voevod
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Posts posted by voevod
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Yes, that's a great help. I don't remember seeing a seal for the piston. It is a new slave cylinder, which turns out not to have been tightened on properly by a 'helper'.
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Discovered a leak from this this morning. After carefully taking it out (I forgot to put cable tie around push rod end of fork), the internals all fell out. Can somebody tell me in what order the components fit back into the cylinder?.As I see it, spring first then piston (flat side outermost and making contact with push rod). I don't want to put it back in wrongly and have it drop it's guts inside the bellhousing. Cheers.
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If it had been a Tdi, I would definitely advise changing the fork, but doesn't the Td5 have a cast-iron fork? I would go for a Valeo clutch, as that's what they have when made and I would replace the bearing.
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Sorted now. Spool had disengaged from the fork underneath it.
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Having changed clutch recently, I had this housing off for ease of use. Now that everything's back together, I can't select any gear. I had exactly the same problem the last time and remember being told the 5th gear spool guide hadn't engaged. What does this connect to? It's an LT77 box incidentally.
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Will order from them on Monday. Cheers again guys.
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I've run AT2s for a couple of years now and am quite disappointed by them to be honest, their grip in the wet was never very good. I also have quite bad wear on my nearside front, but after measuring drag link (is it 924mm?), I'm going to attempt the tracking with the string method as shown on here somewhere.
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Oh well, if that's the way the belts have to be, I'll put up with it. Yes, clutch is slipping alarmingly badly now, think I'll go for the 130 item as it does get worked hard. I'm just wondering now if the problem I had with excessive black smoke is the engine working much harder than the clutch and revving much higher than the clutch can cope with. Cheers for the advice guys. VB, where did you get yours, they don't seem to be very competitively priced!
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Yep, I vaguely remember having to swap a pulley to make everything run. The angle between water pump and steering pump is so obtuse that if the tension is loosened even by a fraction, the water pump pulley doesn't turn. Just thought it might be worthwhile getting the belts back into the Defender pattern. As for the clutch slip, it was only a matter of time. It was an H/D one that came out of a blue box, but to it's credit, it's been in two engines now. So...Valeo or Borg & Beck?
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Sorry, yes, it's a Disco engine I've transplanted into a 110. I retained the inlet and turbo from the Defender's engine for economic reasons.
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While investigating a problem I have when accelerating hard, i.e. the engine seems to rev higher than the speed it needs to turn the wheels, almost as if I'm wheelspinning or the clutch is still dipped, I noticed that instead of having the belts in a water pump/crank/alternator pattern,for some reason I have the belts as so- water pump/crank/steering pump with the alternator belted to the crank. Could anyone identify the problems this may cause?
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Cheers western, will check in the morning, although I'm sure the yellow unit doesn't have a multiplug in it..I wondered what that was!When I put in some gauges recently, I omitted to fit in-line fuses to their positive feed, would this have anything to do with this?Thanks again
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It was the black ribbed plastic box bolted to the dash rail inside the binnacle western.I just unplugged it,but still have no dipped beam.Is there another relay or resistor under the bonnet somewhere?The reason I ask is that when I switch on dipped,I can hear a relay buzzing,but it's not inside the binnacle,perhaps on the other side of bulkhead?The middle tin relay under fuseblock does get quite warm,but I don't know the significance of this!
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Well,having taken off both the binnacle and steering wheel surround,I'm satisfied that there are no loose or corroded connections anywhere,although the brass nut holding the headlamp switch in place was loose.Have swapped about the tin relays under fuseblock all to no avail.Have disconnected dim-dip relay at top inside binnacle and checked wiring in there also.Not quite sure what I've missed now!
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Sorry to resurrect again,but yes,same here western,it made no difference whatsoever,although the relay's contacts were slightly burnt.Having viewed a newer post on the matter,I think I'll check the switch as I replaced this a year or so ago and it came out of a blue box!
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Cheers western.If I haven't got a/c could I not just take one of those relays and replace the headlamp one with it?Or is that just wishful thinking
They are all identically marked tin covered relays. -
Yes,sorry.It is a translucent casing western.It's a 1990 "H" registration 110 hardtop 200tdi.
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Sorry for resurrecting this thread,but I have a similar problem.Sidelights and full beam but no dipped.I got behind the metal fusebox cover and there are two large relays on left,one blue one red.On the other side there are 5 smaller relays(more underneath the fuse array really,not behind).Can't find any blue/white trace wires anywhere,but the first of the five has a red sheath connector,all the rest have black.They're all stamped Lucas and have the same markings on them.Any ideas anyone?
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I swapped over my K&N for a standard item and replaced the exhaust system from downpipe-tailpipe.I had a straight-through but the smoke's just as bad with the front box.My understanding is that the mushroom top "sucks" air down the snorkel and the engine should stall if i cover it with a plastic bag if the intake route isn't leaking?I'll disconnect everything and see what happens first,but think I'll swill some Kero through the intercooler in case it's blocked or clogged up and check the boost pipe from the fip,which doesn't seem to available anywhere.
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Yes,I fitted a BP one which lasted only a few hundred miles before leaking.Replaced it with DeCarbon,fit it and forget it and not too pricey.
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Have plodded through various jobs recently,but one has me completely vexed.Since transplanting a Disco 200tdi into my 110 I've always been troubled by black smoke,which wasn't present when I floored the Disco before cannibalising it.I kept my original 110 inlet manifold and turbo as funds were prohibitive,sealed up the ludicrously expensive hose from wing to air filter (ESR184)and the pipe from filter to turbo,fitted new silicone hoses,cleaned out cyclone breather again,although rubber O ring is missing,so there is a dribble of oil on head,checked the airproofing from snorkel top to turbo really.I'm pretty sure the pump hasn't been tweaked,so I'll leave that.What else should I check?I'm thinking possibly either intercooler has a split somewhere or oil contaminated or turbo boost pipe from fip?Anyone got a part number for this pipe?Sorry for such a long winded post,but I'm pulling my hair out with frustration!
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I'm sure it was here a while back that someone posted how they replaced their intake hose from snorkel to airbox and airbox to turbo with some much better hoses from some company on e-bay.All I remember is that they were black with a green trace and very robust looking and only £13,quite a saving from LR's ludicrous prices.Any help much appreciated.
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I've had both standard fork(Britpart,it lasted almost 800 miles before separating the dimple)and a Heavy Duty fork(also Britpart,been in two gearboxes now no problem).I would expect that OE is the way to go,but the blue boxed H/D is a worthy second.
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Sorted.I must have loosened then disconnected the low tension wire going to starter whilst installing the appallingly made exhaust I got on Friday.Hooray!
They are all identically marked tin covered relays.
Clutch DIY?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I'd certainly be worried about those symptoms, but is it even possible to mate the box up to the engine with that bad a misalignment? The end of the splined shaft goes into a very tight aperture with a brass(?) spacer/washer, there is literally nowhere else for it to go, unless you mean they may have broken the middle of the friction plate. I also changed clutch recently and it also took me an age to remember to turn the crank to align the splines. If they somehow carelessly misaligned one of the props when putting everything back together, would that imbalance not cause a juddering in the transfer box? Having changed two or three Defender clutches, I just can't see how it's possible to fit it that badly.