitted correctly and it's running fine. To save anyone else the hassle, when I've finished the last few jobs i'll layout the original turbo bits and take a couple of pictures showing good and bad orientations.
  5. And no, the over boost is still occurring. I am now stumped. Current vacuum pipes are all sound and hold a good vacuum. (EGR vacuum port blanked) Vent pipe from turbo solenoid to inline filter is clear and new filter fitted. Engine vacuum pump is healthy. over 27 inHg at idle. Testing the turbo actuation with a vacuum pump and gauge checks out. Activation starts at about 4 inHg hits the end stop at about 19 inHg. New, genuine, turbo solenoid fitted. Pin 1 wiring from turbo solenoid plug C1611 to ECU C0606 pin 23 checked < 1 ohm. Pin 2 on turbo solenoid pl
  6. My sentiments entirely. Only brake lines and strut top bearings left to resolve Time for some celebratory beers I think.
  7. Took a chance that the fitting was compression and reusable, and removed it from the slave. The tangs are on a strip that is inserted into a groove in the barrel. A bit of fiddling with picks and it came out. The tangs didn't appear to be protruding enough, so adjusted them to what I think is a sensible angle and took a couple of pictures to help anyone else who comes across this problem. Going to refit now and see how it goes.
  8. You're correct. Picture 1 is the resting state after it has just leapt out. When it is fully inserted there is probably a third of the white plastic collar showing. It matches our other freelander visually when it is engaged.
  9. I'll grab a picture tomorrow and post. The master has a male fitting with a securing lip around it: The slave end has a barrel to accept the male. Inside the barrel is a ring of small tangs pointing inward that should grab the male lip when inserted. There is a plastic collar (not shown on the above picture) around the top of the male that is pressed down in to the connector to hold the tangs aside when disconnecting. It "should" just push in and lock until the plastic collar is used to disconnect it. This particular union takes but a small wiggle for the thing
  10. If it's not one thing it's another. Finished putting everything together after sorting out the turbo ready for test drive. Wiggle gear lever to make sure it's in neutral. Hand on key ready to start. Depress clutch pedal and there's a thump and the peddle hits the floor. Lift peddle up with foot and try to depress again and it's solid. Quick look under the bonnet and I see the push fit connection between the master and slave has popped out. Reconnect, depress peddle, thump, peddle to floor, lift and solid, check under bonnet.. Rinse and repeat. Both sides of the connector look fi
  11. Unbolting the metal turbo outlet pipe from the back of the engine allows room to get your hand in and manipulate the heat shield into place. It took longer to get this shield in place than it did to refit the turbo
  12. I've just refitted the turbo on one of our TD4s and i'm trying to refit the heat shield that sits under the air filter box with no success at all. I have the heat shield in place under the air filter box but I can't work out how to get the front clip in place so that the rear clip engages. It's item 7 in the diagram below. Anyone know the secret?
  13. I have finally got around to pulling the turbo on this freelander. Short story is that the vnt vanes had seized solid and the ring that moves the vanes had worn enough to allow the actuator to move but no adjustment was taking place. I've stripped the turbo and replaced the worn bits from a salvage turbo, freed off the vanes and given everything a good clean. I expect that's the over boost problem solved.
  14. Autocom says unknown fault. The net throws up a few descriptions such as "Variable Intake Balance Valve Always Open", "Supply pressure regulator", "Boost pressure regulation". In search results I've found many P1470 errors seem to be fixed with a new boost solenoid or vacuum pipes. I've got new vacuum pipes and the solenoids I have all work fine on our 51 td4. The turbo actuator holds vacuum and now moves in and out when controlled directly. I think the only thing left is the turbo itself.
  15. Exerciser circuit worked perfectly. Left it running for an hour but no effect on the turbo boost level. First test drive gave P1470 as usual.
  16. 100kPa=1 bar. It seems you can buy MAP sensors in .5 bar intervals for your specific application. Even GM supply different upper limit parts 3 digit case stamp numbers: 1 Bar: 039, 460, 883, 876 2 Bar: 886, 012, 539, 609, 701 3 Bar: 749, 861 I've wondered if the vnt vanes aren't going all the way closed? The ECU expects the vanes to be fully closed with zero vacuum applied. When needed it will apply vacuum to request more boost. If the turbo isn't at minimum the ECU can't adjust downward other than cut fuelling. I've put together a circuit that will exercise the
  17. I've checked the wiring for the MAP and it looks fine. Two different MAP sensors give very similar readings that look sensible so I'm taking those as good. Similarly two MAF sensors give pretty much the same readings and the wiring for that looks fine too. I've found two broken wires so far. The crank sensor and the boost solenoid both had wires that look to have fatigued and cracked. The burst turbo hoses are another good indicator that the boost is too high. I read somewhere (I can't remember where) that the MAP sensors upper measurement limit is around the 250kPa mark, s
  18. I can see that weak vacuum would be a cause, but the same vacuum level pulls the actuator in nicely when I control the solenoid with my bench power supply.
  19. A little more progress with this today. Although the turbo actuator would move when vacuum was applied it would only move a little when vacuum was triggered via the solenoid. This turned out to be a small piece of debris in the actuator that would act as a plunger when it was sucked into the vacuum feed opening. Maybe with the engine running the vibration was enough to throw it into the opening? Actuator is back on the turbo and now operates full travel in a nice linear movement when I control it with 0 - 11V externally. With the engine idling and the solenoid power plug removed I'm seei
  20. I've found a possible break in a wire on the crank sensor. Chopped and soldered and the P1270 is staying away Another test drive, and if I drive holding the boost at 248kPa (a small hill and 2500rpm in 3th does this) for any length of time I get P1470 and limp home
  21. Out of curiosity I tried 2 different MAP sensors and 2 MAF sensors today. No real difference between the sensors. Logging some data whilst driving shows that boost pressure appears to have a hard limit at 248kPa and air flow has a peak around 1250mg/stroke.
  22. I've been trying to fix a P1270 error and a noisy turbo for a little while now. Our 51 td4 gives these figures for boost: 780 rpm=98.3kPa 2500 rpm=105kPa 4000 rpm=140kPa The problem 55 td4 gives: 780 rpm=99.5kPa 2500 rpm=150kPa 4000 rpm=220kPa At the rev limiter = 240kPa Driving the 55 td4 hard I can punch holes in the turbo hoses Swapped vacuum lines, turbo solenoid and accumulator from 51 td4 and there's no difference in readings. Unplug the power connector from the turbo solenoid and the boost stays around 105kPa for
  23. I'm hunting down the remaining niggles on our new freelander and one of the niggles is the air intake temperature sensor is reading 117C. LR006796 is a two wire sensor, so i'm thinking probably an NTC resistor. Anyone know what the resistance of these things are at 20-ish degrees C?
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