richard1978

A mate of mine every other day needed to jump his BMW. It turned out to be an incorrect bulb in his rear cluster which had a constant drain due to it having two elements in it. Have you tried the light circuits. 140mA may well be a lamp, horn or perhaps corrosion in and around fuse boards... hope this helps. richard

no worries Rob. I have to say I am not a member of any of the LR/RR clubs about here, I didn't even know there was a solent LRC and I live here! Richard

I agree, but stuff like fluid changes on a ramp would be a doddle. I mean, an engine swap over a weekend is totally do-able, as is say swapping an axle or just breaks. of course some things woould be a no no, we do have a 180 amp mig, but i am not sure that i would let a land rover welding job in as it could go on for weeks. now, if the car was mot'd and was never made in an undrivable state, it could be done over a weekend and then restarted the following weekend. to be honest, every week day between 0730 and 1730 is an option too as it is not used during the daytime... just testing the water before the forum to see where the land lies. richard

i forgot to add that it has a very large compressed air system and has quite a few tools to hand, jacks oil catch pans spanners etc ...

didn't really know where to post this.... For anyone who is near to fareham hants (PO14), I run a car club which is a large workshop and is under used massively. I figured whilst it is still cold/wet but equally applicable through the nice weather too, If anyone has a job which needs either cover or you need a ramp or a bay, there are usually 2-3 spare bays here. I guess the work would have to be done in a day or certainly by the end of the sunday, but if anyone wants to use it for not alot of money then drop me a line on here. I am not touting for business, but it would benefit the members near me, make a bit of money for the club and I would donate money to the forum too. depending on how this goes, this would be an on going thing. this thread will either get really busy or it wont, but i thought i would post it anyway. It is on a naval base, but getting you in it would not be difficult. Richard

bad earth would be my guess too. It is worth checking both sides of footwells for bad earth points and also there maybe a dodgy connection to the +ve of alternator and or main earth straps or battery post connections loose or corroded. check main earth straps or footwell wiring first.

was having a look locally for all things landrover and found this. link http://www.silverlake.co.uk/salvage/details/1971/landrover/defender/109/petrol/4x4/green/manual/sc8906/ probably get it for less too. cheers guys richard

ok, so you are right about the ve pumps. but the pressures which newer pumps can push out totally change the way diesels perform. less noise blah blah blah. 300hp is great, but how much more fuel goes into this figure. i understand why allisport and the rest of the vnt landy kit companies went mechanical with there actuators was because of water and i know you dont need to mod these engines for vnt's, but if you were to transplant half of a vnt engined car fuel system, you may as well stick its vnt on too if it had one. but that was just a side thought when i spoke about vag engines. 17000 psi v 23000 psi is a no brainer. i was just writing a thought out and seeing what the response was. i also know that retro fitting new injectors would mean in all likelyhood that the injectors were not in an ideal position, the combustion chambers are most likely not an ideal shape, but even 50% of what common rail can offer on a 300/200 lump is better than nothing. your going to hate me for saying this, but not all landy's go balls deep in water(it is fun when they do though), some people use them to tow and/or just drive them. i appreciate what you say though, and i am pragmatic about this suggestion, but i like to tinker where i can. we shall see.

cheers guys.

vulcan bomber, common rail diesels can massively out perform indirect injection. that is why the td5 has so much better power/torque. i am not saying the ve pumps are bad either, but if this can be done, it would litteraly change the way 300/200 lumps are tuned and with so many vag motors out there, second hand parts are pretty cheap. this would give these good old engines another generation or three to live.

sorry reckless engineer, i never looked at the links, i just googled it. if you cant find it and you are looking at the links with no luck, most likely you have looked more than me. as far as vag.com goes, linky if that does not work then http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/TDI-nozzle-FAQ.htm#iq hope this helps

the ecu has the fuel tables for the edu, so both are needed. vp44's have a bad rep, they have between 4000 and 23000 psi outputs, and if you up the lift pump supply to 14psi instead of 10-11psi and increase the supply and return pipe diameter, the life expectancy of them is much longer as the diesel is the lubricant on these pumps and off throttle they do not get enough lube in standard form. the EDU is another matter, but as long as water ingress is dealt with, it would be no less reliable... nothing is perfect. reckless engineer, i agree with the injectors, but you can get spray patterns similar as original 300tdi ones. besides, the atomisation will be much greater under more pressure. and the increased pressure is one of the reasons to do this. megasquirt is a real black art, but looking at some audi/vw sites, they have megasquirted their 1.9/2.0 tdi's so everything but the afr should be close. besides, buying the auto tune part of the tuner studio should get you most of the way there. but i dont know a huge amount about it, i think i would just transplant the ecu too if i bought the entire donor car and change the fuelling using vag.com. i am just hopeful and i think if you can get a vnt mod, you should be able to get common rail and bring peformance to a great engine up several notches. i do like interesting topics and what they stir up.

well it is interesting that cummins use the vp44 in their trucks. i know not the type of pump on the old cummins engines which go straight into a landy, but the block may well have stayed similar to the new dodge cummins vp44 fueled engines. i know water and electric dont mix well, but transplanting the fueling from a newer diesel onto a 300/200 with the sensors too is a great idea if it can be done. i need to look into how the fuel is delivered - that is if the EDU on the pump does it with just sensors, or if it is the ECU on the car that controls the EDU. i guess as it is on so many cars from different manufacturers it is most likely the EDU, but i will have to look at it. maybe someone else on here who knows can post it, but i will look into it.

before anybody rags me about this, they are all bosch pumps i am talking about, and i cant see them being totally different as far as the mechanical fitment goes, just the fact that they are controlled in a completely different way, well not too different to make it worth considering. and yes, i expect all the pipework to injector rails will need doing too. and i would be using normal white diesel as i would/should get a much better return in mpg if it worked. richard

i never like the price of td5 lumps, but wondered if you could mate a vp44 fuel pump from say a 2.2 diesel vectra onto a 300tdi lump. you would need to get the correct ratio for the cam/crank shafts and would need to stick the electronics that feed the pumps ecu too, but i was wondering if it is as simple as getting it mated correctly and adjusting fueling accordingly, but i reckon the pumps delivery should be able to handle the fuel requirements of a 2.5. also the injectors probably need to be transferred again i think they should be able to deliver enough fuel per squirt, but i am just thinking out loud at the moment and have not thought it out fully yet. even a pump from a post 96/7 vag 2.5 tdi and presumably all the sensors and injectors too should be 'do-able'. it would certainly liven up and give a new capability to a well made engine, and they have vnt's on them too.... anybody with more retro fitting knowledge than me have a more informative way of doing this? or am i raining in the wind? cheers guys. richard