inaine
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Posts posted by inaine
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My new to me td5 engine has it seems, a completely scrap cylinder head
If it wasn't then it certainly is now. To cut a very long ranting 'kin story short does anyone know of a good second hand head anywhere? it needs to be an early type. or somewhere that sells re-con ones? i simply can't afford a new one 
Stevepm'd
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defender TB
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id buy a helicopter and foxtrot oscar clean out of the uk
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1.4 defender transfer box will sort it
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my nan can start my td5 with ease...getting in the td5 is her problem
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sounds like a good watch that.
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the block will heat up and the pump will turn mixing the cold rad water with the warmer block water and heating the bottom of the rad. until the stat is open the circuit won't be complete
remember that water temp isn't really engine temp as the oil has to warm up and this will take longer than the water. slight rises in water tep will be absorbed into the oil by only a few degrees.
My v8 serp with a working fan comes in and out in traffic due to heat soak and lack of flow.
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special one from ashcrofts, £250 exchange
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more luck than judgement, were a RHD country so very few LHD cars let alone parts
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weld the holes up, if ali then mig or tig, if steel or s/s then mig or tig. Can you weld? if not get it done.
as for your rack it sounds ok but with more ties to the trailer to stop the flexing up and down.
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Cheers for the replies.
For the example can we say the bolt is into the thread 12mm and the plate it's holding is also 12mm.
I've been searching google for calculations and i can see that it's
τ=F/A
Where τ = shear stress
F = Force applied in shear to the bolt
A = Area of the bolt
Most links say that shear force is .62 of the tensile force.
But what area ? in the 10mm bolt example, is it 8.5mm to use as the diameter?
G
yes
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could any one recommend what size box section I could use for this custom chassis im going to make, I know the topics old now but I haven't had the time to think about it etc. , but now I do. so if anyone's got any suggestion's would be great full
Tony
spaceframe ala thuglite, no chassis and the loads spread over the framework.
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filters / oil need changing if it sluggish to change when cold.
clunking could well be UJ's
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should start, if it doesnt, youve probably got gremlins deeper inside!
it be witchcraft i tell thee! electrickery! nasty stuff!!
If it was running fine prior to the pump and filter change then it will be imobiliseed, a weak battery and air. Purge with the 5 pumps and charge the battery. and foot flat to the floor when cranking it
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anyon compiled a list of whats what on a 110 as far as body bolts?
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Is there a new Defender on the way? 2015-ish?
Are any details, specs, pics (too early?)available from anywhere?
Landrover are unveiling the new defender at the Frankfurt motor show very soon.
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3 and 4's are still chassis cars so the repair side of things are the same.
But the 3 and 4's are indy suspension so not a real Landrover!
D2's are great, but have there issues
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great, would love to do that. the trailers a god send on a trip like that eh?
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they have gone down hill.
They also have £1308 of my money and have called today to tell me they can't get the doors as promised......i have to call back for a refund tomorrow!
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i've got a atandard one here if you want that but my moneys on a VNT from bell auto services
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Ok well then your best option is probably to buy new doors from Land Rover. All the aftermarket doors I've seen have been not of the best quality shall we say. The best I've seen are these ones, though I don't think they're the pressed late Td5 type. Parts are in Microcat like anything else, bear in mind you'll need all the accessory parts too of course (mechanisms/locks etc.) as the doors supplied will likely be bare. B-pillars/side frames can be bought new from Land Rover
To give you an idea of prices from L/R:
Post-2002 Td5 front doors range from £357 to £435 + VAT a side.
Post-2002 Td5 2nd row doors are £354 + VAT a side.
Post-2002 Td5 rear end doors are £328 + VAT
B-pillars/side frames are £473 + VAT a side.
Prices from Microcat 12/2009.
Totals at around £2,600 with the VAT. That's bare doors, without any of the internal plates, glazing, electrics or mechanical linkages. The aftermarket ones will obviously be cheaper (£1,100 + VAT for five doors from the website above) but they likely won't be the newer pressed steel type, may not be of the same quality, and will still need fitting out like the genuine doors.
I'm not trying to put you off, but I think your budget is a little optimistic if you want new!
Hope it's of some help anyway, good luck with the hunt. I am going to face the same problem when the time comes to putting my 110 back together, however I am going to go down the repaired 2nd hand route for reasons of cost and availability as above!
I have a fully working, if tatty 110 td5 already. it's cheap enough to allow me a restore and a repaint whilst still being financially viable.
so i have the door furniture.
thanks for looking up the parts on microcat, might be worth a call to a stealer to see whats what now.
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i have a budget and i'm not mincing about repairing doors, this is getting a pro respray and i will do this once and one only!
i expect to pay around £1200 for the parts, the b pillars i have may go again once stripped and checked
need leads to new doors please
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I've a 110 project that requires new panels
need 4 x td5 doors and a rear door.
would like new B pillars aswell.
have you seen or heard of any good deals on these?
If it wasn't then it certainly is now. To cut a very long ranting 'kin story short does anyone know of a good second hand head anywhere? it needs to be an early type. or somewhere that sells re-con ones? i simply can't afford a new one 
Steve
td5 110 defender rear loom
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Fitted later td5 bulkhead to my 110. I've noticed the plugs are diiferent. Should i change my rear loom to later one aswell? If not anyone rewired the plugs to fit?