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artwigwa

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Posts posted by artwigwa

  1. On 5/27/2021 at 12:15 PM, steve b said:

    I had a pair of galv. door tops from them and very good quality and good service too

    Steve 

    Ok Might just go for it as I have all the bits to complete it. 

     

    On 5/27/2021 at 11:58 AM, markyboy said:

    Pretty sure I've heard good things about them.

    Yes and the cat flap is cheaper on there website than ebay, no surprise lol

  2. 19 hours ago, Nonimouse said:

    Its a very simple lump. You'll need the ECU. Do you want to mate it to a manual box?

    The EDC Disco's have got an unjustified bad rep

    The plan is to mate it to the original lt77.

    Although auto sounds tempting...

  3. On 5/22/2020 at 7:10 PM, dave88sw said:

    The engine is the same, its just the fuel pump and injectors that are different.  Fit a standard manual fuel pump and injectors and it'll all be fine.

     

    (Some people don't bother changing the injectors, it will run on the originals but the "pop" pressure is different, don't really know what effect that has though)

    Ok. I've looked around for a manual pump with no luck so far.

    How much extra work would it be to fit the edc engine in place of the old 19j, all information I can find is on the mamual 300tdi. 😕

     

  4. Just looking for some thoughts on the possibility of putting a 300tdi in my 90td.

    I have aquired a rotten p reg discovery with a low millage engine BUT as it's an auto it will probably have EDC and as such reading on line its not possible to fit this engine?. Even on the steve parkers website they advise NOT to fit a edc 300tdi. How do I know if it does have electronic diesel control?

    With funds tight and a complete disco sitting here it's realy my only option...

     

  5. On 8/14/2019 at 1:58 PM, 2a-Egg said:

    Does the peddle come back as expected, if yes, replace the flexi hose between the slave and the clutch itself. It may have collapsed internally. £8 fix if that's the culprit 

    Had the same problem with my series, replaced flexi and all was good. 

  6. Ok thanks for the explanation, makes sense now.

    On 8/30/2018 at 9:22 PM, miketomcat said:

    Leaving the seal out will allow axle oil to lubricate the wheel bearing. The good news is generally the bearings last longer like this. The bad news is like this there is only one seal keeping the oil in the axle so any play will lead to a leak. Either way will work there is nothing wrong with two seals and grease lubrication or one seal and oil lubrication.

    Mike

     

  7. Evening all.. so I'm rebuilding the axel on my 1988 rear drum braked 90 and on fitting the wheel bearing kit there is a oil seal FRC8222 in the box. If correct this outer seal runs on the outer hub seal spacer (pics below if uploaded correct) BUT some fitting guides state the seal is not needed on a 90"

    I is confused :wacko:

    Can anyone confirm if I should or shouldn't this, FR8222. Thanks.

    20180820_163045.jpg

    20180820_163108.jpg

  8. 23 hours ago, Boris113 said:

    As other's have said, you can do it either way and if you have lifting equipment, the engine out option is probably the easiest, it's worth throwing some paint over the chassis whilst you have room to get at it.

    My clutch failed this year whilst I was abroad, we dropped the gearbox using a trolley jack and basic toolkit. The seatbox and transmission tunnel don't need to come out if you take the selectors off the top of the gearbox first.

    As boris113 said, using the trolley jack method that's the best way I have found to do the clutch!

     

  9. For the seat base, warm the plastic retaining bead in a bucket of hot water before you start, it makes the job sooooooo much easier. I'd also reject the advice in the instructions to hit the bead with a mallet, the vinyl sides of the covers are very easy to tear if the bead is a bit too tight.

    Thanks Dave88sw that makes sense with the hot water. Not sure on the vinyl so might go with the techno pattern material, not as sticky in the summer?!

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