Range Rover Blues
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Posts posted by Range Rover Blues
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I rang Kenlowe a couple of years ago for advice about cooling, I was having problems when I towed. Their engineer advised me NOT to buy any electric fan, even theirs, and fit a new viscous hub to the fan if I was sure the radiator wasn't to blame. A viscous will shift more than twice the air that a pair of electrics will. He also advised a second oil to air auto box cooler.
I have electrics on Blue though because it's an off-roader. It does seem to use them a lot when greenlaning and that used to cause me problems with alternator belts, even with twin batteries, until I fitted a thicker Vee belt.
Tanuki is right, a hot engine is efficient and clean, though I do remember reading that the original Buick V8 was most efficient at around 70 degrees which is obvioulsy contradictory. We all know these engines are not perfect but if you keep the cooling system in good order then the temp should never rise about 19degrees, which is hardly likey to cause damage.
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By coincidence as i read tis an advertising banner came up under your first ppost, for an EBC direct supplier. they're a bit pricey
compared to Paddocksbut EBC do a standard pad and disk for half the price of a perfomance part, so perhaps £60 for the front disks if I read correctly.http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com/?source=googleebcgif&gclid=CI_2n-KarqwCFYEZ4QodrCB0GQ
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The original LR manual does not have a procedure for edjusting it, it says that under warranty the box should be removed and sent back to the maufacturer. Out of warranty it should be replaced.
Bit extreme I thought given tat there's a nice adjusting nut built in.
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I bought some off the bay and thye are completley wrong, I supect they fit a P38 or something. Anyhoo, my LSE has EBC disks all round, 4 disks and 8 pads was about £212 when I did mine, well worth it.
Blue had some Delphi ones I think, from Paddocks, really good quality and better corrosion resistance. Sadly softer metal brakes better but rusts and wears.
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I bought some fuelparts ones for my LSE from a local factor, opend the boxs and lo and behold they were NTK parts inside.
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I#m not sure a flexi can deal with twisting vibrations either, they are deisgned to not twist.
I used to keep blowing the same gaskets on the LSE, I assumed it was the cats blocked becasue they always went when I towed something. I ended up with a sports stainless system, which cracked on number 8 last year.
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I did my Escort years ago when I restored it and put a couple of litres through each sill. It kept taking a c**p on the garage floor for a couple of years, every time the sun came out and made the garage hot!
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I used Lucas 20/50 in my V8s and 15/40 Lucas Magnol in the TDi, it has an oil stabiliser in it to make it "sticky". I run the LSE on their synthetic or semi syn, unlike many brands it's a high-percentage synthetic.
Anyhoo, the later V8s had internal differences, the journals had bigger diameters and along with strengthening the crank this increases the oil separation in the bearings, so that they could use a thinnner oil. IIRC they also had tighter clearences
Thinner oils create less drag and reduce fuel consumption, at the extreme this comes at the expense of engine wear.
Thicker oils, especially those with a wide viscosity band, tend to break down more because they rely on additives to get the viscosity, the base oil isn't that thick, so after a few thousand miles you might not have the oil you think you paid for.
I also used to use Comma 20/50, by the drum when Blue burnt lots of oil. It didn't last long enough to break down.
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You'll know when you see an e-bay listing for a mother-in-law. "Only selling because I need to tax my Landy"
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Does £50 include all the fuel he used up dragging all the accesories around? or the garage he keeps it in
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So what year did Metric diffs arrive then\\\\/ \i thought it was when the RRC EFi arrived, along with stronger propshafts and stuff.
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No, I mean the microbe is about the same as the Festa, but I don't off-road either and don't use the gears to slow down much either.
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Yeap I'd agree that there should be 2 hollow pins round them bolts like you say. Looking at the Torque converter I have to put it, it has a small ridge around the boss that sits in the end of the crank, this would allow it to self-align (or run at a slight angle).
The inputs to the gearbox would also allow a small amount of mis-alignment I guess. mr Ian would be best placed to advise if there could be any concerns for the gearbox itself.
At least now you know and I might be mistaken but the roll pins are the same on any LR gearbox, I might even have 2 myself if you get stuck.
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Should there be hollow "roll pins" around 2 of the studs then? I think that's what a V8 would have, if memory serves.
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Engine overun on a petrol causes some nasty emissions, so often it's controlled. Ealry on with dampers on the throttle and now by drive-by-wire systems.
How do you decide what the equivelent petrol and deisel engine is? by capacity, by power? On the LR the TDi has a lower 1st gear, this will make a difference.
Several manufacturers of trucks use engine braking devices, they have been around since the 30's and restrict the flow of exhaust gas, turning the engine into a big pump that absorbes lots of energy.
On a car, I'd hate to say. I think the gearing on the LR is what makes the difference. My micra DCi has little engine braking compared to it but about the same as a 1300 Fiesta. Unlike a petrol though the fuel pump cuts the fuel on over-run, not all petrol engines do that.
To answer it definitively would need a dynomometer.
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If the starter is good you hardly need any real power, mine will start with the battery form my Micra, and they are so small you can juggle them (assuming basic juggling skills
)Is the 063 the same size as 069? what's if off?
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I've not had many apart but the 3.9/4.2RRC looks like the above (page 1). The starter plate has teeth on it, the flex plate or drive plate sits behind it. The 4.6 gearbox/flywheel/Torque converter I'm converitng my LSE with is very different becasue the TC sits way closer to the engine. It still has 2 plates though!
As for the 300TDi, all I know for sure is it has the smallest of the 3 TCs available which is as thick as the medium one fitted to 3.9/4.0V8s and later 4.6s (gems?) and I think it still has 2 plates.
We've got one but it's never broken down.
Just seen the pictures of yours, looks a mess
Can you tell what let go first?Here's a tip my mate showed me, if I ever split an auto box I use the drain hole at the bottom and once I have all the flex plate bolts out I draw a circle on the TC around the drain/access hole so I can tell if it's moved. If it drops out and you don't spin it it should re-engage with the oil pump (though most of the ones Phil did at the farm never went back together again).
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My mate is a tester and he always recomends a change of oil too.
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AFAIK the imperial pump was differnet in apearence, the sealed "canister" type fitted to EFi onwards cars is metric.
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One more thing on the list of stuff to do when i get a day off then.............................................
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How big can you go without modifying the PAS system then?
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Later 300 DIsco and RRC should have a concave rubber bush stuffed into the cup on the axle, it improves NVH and that.
As siad a totalpain to fit into a rusty cup, I stuff them in a with a screwdriver before fitting the shock.
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I'm doing the same with Blue, but it's taking a long long time. hopefully the kids will be big enough to go with us when I get it finished.
But I'm another convert to the Auto, it makes more sense on a big engine
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165 upwards if you let the oil get around the engine, my LSE will pul 210 once warm. I'm on my thrid tester.
compared to Paddocksbut EBC do a standard pad and disk for half the price of a perfomance part, so perhaps £60 for the front disks if I read correctly.
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Can you tell what let go first?
Engine braking: petrol vs diesel
in International Forum
Posted
Not exaclty, a petrol engine pumps air against the restriction of the throttle plate, so it absorbs more energy, this is referred to a "pumping loss".