jessejazza
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Posts posted by jessejazza
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On 3/2/2023 at 5:47 PM, Gazzar said:
It does sound like the MC is knackered.
I'd agree. I use a 0.75 MC with extended reservoir and that helps make the job easier. I'm not that experienced on LR but i fitted the slave cylinder without trouble. I put the extension reservoir on the brake MC as well. If you have the remote reservoir screw straight into the MC.... why didn't LR do that? If you have the 'bean can' [or plastic reservoir with hose connection] it could be slightly leaking and so you run out of fluid or possibly there is blockage in the line which restricts flow.
I've never used the bleeding devices and changed bleed nipples every 2-3 years. Just had a bitter experience with a car i am trying to get on the road [which has been sitting for 3 yrs whereby the bleed nipple on the calliper sheared when i undid it. Bleed nipples rust down the inside weakening them... always keep caps on.
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I wondered about chain grease. She has sat idle for sometime before my ownership I think. What the other comments refer to I don't know. I couldn't reply earlier as I work away from home.
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I need to replace my springs all round. Rear o/s cracked and others past their best. I was wondering what the best way was of providing maintenance to stop all the gunge getting into the leaves. Dosing regularly with diesel is one way I have read - just wondering what folk do. Ideally one needs to avoid attracting more dirt. [Decided against parabolics as I have come across a number of folk including a m8 who has had them crack.... and he didn't get his money back from Mountain when it changed hands.]
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8 hours ago, steve b said:
That sounds like it's in 4x4 in high range?
That means a risk of breaking diff/halfshaft.
Do you have any drive at all ? In low 4th for example - crank over in gear to check etc.
Steve b
Thing is it's just occasionally. As for drive... just checked. Yes - it seems the red lever has slipped... if the red lever is not fully forward one gets no drive. I'm still lost as to what the shreek can be which then clears. I've got to get her out and try and see. Trouble is I am a long distance lorry driver so away all week and don't really get the time to do domestic things until holidays. I'm going to have to try and get another motor to keep me going in the meantime.
Be grateful for any advice/help but I won't be able to reply now until next weekend.
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1 hour ago, secondjeremy said:
Have you stripped the splined joint in the propshaft?
Have you got an overdrive? {The clutch connecting it to the gearbox can strip}
Transfer box seldom gives trouble. S2/2a gearboxes can suffer from broken layshafts but S3 all-synchro are different. If the layshaft snaps the thing can still be driven in top - moving off in low ratio. (Test - don't drive far.)
Many thanks for your reply
a] no just been out to check
b] no - I know what you mean though as I have had other cars with overdrive.
c] Hopefully not transfer box then
One thing I forgot to mention was that I get a kind of jinking when a road is a little uneven like many here in Lincolnshire. Slowing right down seems to cure it. But again I am unsure what can cause that.
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The calamity has happened - last night suddenly all drive went. It can be difficult to determine where the noise is coming from - likely the gearbox or transfer box. I was very grateful for your comments; it was not the rear axle which I suspected as the grating noise would disappear - perhaps the bearings lacking oil until one has done a few hundred yards and then no noise. Yet noise would appear when one went round a smallish roundabout.
I have been looking at the manual to try to deduce the problem - someone mentioned likely to be the transfer box. What I don't follow is how the noise can disappear, then all seems fine. It would seem to be the gearbox and a knackered bearing possibly the main shaft. Clutch now does not engage and so the thrust bearing has gone.
It's cost me my job as it's my only transport - obviously I've got to them off but any advice/comments I'd be grateful for as I haven't done Landrovers before.
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On 6/20/2020 at 4:34 PM, Landrover17H said:
My notes from last fitment:
Fan belt is standard stock 88/109/2-5 Defender
Last belt was FAI 10AV1050
Size is 10 x 1050 (3/8" x 3'-5")
LAND ROVER SERIES 2/3 4CYL - Fan Belt (563132)COMPATIBLE VEHICLES
Defender All 2.25 and 2.5 naturally aspirated engines
SERIES 2 & 3, 4 CYLINDER ENGINES
Size is 10 x 1050 (3/8" x 3'-5")Gates 6222MC
BLUE PRINT AD10V1050
DAYCO 10A1050C
MEYLE AVX10X1050
MEYLE 052 010 1050
Dayco 10A1050C
Contitech AVX10x1050
BOSCH 1 987 947 656???Also fits:
Porsche 924
Rover 825Thanks - I'll note those in my file.
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12 hours ago, Cornish Rattler said:
Mite look into getting a brighter GPS speedo as the one i have is quite dim in daylight but other than that everythings working great 🙂
Yes I also found that - rewired the light to permanent when ignition on. No problem then.
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5 hours ago, Romahomepete said:
Measure the distance round all the pulleys and go to your local bearing supplier, he will be able to get a v belt to fit that is cheaper than a normal fan belt. If you can work out the sizing you can also buy from Ebay. Have you checked that your pulleys are in line as that is the most common cause of belts shredding.
Peter
Thanks for your reply. I tried another motor factor after my local agriculture supplier couldn't help (farm machinery have loads of V-belts) and he had the right belt 1050mm in length Gates 6222MC and that is fine for both alternator and dynamo (as I have both on vehicles I checked for anyone interested.
I have done sizing in the past but even a 10-15mm difference is quite a lot. Its my everyday motor, I had to sort something quick and thankfully managed. As for the shredding; the pulleys were cleaned before fitting, checked alignment which you've suggested - the belt was cheap carp from a LR supplier. Surprise surprise - I tend to change belts as routine 2 yearly so haven't had this before in 30 years motoring.
A new belt of substandard rubber is not worth fitting. Buy cheap and buy four times over costs twice as much as buying right in the first place!
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I'd be grateful if someone could advise on fan belt length. I was going to a job interview today and the temp gauge suddenly soared - managed to pull into a lane before the temp gauge got to red. Fan belt had shredded/ broken. It was new one Allmakes 2829 miles ago - bought from a landrover parts garage. Not to state the obvious but I am fuming!
When I fitted it - it seemed a bit tight and I had to use a screwdriver to lever it onto the pulley. But stretched ok... sometimes that seems to be the case on the cars I have worked on. My neighbour took me to Europarts and correct fan belt has turned out to be even shorter and 14mm wide instead of the expected 10mm. I attempted to fit the 14mm belt but far too short. Alternator 17ACR with 70mm pulley.
I went to my S2 LWB 1968 (dynamo) and the S3 1971 SWB (alternator and seems original wiring not upgraded from a dynamo... if any of that vintage were fitted as such) to measure the pulleys and compare.
waterpump and crankshaft pulley 133 mm diameter on both motors.
S2 dynamo pulley 70mm dia
S3 alternator 70mm dia compared with other alternators (from other cars Fords I have in the junk box 65mm).
My query:
1] Have I got correct pulleys fitted - both vehicles I have are original to the best of my knowledge. Was it a case with LR at the time that they fitted the same pulleys to both dynamo and alternator motors. I thought a dynamo had larger crankshaft pulleys as the dynamo had to have faster rotation?
2] It would seem that the fan belt width is 10mm and this 14mm item from Europarts is wrong.
3] From what I can deduce the difference of the 70mm dynamo pulley and an alternator pulley (presumably 65mm like other ACR) would indicate that the CORRECT fan belt is the same for both types of generator. There is space for the alternator to be pushed out - I am just wondering if that's the case.
Tomorrow early morning - I am going to fit the LWB fan belt and hope that can last me a few days until I've got another from a LR supplier.
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On 6/14/2020 at 11:56 PM, Anderzander said:
I’m waiting until its back on and running ! 😊
No leaks and seems to be ok. Honest!😀😀
Now got to turn my attention to other trouble!
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17 hours ago, Snagger said:
Out of curiosity, the paper gaskets for the drive flanges - were they the thin, smooth paper or thick and a little rough, like thin card board? The thick type tends to compress after a short while and needs the bolts nipping up again, but do allow better for damaged or warped faces. The thin gaskets don’t shrink like that, but do need smooth faces to seal against.
Thin smooth paper type. With paper gaskets I always have used a smear of grease on any motor. It would seem that some hylomar to help seal against any imperfections are worthwhile. New to LR so still finding out the necessary quirks that one needs to acquire. Many thanks.
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On 6/4/2020 at 3:39 PM, Snagger said:
That is a bad leak from the hub seal. As I said, I thought you’d tamed that.
If you are sure you don’t have a comparability issue between the era of stub axle and seal land and the seal that you’re using, then it could be a manufacturing flaw with the seal lands. They’re aftermarket, being stainless, so while stainless would be fantastic for avoiding the pitting that happens later and hopefully good for reducing the groove cutting if the seal, being harder, there is an increased chance of them being an incorrect size. I would check a new, uninstalled seal over them to see how tight they are - they shouldn’t just slip on.
The leather and rubber seals contact roughly the same spot on the seal land, so I don’t quite follow the comment above about metal contact. Both types should sit firmly in the hub, with either a rubber or leather lip running on the land.
It’s worth checking the measurements of the hub distance from the brake back plate and the seal from the back edge of the hub so that you can check that the seal lip is fully engaged on the land. If pressed too far in, the lip may be running on the edge of the land, which would cause trouble.
Clutching at straws, but you definitely fit the right way around, didn’t you? Hollow side toward the bearing, flat side toward the diff...
As for the exterior leaks, make sure the groove for the o- ring Is clean and undamaged, and check the cone for roundness and scoring. Fit a new o-ring and all should be good, but I’d not be surprised if Britpart sell cheap o-rings with too thin a section that doesn’t seal correctly.
Replaced both sides hub seals this weekend. The o/s had a synthetic one but I don't think I tapped it in far enough. The n/s had the metal and leather - it would seem it hadn't sealed. What I don't follow is the metal and leather seal is thicker than the synthetic one so maybe does not seal against the land... but I will only fit the synthetic ones now. The front oil leak may have come from the thin paper gasket which I have replaced using hylomar as well.
Seems to have sealed this time so many thanks for your help and advice.
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17 minutes ago, Cornish Rattler said:
Took the landy out for a run today to test the new gauges and they all worked fine and checked to see how fast it would go and it topped out at 90 mph but my cruising speed is 75 mph so quite pleased with that
90 mph - gulp I've managed to make 60mph at best effort!
I also have a GPS speedo - think we have the same model and I have been pleased with mine. I found the speedo cable securing screw had been sheared and so fitting a GPS speedo was the better option compared with taking out and dismantling the g'box to drill out the stud. I'm pleased with mine and will be fitting one to my kitcar build.
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1 hour ago, 2a-Egg said:
@jessejazza my top cap on the rocker goes into the air pipe and into the carb. The zenith would of had a separate inlet for the second pipe. So at present its just sat in the engine bay and not alot comes outbor goes into it.. Joys of newer carbs not having the ports the old ones did
Ok - so you could get a 'T' piece and that would solve the issue. The vapour that comes out of the pipe will spread oily deposits under the bonnet area so it is worth doing. In my pic you can see some on the metal tube - I put it there with the thought that oil would deposit on the chassis and not do much harm. I thought about cutting a hole in the filter for the breather pipe but as I am intending to return to the oil filter I decided not to bother. Hopefully she is off the road late summer.
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I assume you haven't got the adapter that goes under the Zenith... so your carb is fitted sideways. I have a 34 ICH fitted to my S3 which replaced the Zenith. The adapter does have a nozzle to take the hose from the rocker cover and filler tube. However on my LR I found at idle it sucked in oil due to the higher vacuum compared with running down the road. I found this the same with another car - it would seem that there is too much suction on the carb but the air box is fine. There may be a blank on the inlet manifold that one could remove and plumb into but I think you would find the problem I had. These K&N filters are poor - nothing to beat a paper type enclosed in an air box... or in LR case the oil filter.
At present I have just taken the two tubes to a 'T' piece and then a tube to a place in the wing and secured it through the LH steering box holes. [Blanked off the adapter nozzle tube with a bolt for now as you can see in the pic]. This vents engine emission to the wing which is better than the engine bay as it can find its way into the cab. Ideally one does have an obligation to plumb things so that the engine eats its own fumes - however the air filter that one can install for the 34 ICH does not allow for this. I wanted to put the original oil filter on (which does have an inlet pipe for the fumes) but the mounting has been removed and battery tray extended. I will be doing more serious resto work once my kit car is on the road and so I plan to do the oil filter setup then as it will involve taking the wing off.
Couple of pics attached. The other two hoses are for my artic heater... again plans are in place for a better install once I have her off the road.
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1 hour ago, Gazzar said:
Did you soak the leather seals first? I prefer the rubber versions, the leather leaks unless the vehicle is used a lot.
And don't use moly, I've heard reports of it doing strange things to wheel bearings. LM will sort itself out with the oil, don't worry about it.
I did soak the leather ones for an hour or so in engine oil but maybe that was not long enough. But I still don't see how it can seal as well as the rubber type. I didn't use moly - like you i don't like it... just using up a tin I bought years ago as copaslip. I'll use a smear of LM on the bearings and hopefully she will be sorted. Just waiting for the courier.
many thanks for the help.
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When I did the front I pressed the seals down (rubber type) and they were about 1-2mm recessed which is what folk have said. They are clearly fine.
When I did the rear FIRST time I did not put them fully down and left them flush as the Haynes resto manual says. I didn't notice a leak at the time but as I had the drums off a couple of weeks later - I thought I had not put them down far enough like I did with the front. So on second thoughts (and retrograde thoughts!) I put the RTC3510L type on the rear as I had them. One guy said he thought they were better so I put them on. As you can see in the pics this morning the metal/leather type clearly are NOT sealing. Oil on the outside could be partially due to a paper gasket not fitted properly. I found one would not go over the holes correctly and had to expand a couple of holes and I think I broke the gasket... but put it on with a smear of grease. BUT there is still a lot of oil there so as Snagger suggests the 'O' ring is poor. The majority of oil is due to the seal not working.
Yesterday I've ordered a bearing/hub kit to do the whole rear job again along with new bearings.
What I don't understand is that if the metal/leather are supposed to work - it does not make a seal on the land, shaft or edge of the hub. The rubber seals (I call from my process plant engineering days) are mechanical seals. The oil pushes from behind forcing the seal against the shaft and the edge of the hub - rubber being ideal as it expands to make the seal when the oil is warm/hot. With leather/metal - it seals against the shaft with the leather expanding but not against the hub. Maybe I split the leather as I was fitting it and that is the cause of the leak. But by design there is no seal against the land or hub as it is metal.
Also should one use grease on the bearings and seating the rubber oil seal in the hub. I DID... because the manual says. But one is then restricting the amount of oil reaching the oil seal. The PO (or workshop) I noticed had used moly grease which had mostly washed out by the oil. I used LM grease which is thicker and tends to remain in the bearing race better. If the design was for the bearings to be lubricated by oil then one does not want to put grease in there as well.
As soon as I get the bits I will investigate... next week now probably.
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6 hours ago, jessejazza said:
Craddocks do a RTC3510 and leather/metal types RTC3510G and an RTC3510 (which is what I had before). Not sure how the RTC3510G differs as the pic is poor.
Sorry typo error RTC3510L
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Craddocks do a RTC3510 and leather/metal types RTC3510G and an RTC3510 (which is what I had before). Not sure how the RTC3510G differs as the pic is poor.
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13 hours ago, steve b said:
Is the special felt rubber faced seal fitted behind the halfshaft washer/nut?
Modern leather seals seem to be too hard in my experience
cheers
Steve b
Yes the felt seal is there. Modern leather seals? The original were the neoprene/rubber ones? All I can say is that the one's on the front rubber/neoprene work fine and so putting the leather type on was a mistake. The rubber/neoprene lip makes a seal but the leather/metal type just make a butt joint. Oil is on the inside of the drum so they're not making a seal.
So I'll get a pair of those rubber/neoprene type and replace. Hub caps I agree do help and are supposed to be on but in my case I left them off as replacements were required I didn't get round to fitting them when they arrived. They seem a pain to get off and get knackered in the process.
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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:
No hub cap?
I just didn't get round to putting them on - I wanted to make sure I'd done the job ok. Clearly somehow I haven't. Front is ok as you can see in the pic. If fitted the hub cap is not there to collect oil - just there for looks.
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On 4/15/2020 at 11:41 PM, Jon White said:
Ah yes sorry - I was slightly wrong. I knew the late ones were different but I incorrectly assumed they were the same bearings.
im aware that the late ones and the coiled ones all use the same seal, and I’ve used the proper tool as a friend has one.
I always found the leather seals much better on early hubs rather then the modern lipped seals.
[My LR is S3 1971 SWB].
I fitted the leather ones on the rear and from what I can deduce they are flush with the top of the hub. The rubber/neoprene ones on the front I found seemed to seat about 1-2 mm down.
BUT I seem to have the same trouble as the OP. Again as you can see in the pics the breather could be blocked which is causing oil to be forced out past the centre and the paper gasket for the hub may not have done it's job. Oil inside the drum as well. I am thinking I should replace the rear with rubber/neoprene?
Be grateful for any advice.
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On 5/27/2020 at 10:53 AM, Landrover17H said:
I've some pretty nasty plastic offerings, and looking to Lucas L594, this looks like a pricey job to swap-out all 16 units for glass beehives or similar. All in £200+ . Ouch.
To be rivet-counter correct, which is it? L488 or can we run to the cheaper L594?
L488 cf L594. They are same price (well +/- twopence). The unit is the same apart from the lens (obviously stop/tail has two contacts) for the sidelight one puts in the 5W bulb and indicator a 21W.
As for cost one can do it in stages - I've done the stop/tail but haven't got round to the rest as I am doing the same on my kitcar. The LR lights I have found one needs to replace about each year and worst of all water gets in. Another way of thinking is one is not paying road tax so there's £200 ready in the kitty.
The folk I know who stock them are Europaspares or AES https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/363/category/71
[There is also another firm Auto Electrical Spares which sell some Lucas stuff as well but not the same range as AES].
AES also do a lot of other useful stuff like almost all electrical wiring needs including the full set of Lucas switches which other folk do not.
Series 3 clutch bleeding
in Series Forum
Posted
I am grateful for those pics - i've thought about reverse bleeding but not tried it yet.