ZeroDelta
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Posts posted by ZeroDelta
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Hi,
I have recently bought a 1992 Defender 90 200 tdi. From my initial inspection it looked sound enough, but whilst repairing the wipers I noticed the bulkhead was rusting at the corners. This is depressing to say the least as it is a repair I had not budgeted for. I have had a look on the Forum and found a number of post that recommend either a repair panel or corner repair panels:
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5643421e87
http://www.ebay.co.u...974797004803651
Has anyone used these? are they worth while or just a temporary fix?
Thanks,
0D
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Hi,
I am in the process of bring a 200 TDi Defender back from the brink - a bit of a rough wagon, but seems sound. I have just started to service (I have no idea when it was done last) the engine and changed the air filter. When I took the old air filter out there seemed to be quite a bit of oil (I think) in the air filter compartment. Is this something I should be worried about if so what is the fix? The engine seems to run well and I just wonder if it is because it has not been changed for such a long time - open to suggestions.
Thanks
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Does that mean replacement of a bit of fettling??
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I have just recently bought a 1992 200tdi hard top with 125,000 miles on the clock. It needs all the usual stuff done to it service, new shocks, steering damper etc, but there is a bit of an ominous groaning noise from the rear. Basically when I lift off the power and use engine braking the noise starts and if I reapply power it goes away. I have a funny feeling it is the rear diff, but wondered if it could be a wheel baring or something like that. Can anyone help?
Thanks
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Thanks for the tips guys, I will give them a try and keep looking on eBay. Need to find a decent front and back headlining that is not going to cost me a fortune.
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I have just bought a 1992 200tdi defender, that is mechanically good, but the interior is like a grenade range! The beaker in Melksham sounds like a good bet.
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Does anyone know of a good Landy breakers in the Wiltshire area?
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Nope, I will have to do most of my work on this on the road side, which is ok for interior stuff, but not for a big job like an engine transfer.
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Looks like the 200 Tdi is by far the simplest option. I take that this will mate with the gearbox etc? Also does anyone know a reputable mechanic in the South of England who could carry out the transplant as I do not have the facilities to carry out such a job?
Thanks
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Hi,
I have an 1984 County Ninety with a 2.5TD engine in it - not sure what transfer box is in it but I assume it is the original. For the most of it the vehicle is in good order for its age, but I would like to improve its performance. I was wondering has anyone out there has converted a 2.5TD to either a 300Tdi or TD5? IS it possible (and by possible I mean straight forward)? Also I have been told that a Disco transfer box will improve performance on the road, again is this true and is the change over over from original to Disco box straight forward?
I want to bring this old girl up to date - ish as there is loads more driving in her yet.
Thanks.
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Hi,
I have a 110 CSW which I bought with steel wheels. I have recently bought a set of boost alloys, but am unsure of what I need to so that the alloys fit. Can any one help (hib, studs etc)? I am sure it is not too difficult, but I get a bit edgy when messing around with wheels and brakes as driving is kinda dependant on them..... If anyone can point me in the right direction I would be very greatful. I have had a look on the forum, but could not find anything. Thanks,
Zerodelta.
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Having worked for Leyland at one time, it's quite possible that they would temporarily use the all-singing all-dancing harness if they run out of the lesser one rather than stop production (as a production concession). Without knowing exact proportions of each needed, when ordering you'd err on the side of the better one, just in case. I could believe there were 2 harnesses as cost saving was an obsession; they even took the magnet out of the sump plugs to save 8p.
Nigel
Guys,
thanks for the advice and the next time I have my dash apart I will check the harness serial number.
ZEROD
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Hi,
I drive a 52 plate 110 CSW.
I recently had to replace the guts of my windscreen wiper system - not a frustrating job at all! Whilst I had the dash out I noticed a couple of connecting wires at either end of the windscreen and what looked like a switch connecter which was not attached to anything behind the central dash consul. The only conclusion is that it was for a heated windscreen. That said there is no evidence of a heated windscreen switch or one ever been installed. My question is do Defenders come with a standard wiring loom of which things like a heated windscreen are included even if one has not been installed or is it more likely that my vehicle once had a heated windscreen and has it removed? Thanks for any advice.
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Hi,
I have noticed that the coolant level on my 02 110 TD5 has dropped after refilling - not massively fast, but noticeable after a weeks driving. Apart from a leak in the coolant system, could this be a symptom of a head gasket going and if so are there any other tell tale signs I should be looking out for? Thanks for any advice.
ZeroD.
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Hi,
I have just noticed a lot of what I can only describe as really dirty grease around my nearside chalice. The offside chalice doesn't seem to be the same. Do I have a problem or is this normal? Thanks,
ZeroD
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Thanks very much for the advice. I will take a look at the transfer box option and GKN and Ashcroft. As I said I am pretty new to this game and although I could probably make the change myself I do not have the facilities, like a garage for starters!! Have you done this change to your own wagon? If so was it worth it?
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I own a 02 plate 110 Defender TD5 and use it for my daily commute and love driving it. Apart from this I use it to go to hard reach places to mountain bike, climb and travel all over Europe to do this. Although I love the Defender I would like to increase its comfort for all those long journeys. When I bought the wagon I had the engine remapped which has increased its performance drastically. I have just read in Febs edition of LRO about replacing the transfer box with a Discos to help with smoother driving. It also mentioned that adding an overdrive would have a similar effect. I am pretty new to this game and have never attempted anything so major. With this in mind does anyone out there have any advice? What I am after is:
Is it worth it?
How much of a drama is it to do it?
How much would it cost?
Are there any specialists who could make the transfer (south of England preferable)?
Lastly I do not tow any trailers so I am not too fussed in losing a bit of towing performance. I am sure there are those of you who think that I should chop my Defender in for a Disco, but I have already had that experience and was back in a Defender within 3 months - not something I want to repeat.
Thanks for any advice given.
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I have a good friend who is in the police in Oxfordshire and is also a Defender driver and he gave me the following advice.
We all know that Defenders are pretty easy to steal as the security is abysmal, but that said the alarms are loud and will go off if the car is interfered with. The way thieves are getting around setting the alarms off is by removing the nearside headlamp and shorting out the alarm from there. To prevent this a good set of headlamp guards with nylock nuts on the inside will prevent this from happening or at least cause them more hassle and risk trying to steal the car.
Thames Valley Police have found that Crook Locks are now being bypassed by thieves with increasing regularity and an experienced thief can get around them pretty quickly. The best alternative is a pedal lock like the 'Ardcase (http://www.lrsoffroad.co.uk/content/ardcase) which seems to put paid to all but the most determined thieves.
That said the best advice to prevent theft is where you park it. if you can secure it in a garage, great but if not try and think of how bet to protect your wagon. Personally I park my 110 with its nose in a hedge and the Better Halves car right up its backside, so if they want to steal my Defender the little Bast@rds will have to break into 2 cars.
Hope this helps.
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The issue with sizing wire and fuses is amp load. To get amp load, use this formula: Watts/volts = amps. You are dealing with a 12v system, so the volts is always 12.
Theoretically a 20 amp fuse will protect up to 240 watts, which is about the draw of your dip and main beams all together. Realistically, most equipment you would power from a 12v socket (phone, gps) will only need an amp or two max, and you want the fuse to be able to burn and protect your wiring before the smoke gets out. If you are going to run a DC/AC inverter, then you'll want at least one socket wired to support the amp draw of that item. I.e., a 100 watt inverter will pull 8.33 amps, requiring a 10 amp fuse; a 200 watt inverter would draw 16.67 amps and require a 20 amp fuse.
Running a supply wire from the battery to a distribution block is ok, but you should fuse the wire from the DB to each socket rather than the supply wire.
That is spot on. Thank you for the clear answer.
ZD
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Hi,
My better half has just bought me a Tunnel Tray from Mud Stuff UK - I am a very lucky man
I am just about to install it, but being a bit of a novice with electrics I need some advice. I think the simplest thing to do is to run it directly off the battery with a fuse on the live, rather than mess around with the main fuse box. With this in mind what rating of fuse should I use? I am thinking 20 amp, but want to be sure. Secondly, the tray has 3x 12V sockets, if I get a length of wire that is man enough, do you think it will be OK to run 1 wire from the battery and the use a chocolate box to split into the 3 12V sockets?
I know these may sound like simple questions, but as I said I am new to all this and don't want to fry my 110!
Thanks guys.
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If this is just happening in the cold weather it would suggest stiffening of the door-seals preventing total closure of the doors. There are various things you can coat the seals with that will keep them supple but you might find adjusting the strikers on the door pillars themselves might help too but make sure you mark their original position by drawing around them with a pencil to provide a reference from which to work from.
I think you might be right about the door seals as the problem has only really started when the winter set in. That said it does not happen with the nearside door - my better half laughs at me getting in that side and struggling over the cubby box so I don't have to door rattling all the way to work!! Mind you the near side door has probably had less use over time. Thank you all for the advice to a newbie.
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Hi, I own a 2003 110 TD5 and have real trouble getting the doors to shut first thing in the morning. I have removed the locks and seals and oiled and greased everything that moves but it still happens. BAsically the door will close and half latch i.e. it will stay closed but not tightly so as I drive along wind whistles in and the door rattles. It happens the most with the drivers door and the off side second row door. The weird thing is that after about 20mins of driving if I open and close the door it seems to work fine. I am not too sure if I need to get new door locks, adjust the door hinges or replace the door seals (which are fine on the surface of it). My worst fear is that there has been some bodywork movement. Can anyone out there suggest solution? Thanks.
I am just about to install it, but being a bit of a novice with electrics I need some advice. I think the simplest thing to do is to run it directly off the battery with a fuse on the live, rather than mess around with the main fuse box. With this in mind what rating of fuse should I use? I am thinking 20 amp, but want to be sure.
Heatshot - heated washer fluid for winter
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Has anyone installed a Heatshot system into their Defender? It basically retro fits into the engine bay and splices into the existing washer system then provides hot washer fluid when you squoosh your windscreen- it all looks very simple. The link below will take you to the website:
http://www.heatshot.co.uk/
It is £178 for a unit and if the marketing is anything to go by something the Defender driver has been after for years - especially in winter. My question is has anyone installed one and was it worth the cash?
Cheers,
0D