Range Rover Blues

P.S. nice looking truck, shame about that dent

IIRC the throttle pedal connects to the top so that when it pulls the butterfly opens against the spring. The second cable has a small collet to prevent it slipping too far inside the outer cable, this connects below the throttle shaft so that it is relaxed at idle and pulled out under acceleration. You can tweak the kickdown a little, as long as the cable isn't slack at idle or pulled to the end of its travel at full throttle, you can effect how sensitive the kickdown is.

Ah yes, all the cars we've had with the rubber coupling weren't lifted. 2 are on air and the other is our family car. The one that gets off-roaded, well very little of it is original anyway. I don't imagine the doughnut likes running at large angles for very long at all.

There are several on e-bay, some claim to be the original, others are probably copies. All the usual warning about buying from e-bay. I've bought one, not had time to fit it so I can't comment.

Yes I bought the timing kit last time I did one. So the alignment mark is a starting position before the belt is fully tensioned. That makes sense, many thanks.

I found the same on my wife's Fiesta. Anyway, there's a guy on E-Bay trades as LEDs for Classic Cars, based in Bristol.. He sells positive earth bulbs for old cars. They are more expensive than Chinese parts, but you get what you pay for, every bulb I've had form him has been, well brilliant really and the stop/tail bulbs have a good difference between the 2 unlike some others I've had. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-POSITIVE-EARTH-BA15S-21W-LED-4014-30-SMD-REVERSING-BACK-UP-LIGHT-BULBS-P21W-/181780495444?hash=item2a52f63c54:g:udQAAOSwPCVX-sTW Some types he sells are even brighter, but they work fine in place of normal Tungsten bulbs. I've fitted them to our RRC and the tail light is now as bright as the stop light was, the stop light obviously much better. Also as some are coloured LEDs you get very RED lights, or very orange if that's what you fit.

Of course the entire body from a '94 car would fit on an '85 chassis with only a little modification. I have seen cars where the later doors are fitted, you need to cut the A and B posts out as these are different, then the doors, front wings and deck panel (below windscreen) are all changed together. Not for the faint-hearted!

On the R380 I machined 3mm off the switch to get it to work. Already it's playing up. I was very tempted to fit a micro switch to the top of the gearbox housing, but like all those good ideas I never have time.

I think Tomcat Motorsport used to make them. TBH I wasn't impressed with the PTFE coated ones, it wears to quickly so in future I'd prefer Chrome ones. That said, Britpart are better than they get credit for these days.

Have you seen how much they are asking on E-Bay these days Range Rover seats, trimmed with purest unobtainium.

On it's own, a vibration could be the flex plate on the torque converter has cracked. It's not uncommon and I think Ashcroft's now make a spring steel one as an upgrade. As a warning, if an old autobox suddenly get some TLC in the form of new oil, the detergent in the new oil lifts ingrained dirt and carries it to the governor, which acts like a centrifuge. It's again not uncommon for this to result in a gearbox failure, such as sticking in second for example, as the governor sticks. So if the box is suffering neglect I'd suggest a couple of changes of oil over the coming weeks, drop the oil without staring the engine too as the muck will settle in the sump.

I had an ARB compressor for my lockers and that had the tyre inflater kit on it too. It worked well enough on the tyres I had. I'd say if the EAS pump was free then give it a go, the EAS system runs at 10 bar, far more than you need for tyres so I think you'll be surprised how effective it is.

I've had 3 Soft dash/300 series Range rovers and i think they should all have the rubber coupling. The problem, most noticeable with the V8, is that when it's worn, repalcing the doughnut alone won't sort it out, there is a bush in the driveshaft to support the coupling, unlike a true Rotoflex. That said, in good condition they work perfectly and are supposed to absorb drivetrain noise etc as already said. Also, having had a 2" lift I'd have to say the Cardan joint from a TD5 makes a huge difference, that was with castor correction fitted though.

Hi Guys. I'm replacing a cam belt that sadly has snapped. I know I should have done it before now but it was still within the mileage window, what I didn't know was that it was not done correctly! Anyway, the engine might have survived and I'm putting it back together but when i line up the pulleys the camshaft pulley wants to be half a tooth off from the timing mark. I remember this happening last time I did one, is it common? any advice of which way to let it fall? there's a photo in the tech archive where it looks to be retarder half a tooth? Any advice would be great, thanks

Try the guys at Remote-Key. All I remember is they are black on the plug in, if I can find it I'll check which wires. I have a horrible fealling they change dependant on model year anyway. I do remember that on the white plug there are 3 pairs, one pair is the starter curcuit, the other is the horn circuit and the third is IIRC power for the alarm/CL

I understood the shift points would be different but I've often read contrary opinions, however the boxes themselves are the same thing, same gears as I understand too. Ashcroft's advise fitting the smaller V8 torque converter to a TDi as an upgrade, you might want to think about that as you have both parts.

You could try these. If you hunt around on the bay you might find the same connector broken down so you can fit your own wire to them, however for best results you need a really good crimping tool for the connector inserts.

I've had similar problems with our rather well worn 300TDi. I thought the turbo was going because whenever I drove it "enthusiastically" I would get exhaust smoke shortly afterwards. Having lost my sister's car to a runaway turbo I decided to fit a brand new core, only £110 anyway. Well once it was back on, new oil and all the other stuff they insist you do, the problem arose again. To cut a long one short it tuned out to be the cyclone breather, the engine does breath heavliy and although it appears to be ok, when the engine breathes hard it was snapping shut and pressurising the crankcase and head, as you found, the filler cap is holding back significant pressure. That shouldn't happen, and the effect was that the pressure in the crankcase was blowing oil from the turbo return out through the turbo oil seals. If you look closely at them they aren't really pressure seals and the main turbo bearing it what keep the oil pressure back, the oil flow is actually quite slow. If it stops smoking with the filler cap off then you may have the same problem I found. I've disconnected the oil breather pipe from the turbo and fitted a new catch tank that then vents under the floor, excessive engine breathing is another cause of engine runaway so this prevents the chance of that happening.

Now I'm curious. It'd be great of you could upload them, thanks

Surley if it's a solid truck then it's worth a rebore and 4 pistons? oh and a head skim. Probably sell for more with the work done.

Hey there. I'm having an awful sense of Deja-Vue about your question. You can get away with removing the alarm ECU and jumping one pair of wires so that it will start, but you'll have no central locking and possibly no interior lights.

The smaller pulley was common to the V8, though from the interim engine onward you can't use the short bodied V8 alternator. The large pulley was stopped at the same time as the soft dash RRC was dropped (including the interim V8). Is the 97-98 alternator still the same rating?

P.S. how were they modified? was it front or rear?

The alarm unit will lock and unlock the central locking by operating the sill button, I don't remember exactly but it shouldn't put the immobiliser on without the lock barrel switch. The T**d alarm ours came with only had the microswitch taken off the drivers door. One day the wife parked up at the shops with the baby in tow, got out and locked the car from the passengers side and was then stranded, not realising the significance of locking the passenger's door. Had to be rescued by a neighbour. You don't need to cut them off though, just unclip them and spin them round then clip them back in for later. There is a difference in the level of protection between the fob and the key, I think it's the ultrasonic. but both should immobilise the car whereas the sill button just locks all the doors allowing you to drive/keep driving. I think it's in RAVE, it might also be in the handbook. I'll have a look if I get chance unless someone beats me to it. TOP TIP, you need a mate to help as one of the inputs is to open the bonnet and all the inputs have to be done in sequence and quite quickly.

Nice