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inaine

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Posts posted by inaine

  1. @ Inaine: It's a basic rodwelder, but it has the possibility of scratch TIG, the're no knobs to fiddle with, just on / off, amps and rod / TIG switch. gas is hand adjusted.

    If Ruuman would like to experiment with TIG, the torch, gastank and PRV have to be bought separate.

    It's mainly for pushing rods, but it does that very well up to 3,25 mm and 8mm steel.

    This inverter takes max. 16A, delivers 150A, it plugs in a socket, and all trade has it's price, this man's budget is limited and I try to suggest a solution.

    Kemppi has a great reputation, I use those inverters for 20 years with full satisfaction.

    They weld like a dream, and if mine ever breaks down, I'll buy myself a new one!

    fair enough, i was only really quoting my delta tbh.

    I'll stick it up for sale and see if theres any takers.

    As for ACDC Tig sets they are $$$$

    we got a 200 amp PI 200 watercooled migatronic here RRP £4700+VAT :huh:

    nothing wrong with a chinese set IMO for every now and again if you buy it from a local source that will guarentee / warrenty it for 12 months

  2. There will be bits you wanna Tig and bits you'll wanna Mig

    If wires expensive then Tig will work out cheaper, remember to cut the holes in the floor and drop the cage down to do round the top of the roof bars ;)

    If your not compitent on the Tig hire a synergic pulse mig, mine runs it in so well you can even program the ripples into the weld like Tig! :lol:

  3. try the purging procedure, ign on push throttle peddle down to floor 5 times, MIL light will flash, 30 sec purge will start

    with a boost / jump pack on the battery

    check the ecu harness etc

    check the earth from loom to gearbo and chassis

    check the oi to see if theres diesel in there

    is the car imobilsed, whats the status of the red light on the speedo

  4. if you suspect the turbo you an remove the hose and then spin the turbo with your fingers (switch the engine off first!) should have a bit of play, not loads of oil about etc.

    Have you tried the MAF? disconect and drive, it if no bteer the fitted one could be faulty

  5. Trev informed the LRA users prior to the change - you just needed to read his post. It's gone now so hey ho

    Trev hasn't sold the forum he has done a deal to keep it going, a bit like selling advertising space on a forum

    The format is being worked on and is improving every day

    However each to thier own

    don't you work for the same magazine?

  6. Worse than this :ph34r: Yes, it was pretty unstable (I know because I was driving!) I know why having read the above, mostly down to the nose sitting too high and also the centre of gravity of the fire engine was very high. Everything that passed us caused a wobble, as did every bump in the road and changes in direction. I kept my speed to 35mph average, 40mph max...very, very gentle braking did bring it back under control. Still, I shall not be repeating the experience and I shall be buying a drop plate for my towbar - it looked fine until the SLS levelled the vehicle :rolleyes:

    post-12723-0-75799300-1304620519_thumb.jpg

    thats nasty!

  7. Hi

    All electric windows have been fine until today when I had both rears down (2002 td5 ES). One came back up on demand but the drivers side rear didn't. Typical when I had left work early to set off early to drive cross country this evening. :angry: Have got panel off, and the motor makes a noise when you press 'down' (its now at the bottom on the stops), but when I press 'up' I get nothing - not even a click or anything. I have tried knocking the motor with a hammer etc whilst pressing the switch, and also pulling the glass up by hand but neither work. Any ideas? Due to the imminent journey I unbolted the motor/lifting mechanism and have duct taped the glass up so I could at least travel. Now on the other side of the UK writing this. I have tried both switches and get the same results.

    Jammed motor perhaps? (but why would it go down and not up?) Or could it be something else?

    Many thanks in advance

    James

    i got 2 x D2 window mechs here, they were bought for a 300 bet they sent later ones.

  8. Actually, it was a factory option - but it is really very rare...

    There are some pictures somewhere on here of a unit installed in a disco, on a thread asking about a rear load bay cover.

    I am afraid I don't know if it is linked into the vehicle aircon, although I would have thought a quick look underneath would allow you to see if there are any pipes running up to the compressor and aircon heat exchanger.

    Mark

    I stand corrected. When i heard japqan spec i assumed it was a 300.

    As Mark said above, it was a factory option.

    My mate had a 7-seater with it fitted and it moves the LH seat over into the load bay by quite a bit.

    My mate doesn't have his Discovery anymore, so here's some pics I found on the web -

    16869636.jpg

    16869640.jpg

    .

    i's leave it and buy a ute!

  9. All parts of the 110 are fine in general, I just want something more refined - comfier, quieter, better heating (A/C?), elbow room, economy... you get the picture. I know that I could address most of those points in one way or another but I also don't like the fact that the Landrover sits on the drive depreciating while it gets relatively little use.

    I currently use my T5 camper in preference to the LR as it is more comfortable, so I could retire the van to more occasional use (and camping!) and use a car-like 4x4 day to day and have pocket money left over from the LR to stick into the mortgage or do something sensible like buy a motorbike...

    This morning has brought news of a Freelander which may be within budget and ticks most of my boxes...

    Chris

    freelander 2 in morocco! fair play

  10. it all about nose weight and how the loads balanced IMO.

    I towed a car transporter with a 110 chassis back from sussex and got a real tank slapper on at 55 mph in the slow lane of the M25 due to the lorry tracks upsetting the trailer.

    I am old enough not to need a trailer licence but have had the training as i was shocking at reversing. it quite interesting to see how people don't make any adjustment for having 2 toone on the back, late braking, swerving lanes etc not good.

  11. it's about £500 per tonne ( metric so 1000kg) plus a few surcharges etc.

    i belive a chassis approx 200 kg so approx £100+. get it shot blasted and get the mud out the inside first.

    i'd like to do my 90 chassis before it needs a new one.

    pictures of the strip down etc please

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