AdeParko

Whilst rebuilding the swivel ball on my 300tdi I've managed to lose the banjo bolt from where the brake line connects to the front caliper I've got flexible brake lines fitted by David at Llama 4x4 Does anyone know the thread size of the banjo bolt? Will it be M10x1? I've tried calling David to ask but can't get through. Trying to confirm so I can buy a replacement, as at the moment it's stuck int the garage with no brakes Any help would be greatly appreciated Many thanks Ade

Thanks for the replies In the diagram linked, it's the nuts as item 19 I've completely stripped the threads out of. Bolts seem ok, but won't know until I try some new nuts I've just come across this on the forum http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=83824 Same symptoms as me, but the replies then suggested it should be fine to 115nm Thanks Ade

I've replaced the ball joint on my rear A-frame today, but when tightening the 2x long bolts that hold the fulcrum bracket, I managed to strip the threads from the nuts The haynes manual says that they should be torqued to 176nm, but striped the nuts trying to get to this. Can anyone confirm if this is correct? Its now left me in another situation of not having any other 1/2" UNF nyloc nuts to replace them with. Does anyone know of any shops local to the West Lothian area that might stock them? Many thanks Ade

Does anyone know the diameter of the standard steering wheel from a 300tdi? I'm sat at work so unable to measure it myself but would really help my search for a new smaller wheel The one I'm looking at is 350mm, but unsure what thats like in comparison the original Thanks Ade

I'm needing to replace the lower spring cups on my 300tdi, but when trying to collate a list of new parts required including nuts and bolts, I cant seem to find if theres a nut and washer required beneath the cup? The diagram on the misrocat shows bolt 7, and washer 8 above the cup, but nothing below Can anyone please help? Thank Ade

Thanks for the replies As said, my figures were from when carried out with the seal in place If from you posts above that either 12-14 or 14-16 lbs are ok, should I expect to see greater resistance once the seal is fitted? Also, how is the resistance lowered? With more shims I suppose but I used all the new ones received in the kit and threw away the old ones. Do I need to buy more? It's was a Brit part kit used with timiken bearings Everything fitted perfect and the job went straight forward enough Thanks

yeah, measured with a spring gauge With seal fitted it was measuring about 8kg/18lb, but as said, that was with all the 4no. new shims fitted and top pin torqued down to 75nm

I rebuilt the swivel housings on my 1996 300tdi yesterday with a new ball, bearings, seals, etc... but when testing the preload it seemed high? and this was with all the shims fitted I carried on with the rebuild, but on completing I took it out for a test drive and noticed that the steering doesnt return back to center, the steering whould just continue in either left or right circles if you do not take the lock off yourself Is this related to the swivel preload values big slightly high? If it is, how do I get the preload lower? Was I meant to re-use the existing shims along with the 4no. new ones that came in the kit? Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks Ade

Yesterday, I went to work on rebuilding the swivel housing, and changing the CV joint on the front of my 300tdi, but cam across 2 problems PROBLEM 1 The 2 countersunk torx screws which go through the damper plate and bootom swivel pin http://s91.photobucket.com/user/R33Ade/media/swivelhousing.jpeg.html'> These seem to be fairly rusted and stuck. Does anyone know what size torx head they have? as I was stuggling to get any to fit. If I cant get them out, whats the next step? Is it possible to drill the head of the countersunb it allowing the removal of the damper and pin, giving good access to the bolt. Then maybe use the double nut method to remove the remainder of the bolt (are the bolts M8 thread?) Once removed, it it best to get some identical bolts to replace, or does anyone recommend to just use normal hex head bolts? PROBLEM 2 I have a non abs 1996 Discovery 1, and when looking on the copy of microcat I have, it list the part number needed as FTC3146, but upon searching the web it looks to have changed In the rimmerbros website, it says the part number is now TDB500280, as per the link below: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID009961 When it arrived, it looks like the photo below, which I would gues at being for an ABS model due to the teeth around the larger section, whereas my existing one is completley smooth I this OK to use on my non ABS version? Or do I need to send back to get it exchanged? Any help on my 2 problems would be greatly appreciated MAny thanks Ade

I've not really got any further with this as yet I was however reading the Haynes manual and tried to follow the test sequence detailed in there With the engine not running, I pumped the brake pedal and after a few presses the pedal was hard, no movement I then kept my foot on the pedal whilst starting the engine. The pedal then dropped slowly all the way to the floor From reading the haynes it should of dropped but only slightly before holding. Mine didn't do this, so does this indicate a fault? And what to? Thanks Ade

Jumped in the Disco this morning and the speedo needle started to jump about, and was erratic for a minute, and then just completely died Went out again the car, but there is still no speedo, just sitting at zero Rev counter is working perfectly normal Is it looking like the speed sender has broken? Its a 2.5 TD 1996 300tdi if that helps Thanks Ade

I dont think its a bleeding problem, I've never encountered any problems since using the Ezee Bleed Kit I'm also starting to think master cylinder, I might try overhauling that to see if theres any difference, as thats probaly also the cheaper option as well The way the Ezee Bleed works, by pressuring the top of the reservoir pot with air, if the master cylinder is faulty, could this causing the hissing noise?

Brake pedal is probably the opposite to feeling hard, it feels soft and spongy, and you have to put your foot right down to get it to brake If you pump the pedal while braking its better

No fluid loss

Hi, My brakes had started to feel useless, to the point where you were pressing the brake pedal right to floor just to get a bit braking going on I needed stripped everything down to find the one rear caliper partly seized and the other not moving, so replaced both the rear calipers with new Whilst there, I replaced all the wheel bearings, and also fitted new discs and pads all round Bled the brakes using my ezi-bleed kit, and was a breeze as usual using this Only thing I noticed is that when I connected the ezi-bleed to the master cylinder there is a hiss coming from the brake servo/master sylinder area? Took the car out for a test drive; drives better and stops a bit better, but still not what you would expect. Is there something else wrong? Anyone had any similar problems? I'm thinking it may be servo or master sylinder related Thanks Adwe

I've had this done in the past, and I'm sure the bodyshop added an something to the paint, so that the paint would flex with the arch, where as normal paint would crack and peel when flexing

I had to pull my front wing off this weekend to do some welding for the MOT I've now got a problem as how to re-fix the arch liner (the plastic arch that fits between the outer and inner wings) As soon as I removed the wing, the arch liner fell free from the wing; how is it meant to be attached? It looks like it may of had a sort of spider rivet? Can I use a normal rivet? if so, what size Then, with regards to the other side of the arch liner and attaching it to the inner arch. The plastic push in rivets I removed are all unusable. Do I need to buy some of the same to replace them, or is there something else I can use in there place I have some of the rivets spare that are used along the plastic sills/rear tread plate; can I use them? Any help would be greatly appreicated Thanks Ade

I've had a few problems recently where my key wont turn in the ignition barrel to start the engine. The key fits in the barrel perfectly, but sometimes just wont turn Last night it took over 30mins of wiggling to get it to turn. Tried WD40 in the barrel, but to no help I assume the only way to fix would be to change the barrel But I then assume that this will leave me a different key for the ignition, and would have to keep the original key to operate the doors/fuel cap Anyone else had this problem? Thanks Ade

I use this stuff: Works really well

Has anyone ever fitted any plastic arches to there 200/300tdi? I bought somw arches from Ebay to try and tidy up the exterior apperance of mine, but the instructions are useless I received 6 arches to suit my 5 door, and a roll of rubber seal. And the instruction say that I need some adhesive thats not provided with the arches, and give a LR part code for it Only thing, is the arches are hollow, so how do you bond them on the car? And where does the rubber seal go? Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks Ade

I came to remove the spare wheel from my 300tdi today, but after removing the cover I found that one of the nuts has a lock on it I asume that there is a seperate key to undo this, but didn't come with the cae when I bought it Has anyone ever removed one of these without a key or could advise the best way without destroying the wheel Thanks Ade

Thanks for all the help everyone, and putting my mind at ease I've ordered 5 new 235/70/16 AT tyres today

This rings true with the state of the mis-matched tyres on my Disco. THe outer edge of the tyres are badly worn compared to the inner and centre of the tyre. It would suggest that there has been too much flex in the side walls of the 255/265 tyres when say cornering due to the overhang dompered to the rim wheel width Interestingly, I found the information below on the Bridgestone website when looking around at tyre sites Looking at the freestyle alloys; they are 7" wide; so would a 205 tyre be better? Does anyone else run 205/R16's on alloys rather than steel wheels? Thanks Ade

From memory (at work at the moment), but I think the spare is a brand new Scorpion 255/65 R16 It looks wide on the freestyle alloy wheel, but is the 255/65 OK? I dont want the car to feel vague on a wide tyre especially when it will be used for towing the horses Its a shame with it being brand new - I was hoping that would be the correct size and then I could buy the rest to match it

The 300tdi Disco 1 that I bought seems to have diffent size tyres on each of the corners Its fitted with the freestyle alloys (spare as well) My question is, what size tyres should it have fitted? Or, which size of tyres would be the most ideal for my needs? The car is being repaired/restored to eventually be a tow car for the horses, so will see road use with the occassional muddy field Thanks Ade