land_rover_one_ten

Ok that sounds good. I might have a go at replacing front and back drive members and see if that helps. Do you know if you can replace the drive members without draining the axle?

Hi All I am trying to chase down a clunk when changing gear on my 1988 110 CSW. It could be bushes but I was suspecting the rear half shaft / drive flanges so jacked up one rear wheel and had a play. 1. I can see that there is movement between the drive flange and half shaft. Not much but can see them moving against each other. Also getting bubbles from the joint when I waggle the wheel! I am guessing that any movement here is bad and its time for new half shaft and flanges? 2. I am getting about 10 - 15 degrees movement from the diff. I can see the prop shaft is locked by the hand brake but the wheel still travels a fair bit back and forth before locking. Is this amount of play from the diff normal? So onto replacing the half shaft and flanges. I seem to be able to get original equipment flanges from Allmakes here: http://www.lrdirect.com/product.php?productid=33927&cat=&page=1 Can anyone confirm that these are indeed OEM? Now the half shaft seem to come in two flavours very cheap and ridiculously expensive! I think the parts I am after are FRC2455 and FRC2454. Original / Ashcroft and KAM are all too expensive so what make should I go for? Allmakes do one but it does not appear to be OEM: http://www.lrdirect.com/product.php?productid=33981&cat=&page=1 Does anyone know who does the OEM half shafts these days? Has anyone fitted an Allmakes or Bearmach half shaft which has done reasonable mileage? Cheers

Thanks guys. I think for now I have got away with it as my bolt and nut seems to be holding. I just concerns me that: a) Not all parts on my 110 are easily replaced. I had just presumed that everything would be replaceable off the shelf - even bits for the engine. b) It is so easy to strip the threads on the engine! Anyway I live and learn. Have just looked up helicoil - it looks like that could be the answer if I have to revisit the thermostat housing. Cheers

Well that was NOT fun! So today I decided to pop the new thermostat in my 200 tdi. All was going to plan - bolts came out with out shearing - cleaned up the surfaces - new thermostat and gasket in. ...tighten it all up being very careful as we are dealing with alloy - gasket still leaking so give it a nip - and strip the thread off the lower casing! A panicky call to the garage reveals two things - they are booked up for a week and the lower thermostat housings for 200 tdi's are not made any more!?!. Then a bit of luck - I had stripped the front of the three bolts and this is the only one that has space underneath and had a hole going all the way through.. So with a longer bolt with a nut on the end I managed to get the thermostat and gasket to seal. And the result? Big difference - the engine comes up to temperature much quicker, gets hotter 80+C, and sounds and feels smoother. My fan even kicked in! So questions: I really did not crank hard on the bolt but still managed to strip the thread. Do these things deteriorate with age? Is the 200tdi lower thermostat housing really that hard to replace. The part number is ERR492 - does anyone stock it? There is also ERR1499 which is the defender version would that fit?

Ok thanks. I will look in to getting hold of some TD5 progressive springs. Do you think I can get away with leaving the SLU in for now and just swapping the springs? I would then remove the SLU at a later date.

Hi All I am pretty sure the self levelling unit is shot on my 110 CSW. It runs pretty much level when empty but the back drops with even a modest load. Other defenders I have seen seem to run with the rear slightly higher than the front so my conclusion is the SLU is not working. I understand the best thing to do is fit the springs of a hard top 110 and remove the SLU. So I am thinking of fitting NRC6904 (Rear 110 Passenger side) on both sides as I want the truck to sit level and the passenger side is slightly shorter. Does this sound ok? My other thought was to fit the progressive springs off the TD5 era 110 (RKB101111). I believe they scrapped the SLU and fitted the same springs on both CSW and Hard Tops on the TD5. Would this work on my 1988 CSW? Has anyone tried this? Cheers

Ok - I reckon I will go with some braided hoses. Can someone confirm this is the one for my 1988 110: http://www.modworld.co.uk/land-rover-defender-110-metric-1983---1998-goodridge-braided-brake-hose-kit-2533-p.asp Seems like a good price.

Hmmm... Sounds like warm diesel is not such a good thing. I might have to rethink my setup! John - make sure you have the correct fuel filter on for a 300tdi. When I bough my 200tdi 110 it had TD5 fuel filter on it which was restricting the fuel flow. The change in performance with the correct fuel filter was very noticeable.

Hi All Just a quick update - I got the pipes swapped over this morning so that the rear is now primary - front secondary. The difference is subtle but I reckon it has made things better. Braking feels smoother and stronger. I even managed to lock the wheels up for the first time! There is still a fair amount of travel in the pedal despite the drums being adjusted up. To recap - new pads and disc on the front and shoes on the back. New master cylinder. All adjusted up. Is there anything else I can try? I have not done the brake hoses, should I replace those next? What about the braided ones do they make a difference?

Hi All I am planning on running a bit of SVO in my 200tdi. To help things along I am going to install a Fuel Filter Heat Exchanger: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fuel-Heat-Exchanger-suitable-for-Bio-Diesel_W0QQitemZ320514710260QQcategoryZ36631QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286.m7QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8377037812927113447 This should thin the SVO and take the pressure off the pump. My questions is what will this do when I am running on normal diesel? (Will probably run 100% diesel during cold months) Will warm diesel make the engine run better or worse? I know that some cars have fuel pre heaters as standard but am not clear why.

Hi guys Thanks for the info. Sounds like my fan behaviour is not that unusual! I reckon I will swap the thermostat just to be sure. Can someone confirm these are the correct parts for my 110 with disco 200tdi: ERR2803 - thermostat 88c ERR3682 - Gasket Do I need to buy genuine on this or can I risk pattern? Thanks

Hi All I have a disco 200tdi in my 1988 110. It had an electric fan fitted when it first arrived but this was strapped directly to the radiator and had holed it. I swapped the radiator and fabricated a frame for the fan to bolt onto. The problem was it had one of those copper thermostats that is stuffed into the radiator hose and I could not get it to seal properly. So I fitted one of these: http://www.x-eng.co.uk/X-Fan.asp I also have what appears to be a TIM temp gauge and (presumably) matched sender. With the old thermostat set-up my temp gauge always sat very low. It would read about 70c and then the fan would kick in and it would drop down to 65c. With the new X-fan set-up my engine gets warmer but now the fan never kicks in. The temp gauge reads around 75-80c but it has never got over 80c. Reading the x-fan thermostats info it says that it does not kick in until 88 degrees C which might explain why the fan has not come on yet. The problem is I am doubting either the x-fan themostat or the gauge and sender but not sure which is right? Does 75c-80c sound right for a 200tdi for this time of year? Will it only get to 88c when towing or something? Cheers!

Hi guys Many thanks for the info. I think we could be onto something here. Looking at the diagram in western's post my brake lines are definitely the wrong way around. They come out of the master cylinder ok but then go into a valve mounted on the body. When they come out of this valve they seem to be crossed over with the secondary line going to the rear. Looking at western's document - top right it looks like diagram B - so a PDWA valve. What should I do? get the lines coming out of the PDWA valve swapped so the primary line goes to the rear bakes? Can I get a replacement PDWA valve as the one on my 110 looks original and rather rusty! Do you think any of this could explain the rather poor braking?

Hi All I became the lucky owner of a 1988 110 CSW last year. So far I have only had to replace the gearbox, transfer box, radiator, rear shocks, brake master cylinder, front brake discs and pads, rear drum shoes and have the foot-well patched so I reckon I got a good one Anyway I have been trying to improve the brakes which were frankly terrifying to start with. It's a 1988 110 so has discs on the front and drums on the back. I have had new discs and pads on the front and new shoes on the back. The wheel bearings and drums have been adjusted. And today a new brake master cylinder was put in. Braking is much better but still not what I would call 'crisp'. There is still a lot of travel in the pedal before the brakes kick in. Anyway while looking at the brake pipes I noticed something which has me confused. On my 110 the way the pipes are arranged the front discs are on the primary circuit and the rear drums are on the secondary circuit. But looking on page 493 here it looks like the rear drums should be on the primary: http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/parts_books/110/6_vehicle_controls_brakes_fuel_air_p472-579.pdf Am I reading the diagram right? The garage is saying it is safer for front to be on primary but will swap it if I wish. What do people think? Is there a reason that Land Rover put the rear drums on the primary? Could this explain the travel in the pedal? Should I swap things around? Cheers!