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gadget

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Everything posted by gadget

  1. I'm hunting down the remaining niggles on our new freelander and one of the niggles is the air intake temperature sensor is reading 117C. LR006796 is a two wire sensor, so i'm thinking probably an NTC resistor. Anyone know what the resistance of these things are at 20-ish degrees C?
  2. Another possibility. The PCV valve has blocked and the increased crank case pressure is causing oil to be being dumped through the smaller PCV pipe (under the air filter) and through the turbo. See how full the intercooler is.
  3. Does anyone have a picture showing the correct mounting location for the td4 turbo solenoid vent filter please? Both of our freelanders have the filters flapping about on the end of vacuum hoses at the back of the engine. I'd like to tidy things up around the back before i put the IRD back on.
  4. It's an odd thing to be an inspection cover where it is. Not in the most accessible place.
  5. After removing the existing clutch I can answer my own question. The service limit according to haynes is 5.6mm. The plate giving the high bite point measures 5.4mm uncompressed. The new AP plate measures 8.0mm uncompressed.
  6. I've put the gearbox back in today and as soon as I had the thin cover plate in place the hole for it was obvious. I haven't managed to find a part number for it but it fits in the cover plate where red outline is.
  7. Nothing on the gearbox that would take this. I'll have another poke about with a torch near the flywheel.
  8. Whilst I was removing the clutch pressure plate this fell from somewhere up above. It feels like it is made from dense neoprene type of rubber. It is 86mm long, 53mm wide and 17mm deep (excluding the end lip). No obvious part markings. Anyone know what this is and where it fits on a freelander 1 td4?
  9. I'm in the middle of replacing the clutch on a freelander 1 TD4, and whilst the IRD is off I thought i'd check around the turbo to see if I can determine if the turbo itself is the cause of the whine I get at full RPM. The outlet hose from the turbo to the metal pipe seems fine, no holes. Trying to wiggle the turbine through the inlet I can't feel any axial play and there is a very small amount of radial play. Should there be any radial play at all?
  10. The broken facelift td4 I picked up had a really stiff clutch pedal that had very little travel. The clutch disengaged without a problem, even with the limited pedal travel. I've replaced the master and it's got a nice smooth action now, but the bite point is quite high. It works fine, no slipping, but should I be worried about the high bite point being indicative of a worn clutch?
  11. Pull the metal collar from the top of the solenoid and withdraw the diaphragm and plunger and give it a quick check and clean. I'll grab a bundle of push fit and give it a whirl Earlier I popped the cover over the tank and checked the pipework. No obvious leaks of diesel and no pipe clip on the flow pipe push fitting, only one on the return. I've put a jubilee on there but no great change in the gurgling sound. The only other place i can see that air could enter before the pump is through the sedimenter.
  12. With that pipe blocked off the P1470 is mostly gone. I say mostly because in the tests i've been doing today it has popped up once. I'll pull the turbo solenoid and clean it in case it has fouled. It's full or surprises and gave a new behaviour today. In the early rev limit checks after blocking the vacuum pipe, when the engine dropped to idle speed it sounded very unwell. Really lumpy, labouring and finally stalled. Trying to start after this the engine was turning over VERY slowly. It did this a few times and has been fine since. I've been watching the fuel pressures whilst running up to rev limit. The lp side starts off around 320kPa and as the revs increase is progressively drops to around 250kPa. The high pressure starts around 28-29,000kPa at idle and slowly increases with revs to a peak of around 120,000kPa, but then starts to reduce to around 88,000kPa at 4780RPM. Is that drop at high revs normal? Is that stuff OK near the exhaust manifold? The solenoid isn't very close to the turbo, but I imagine it will be toasty there.
  13. Vacuum pipe from tee to EGR solenoid has rubbed through against an engine part. That might be enough to stop the turbo actuator at the rev limit. I'll block that off to test tomorrow. The vacuum pipe from the accumilator to the turbo solenoid is a much fatter unbraided pipe than the EGR. Anyone know the dimensions for this? LR Part number STC4647 if that is any help at all.
  14. I'll need to trace the fuel pipes from the tank to the sedimenter and check for leaks. I've cleared the codes and re-run the rev limiter test and I have two new codes. 0500 which the interweb tells me is Vehicle Speed Sensor related. I'm not sure what to make of this being that I was parked and in neutral?? The other code is P1470 which is Boost Solenoid, so something turbo related to hunt down.
  15. This is what my 030 injectors look like. No recess for upper o-ring. I got the stubborn one from the rover 75 and have fitted the set to the freelander. Lumpy idle gone. Most of the time it starts within 2 crank turns, just like our other freelander. Sometimes it takes 5 seconds of cranking before it starts. The kind of thing i'd expect if there was air in the fuel after a filter change. This is my first experience with the under arch pump configuration and this may be normal, but the under arch pump is gurgling more than I would think it should. Not sure how to describe this properly, but I would expect more of a whooshing from the fuel than a gurgle. I've had the carrier off again to check for leaks, but everything is sound. Other oddities - taking the engine up to the rev limiter at one point had the engine holding back and hunting between 4k and 4k5 revs. This behaviour seems to have gone now. There is an almighty whine sometimes when getting into the high revs. The kind of sound that I would think a turbo would make if the turbine wheel was running against the housing. No obvious split hoses and there is good pressure in the hoses. I'm going to read the codes again tomorrow and see if there are any new entries.
  16. Our 2001 freelander had a blocked PCV filter when we got it. The pressure had pushed oil past the dipstick and through the rear crank oil seal. Replacing the filter with the BMW plastic alternative cured the pressure issue. The rear seal still weeps, but not enough to worry about. The facelift freelander was cheap because it has a raft of faults. If I fix it, it replaces the 2001. If I can't fix it it becomes a bag of parts. Two of the three 030 injectors have a part that slides. The third has rusted to the main body. I think the fourth has freed in the sliding part, but that has rusted to the head. Further violence required.
  17. I'll try and get a decent picture of one of these 030 injectors so you can see the differences. I've noticed that part of the body can slide a few mm up and down the length of them too. Did you fit the 2mm thick copper washers from the freelander or the thinner rover 75 washers? There is blowback from the crank case. I've replaced the PCV filter (with a BMW plastic thing) and valve though to rule those out as problems.
  18. Injectors are back in and it is better, but not perfect. Sometimes starts immediately, but now always starts in under 5 seconds. Idling is better, but still not as smooth as the other freelander. Leak back is still a little worse on two injectors, but much improved over original. Both freelanders are manual and have the 049 suffix injectors. The numbers I turn up for auto are suffix 130. I've been up to the rover 75 today and pulled 3 of the 4 from it. One is stubbornly refusing to budge. I'll take another crack at it later in the week. The injectors are similar to the freelander but there are differences. There are no upper o-rings fitted to the 030 types. They seem to rely on a flexible skirt part way into the injector bore. Judging by the rust on the injector bodies the skirts don't work too well. The injector seat washers are much thinner than the ones in the freelander. The m47 in the rover gets 129bhp with these injectors, so maybe the difference is flow rate?
  19. I didn't find and balls in the injectors. The puck was the smallest thing I came across. It's tiny, maybe 2mm diameter and 1mm thick? It's located inside the tube that sits on the spring and floats between what i assume is the plunger from the head and the base of the nozzle? If the cleaning doesn't work I've been offered a set of injectors from a rover 75. They're not 049 suffix, they're 030. Physically they would fit, but I don't know if they will work acceptably. I've not looked to see where the crank sensor is. If it's an arse to get to i'll grab another rather than remove it from the working freelander.
  20. I've taken the nozzle, needle, spring, seat and puck out of the injectors. Three of them have cleaned up nicely. One still has blocked nozzle jets. It's having another round. I can take the crank sensor from our working freelander to test if cleaning the injectors has no effect.
  21. Glow plugs all check ok. A leak test showed 2 of the 4 injectors were dumping quite a lot more fuel via leak off than the others. I pulled all the injectors and they were rather cruddy. Of the 5 nozzle jets on each injector 2 injectors had 3 working jets, and the other 2 had 1 working jet. They're stripped down and soaking ready for the ultrasonic tank tomorrow.
  22. It had the starting and lumpy problems with the old pump and filter. The pump was making odd noises and changing it's tone. So a swapped the pump and filter. It made no difference whatsoever to the engine problems. I'm using autocom to read the ecu data. All of the live data for the cylinders is reported as 0, so i' suspecting it can't read that data properly. I'll see if I can put some tubing together for a leak off test.
  23. I've acquired another freelander (I know, I should've learned this lesson by having one already). It's hard to start. Takes about 10-12 seconds of cranking to get it to fire. When it does start it idles at around 790 rpm and is lumpy. It doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold, when left for 10 minutes after stopping it is hard to start again. If i stop the engine and then start it within a few seconds it will fire instantly. New pierburg low pressure fuel pump and mahle filter fitted. Swapped cam sensor for good from other freelander. Same symptoms with maf connected or not. Current error codes from engine are P0100, P1110 and P0110. These are all related to maf and air temp sensors being unplugged at the moment. Low pressure fuel at idle is 319 kPa - 310kPa at 1400 rpm High pressure fuel at idle is 29,000 kPa = 68,000kPa at 1400 rpm Edit: I also tried pulling the fuel pressure sensor plug off whilst the engine was running. Engine dies and will not start with that plug removed. Duff injectors, or something else?
  24. Our freelander has been doing the rear brake funny business for quite some time. Usually when the weather is damp. I've just rebuilt everything with new. The new springs are *MUCH* stronger than the originals have become. There is such a difference between the new and old that I'm wondering if tired springs are a contributory factor. Time will tell...
  25. If i'm remembering the layout correctly - I think the leading shoe has an extra piece of metal that links to the handbrake mechanism and the two main springs are different lengths. I'm reasonably certain that everything is in the right place, but I'll double check everything to make sure.
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