Pastycrimper
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Posts posted by Pastycrimper
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OK my mistake...(Thanks Scotts90). Using one of these (https://shop.landreiziger.nl/modificatie/mods-in-a-box/elektronische-ventilator-aansturing-2575.html) gives full variable fan speed control but it is the main duct/flap into cab that stays open NOT the diverted flap like i started saying.
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On 27/12/2017 at 11:50 PM, Scotts90 said:
The flap also becomes defunct when fitting the Landreizeger variable fan module. There's been no noticeable difference in warm up time, the only downside is on the one warm-ish day we get up here in Scotland it can get a bit sweaty. Opening the bulkhead vents soon overwhelms any residual heat blown through the matrix when driving.
OK I think you know more than me here! This is what was planning on fitting (except I saw it on a Norwegian LR site). From what I can see when you use this the diverter flap becomes defunct - by defunct to you mean always held so that air diverts through the matrix.
As far as I know there are only two flaps/mechanical actions - the diverter flap which either pushes air around the matrix or through the matrix. The other flap just controls whether air can flow through the bulkhead and into the cab?
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My thinking is with the main flap closed (through bulkhead air-in) and the fan off, even in summer not much warm air will pass through the system. This way whenever I actuate the opening of the main flap it will always immediately be dry air which may help remove the issue I get when switching from hot to cold (the diverter flap) of getting a sudden "insta-steam-up" window effect. Not sure. It all depends on my first assumption that not much hot air will be pouring into the cab with the main flap closed and the fan off.
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11 hours ago, Snagger said:
Once you have it installed, try to get into the habit of switching it off as soon as the screen is clear. The timer relays stay on far too long for most conditions, certainly the UK, and that is why the elements start failing within a few years.
8 hours ago, Mo Murphy said:I do exactly as Mr. Snagger suggests and mine has only two failed threads both of which failed in the first year, the remainder have all survived the following 5 years which I put down to only using as required.
HTH
Mo
Useful advice, thanks. Aren't the timer relays adjustable?
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Thanks again.
I'm definitely going to restore this one. The matrix is still mint. I'm going to disable the diverter flap - lock it so that air is always flowing through matrix and do away with that control cable altogether. I've just seen a replacement cable controller which has the two way switch in it available as a variable resistor to control the motor (I'll post the link when I get it).
Worst part of the job is getting the old paint and rust off as I see it
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On 13/12/2017 at 12:05 AM, oneandtwo said:
Yes I have a few. I will dig one out tomorrow. shame I was just down the road from your Defender last weekend!
Ahoy. Thornton Breakers are sending down another one free of charge from an earlier (2001) TD5. Not sure what the condition will be like........
Has anyone ever tried refurbishing a the whole heater assembly. My old one looks largely riveted together. I am planning on wire brushing mine back to steel and rust priming and repainting but I guess it is also rusting from the inside.
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Just purchased a new (old) TD5 Bonnet which looks in good nick an the guy had a windscreen frame from TD5 which he said had no corrosion so I've got that arriving too.
Thanks Ralph. I'll be purchasing a new heated screen and I figured the electronics shouldn't be too hard.
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On 14/12/2017 at 5:50 AM, Snagger said:
You do realise that posting this is a statement of planning to defraud. don't you?
Yes. Truth is I am against all these people making false claims anyway. I've never really experienced the windscreen replacement element which varies greatly between policies. Doing the research I can get a new heated screen for not too much more and I prefer my clean sheet insurance.
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And of course my old frame is somewhat tatty too. Presumably sourcing a next to new one from a scrapper is the best way to go for one of these?
Maybe an good time to do the heated windscreen mod. I've heard talk of using windscreen insurance to get a replacement heated screen. I could buy a new surround, say I accidentally smashed my windscreen replacing the frame and ask for a heated screen replacement?
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On 08/12/2017 at 10:56 PM, Mutley said:
See what you've started Pastycrimper!?!......Hope you're pleased with yourself!?!
Sorry! There are some crazy threads out there on custom exhausts, and bore sizes and back pressures and damping and sound and and etc etc
Glad you've started one though because it would seem an obvious item for Defender lovers and not much info
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12 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
I did wonder when you said it was from a 2007. Hopefully they'll let you return it?
Indeed! Scrappers - he said it was off a late TD5 but did mention 2007 so I should have twigged and double checked!
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On 07/12/2017 at 11:35 PM, oneandtwo said:
How soon do you need a complete heater unit?
Hi, Well unfortunately the heater blower unit/assembly I just received from breakers is a Puma/TDCi type so no good to me. Do you have one available in good condition?
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On 08/12/2017 at 7:24 PM, CwazyWabbit said:
and this one compares the OEM system to a Double S showing detail of the bends.
Thanks CwazzyWabbit!
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My new problem is trying to get galvanised brackets that hold the door check straps (Front and rear). I mean the brackets that fix to the bulkhead for the fronts and the reinforcement plate plate and bracket that the rear check strap bolts to.
I fear there will be a few parts that go on here ungalavanised!
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One of the troubles I have is the vehicle is off the road so I need an exhaust system delivered to be fitted by me. From what I have read I see some happy customers who have just used bespoke custom exhaust firms but that wont work for me.
I'm planning on getting the Griffin 300TDI option with 3" downpipe to a centre box silencer and then straight through with no rear silencer and have the TD5 end pipe out the back rather than the old 300tdi side exit
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Regarding Exhausts:
I've just heard too much negative press about DOuble S systems. I'm sure they're fine but like Mutley I want a good one. I'm surprised to find very little on here or other forums about Griffin. Some on here have one but very little comments.
I've just been in touch with Twisted (!!) and they seem to do a nice one which still has flanged sections but this is only TD5 onwards....no 300tdi option.
Anyway I think I am just going to put faith in Griffin!
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12 hours ago, Mutley said:
Pastycrimper, sorry i can't offer any help or advice, but have been contemplating a stainless steel exhaust for the 90. Have just looked at the Double S web site on your advice about using the flange system. Very impressed must say so will keep them in mind for when mone and wifey allows!?!
Do you have a price for the parts for your 110 as this would give me so idea for doing the 90 300tdi plus save phoning them?
Cheers Andy
I'll confirm 100% shortly but I think £460 excluding delivery.
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18 hours ago, western said:
the bracket is just there to support the rear lower body, so the later version will do the same job with a rubber pad on top. it doesn't matter if the pad area is legthways or across,
YRM metal solutions might be able to help with the steering column brackets
for a complete heater unit contact http://barneyproctor.wixsite.com/cornishwreckers
good to see you back on here.
20 hours ago, ianmayco68 said:Mines a 200tdi and it never had those brackets when I rebuilt her and I never fitted any when I put her back together and have had no problems. If you put BTR1116 in eBay there’s a new heater/blower and matrix for£360 plus£20 postage old stock manufacturer warranty has run out hope this helps . Try YRM for your galved bits .
cheers Ian
Cheers guys - this is great to know. I can still get the later brackets for cheapish......just not sure I can clean them down and galvanise them in time before I put the rear tub back on
@Ralph - Thanks for the Barney Proctor link - I had never heard of them! Good to know about. Are there any galvanisers left in Cornwall. I've been getting my stuff picked up from Newlyn and it goes up Deveon /Crediton way - about a 1 week turnaround.
My other option as it is quite a simple piece is to try and get something that will do the job fabricated in decent thick guage Stainless steel
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Wow. I don't post for ages...ask a few questions, go to the pub, wake up and the forum provides........
I'll discuss exhausts below. In the meantime I managed to get yesterday from Thorntons 4x4 breakers an upper and lower steering column sections of a 2016 TDCi and also a heater blower off a 2007 TDI delivered for £100. Hopefully the heater box is still in good nick. I also stumbled across these people - Landrover Refurb (http://www.lr-refurb.co.uk/) who have the steering column brackets galvanised! I've used YRM loads as well!
12 hours ago, oneandtwo said:How soon do you need a complete heater unit?
I'm expecting the one from scrappers on Monday - if it really is carp I'll get in touch! I'm hoping to finalise the complete build over the next two weeks.
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Hi All,
Sorry for semi-long-winded post. It's been a long time since on the forums. A long story which I will explain when I upload my rebuild blog in the members vehicle section when everything is complete, including references and thanks to forum members whose advice has been invaluable. And I have been abusing my supporting membership so I have just lobbed another 20 quid donation to LR4x4 (out of thanks not guilt). Anyway the rolling chassis is up and I am have just a few hurdles to resolve:
- Stainless Steel Exhausts - Seems like Double S hold the market. I'm looking at Griffin performance ones as well. My only thoughts being that SS use sections with flanges (I think) like the original whereas the other types are push fit sections that clamp. I have had friends with the latter who have found it next to impossible to disassemble a pushfit/clamp one at a later date. Any opinions on decent stainless exhausts for a 110
- Strange bracket that sits between A-frame chassis cross member and underside of rear tub. Picture one shows my old vehicle. Picture 2 shows new chassis and where the bracket goes. I believe the original part number is NRC5478 which looks like picture 3 but this seems unavailable and is superseded by KVU101430 which looks different (picture 4).
- Where can I get (galvanised preferably) the the upper and lower brackets that fit the upper steering column to the bulkhead
- I'm struggling to get an entire heater blower/matrix/fan assembly unit (I have a feeling this is going to burn me!)
Any help on the above greatly welcomed. Suddenly everything is happening! Just these last few bits and she should be back on the road!!!!!!
Cheers
Ziggy
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whats wrong with your old one, do you still have it? I might be interested in a small bit if its scrap? some b'std caught my n/s corner, not too bad, but need the vertical capping and a small section near the top curve, so I can cut out the dent, and pop rivet a piece back in.
My one has (had) a roller shutter cabinet just forward of the passenger wheel arch which is completely rotten beyond and also a few scuffs elsewhere. I either replace the whole tub with prefarably a newer better condition one or get a repair panel for my one.
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Very quickly!
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I think ebay will be the place from private sellers......just the patience
Most of the breakers I have spoken to just laugh!
Trouble is I really want to start the rebuild next week.
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Crook Brother(s) - dunno which one was very helpful but alas no rear tubs
Apparently Landiman is in prison......
Trawling through breakers now.....
Final help and opinions for my 110 300tdi rebuild
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I've just gt back from sea....turns out the chap who sells these is 5km frm the Dutch offices I work for in Dordrecht. A very nice chap I must say.
But yes I agree with the comments - it doesn't make it faster. It just gives a a range rather than: 1 - Off, 2 - pointless fart, 3 - full hammer