piloti

Aha. Of course. Well I'm glad you got it home. I'm going to keep an eye on the cable ties for a while as where I am there are no bolts of the right size. Happy driving, Paul. God bless, Andy

Well done Paul, but I think I must have missed something. Glad it got you home, but why the recovery vehicle?

Likewise Paul

You've got me, I'm afraid, Paul. I guess you have tried driving gently with the cap on loosely like David suggested and check the expansion tank now and again. Good luck for tomorrow!

I agree, but would doubt it would be a cyl head issue, or it would be cool all of the time. Look into the expansion tank with the engine running to see if there are little bubbles. Good sign. If not, not sure .maybe ease out the rad inlet hose to see if you can tease any air out? Are you towing the caravan?

Yes that's right. It stops an airlock from happening. I presume the pressure in the pipe is quite low so the system can't shove it out. Easy enough to do. Hope it goes in okay. Did it come with the new nuts and bolts for the bottom fitting, or are you going to use Cable Ties, like me?

Well done Paul. Refitting is a doddle. The only thing to remember is to blow into the expansion tube till any coolant still in it empties into the expansion tank and is clear.

Hi Paul. Sorry for your troubles. I've just done one on my 2001 P38. It was a dog, but I managed it without special tools. The first prob will be the small bolts at the bottom corners of the rad. They locate in a confined space into brass nuts. Mine were so corroded I ended up grinding them out with a dremel. Took ages. The second is the viscous fan. Mine is a diesel so room is limited. In the end I got a local company to weld two spanners end to end so the reach was enough and used a socket on the alternator to stop the fan rotating. The viscous fan undoes easily, especially if you hit the spanner the right way! The cowling locates into the bottom of the rad, so once the fan is out it slips up easily. Then the rad comes right out. The oil cooler tubes are easy to undo. When you get the new rad you need to check the new bolts and nuts are included. Mine weren't, so cable ties will have to do till I can buy some new ones. It's a good time to check and replace the belts if they need it. I did mine and have kept the old ones in the back as spares. Hope it goes okay. God bless, Andy

Hi, The latest: I contacted Dennis Altman of Rover Ronovations. Very helpful. Ex-USA submariner in pneumatics. He said it was possible the NRVs. So after taking the valve block assembly out three times and checking the work I hd done, Lurch, the garage queen now sits up after 30sec - 2min and seems fine after that. It does lose about 6cm overnight, so I haven't found the leak, yet, but the car bimbles along happily once it's up and the pump cuts out some of the time, so it's not getting too hot. (No it's not the thermal cut-out). As q-rover says, it's not too demanding a job. A 12mm open spanner, an allen key and an 8mm and 13mm socket is all you need. Oh and a posidrive. Quite enjoyable really. Don't go to Rover! If I can do it, you can do it. Good luck.

Have added a backup system which has lifted the back enough to drive okay, (44cm from hub to wheel arch) but the from only about 2cm (41cm) despite the same pressure as the rear (60psi). Any ideas folks?

q-rover I have done the deed and it is probably worse now than before. The pump seal went okay (I managed to do it in situ as I didn't have the right Allen key for the screw on the crank) but I wasn't over-impressed with the replacement diaghragm seal in the Valve Block repair kit, so I put the other one back in. Cearly there is still an internal leak, so I guess that leaves the NRVs as chief suspect. All the air pipes seal well. I have checked heights with the free software, but as it pumps up (about 12 mins) the heights are all over the place. Front high, one minute and then on the stops with the back high a few minutes later. After half an hour or so it's down on the bump stops with no Christmas Tree beeping to suggest the ECU knows why. 'Elp! I have to do a 1000mile trip across Tanzania in 2 weeks.

Thanks Old Hand. I suspect I will take longer, but have half a day laid aside for it. We'll see!

'Calling all cars. Calling all cars... I have a 2001 P38 and am about to find homes for about 60 'O' Rings in the valve block ass'y. Here are one or two links people might find useful if you are considering doing this, too: http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/airsuspension/valveblock/photos.html http://glenhendry.blogspot.com/2010/12/range-rover-eas-valve-block-rebuild.htmlhttp://www.p38spares.co.uk/commerce/?page=item&itemnumber=1023 (pump rebuild)http://www.falconworks.net/EAS/ Q. Has anyone had a go at this job and has any useful tips to offer before springs disappear over my shoulder I can never find again? Ta.

I'll swap you! My garage queen, P38 2001 DT has been resurrected a few times with the EAS buddy. Pretty good get you home gadget. Today I just got hold of the EAS Unlock/Calibration software and the Cable for your laptop. Let's see what this can persuade the ECU to do. My numbers are all over the shop. Start at the fuse box and then, If you have squirted soapy water over the airsprings, reservior, Dryer and valve block assembly and there are no leaks, then it looks like an internal valve block leak. There is a kit with about 60 O rings in it you can get cheaply to renovate it, or refurbished VBAs off eBay for around £150+. Good luck! Let me know how you solve it. It might give me an idea!

Well, I'm answering my own question here as I have found out how to do it and I thought some of you guys would appreciate knowing how to get the DOM of your own Landy. Two guys, Richard and Derek seem switched on and are quick to help. It is a service you pay for. Cost me £25. For me it is worth it as I stand to have to pay Excise Duty of several thousand if I can't prove my car is still 9 years old. After 10 years the Tanzanian Customs aggregate your other duties and demand another 20%. Anyway, here are their details: WINNER: Gold Award for Regional Culture Heart of England Excellence in Tourism Awards 2010 WINNER: Best Temporary Exhibition for "Mini 50th Anniversary" from Renaissance West Midlands - Best of the West Awards 2010. SILVER (NATIONAL): Meet England Business Tourism 2008 SILVER (HEART OF ENGLAND): Excellence in Tourism Large Visitor Attraction 2008 SILVER (HEART OF ENGLAND): Excellence in Tourism Access for All 2008 For the latest information visit our website www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk Hope it helps

I am importing a 2001 RR DT into Tanzania. The ship it is in is due any time now and I need to know the EXACT date of Manufacture to see if can avoid the 10 year penalty of 20% they call Extra Excise Duty. The chassis number only gives the year. I have those details already. Heritage have told me the car is too young for their records. Tz Customs tell me the car will be hit with this awful Old Bangers Penalty. I can't seem to get anywhere on Rover Websites. Can anyone tell me how you do this? Thanks.