jessejazza
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Posts posted by jessejazza
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On 5/18/2020 at 7:53 AM, Romahomepete said:
You can fit either Sparto (unavailable or mega expensive) or Lucas L488 bases with either flat lenses or domed ones. The holes should be the right size for these. I have them on my 58 S2
Domed ones are the L594 - about £20 each but money well spent as waterproof and glass does not crack like the plastic. I've just replaced the stop/tail... will gradually replace all the plastic units.
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I couldn't get the relay to work as there were no instructions. As you say one is perhaps better off just to stay with a 2-pin arrangement. I found several whilst i was turning out some boxes - one works ok so up and running now.
Little bit annoyed that the switch was faulty - no juice on the green-red wire for n/s indicator. I got it as the current stalk is a bit worn but had to put it back on and I'll send the other one back.
No doubt cost me my job so I am not too happy at present. Wish I could go on furlough like other lucky souls and have 7 months holiday! Get the LR rewired and my kitcar on the road.
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Recommended by Paddocks one can fit these to an S3. Whilst being for LED (as it has variable speed) they can also go with the standard lights.
What I am not sure of is the correct connections out of the four available. I should have bought the BritPart 2 pin unit instead!
The pins are L, L1, and then (+) and (-). Which two to use? One is for the trailer if used (not in my case as the wiring has been removed). Another for hazard lights if fitted with switch - not in my case.
Placed the order on Sunday for Express delivery and get it today! Now haven't been to work since.
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On 4/23/2020 at 6:37 PM, Eightpot said:
Have used one of these which was very good: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324081684188
Though if I did another I'll probably just put a 300tdi manifold on.
Went to see him yesterday. What he's got is a 200 tdi with a 300 exhaust manifold (he says - I don't know as I have never looked into the diesel engine fitment). Thanks for your responses.
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Thanks for those I have passed them on.
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Just been round at a friend's who is fitting a TDI in his series LWB. The exhaust manifold is very close to the engine mount and presumably there is a mod folk have done to get round this. If anyone has one I'd be grateful for a pic to pass on to him.
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I used to specify paint coatings for process plant. Duralumin needs an etch primer. Without any paint coating will lift in time.
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Many thanks for your help. Haven't looked at lrdirect - very useful they list the different makes of parts (and prices) they stock. I'll leave the front propshaft off for the moment. Just been looking at the rear this afternoon and wonder if the spline is rusted up which means that there is no lateral movement... I'll jack it up and explore.
Discovered another problem which I'll put in another post.
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On 2/26/2020 at 9:07 AM, steve b said:
Check the bearings that support the drive shafts - bush in stub axle and a bearing in the back of the swivel housing . Remove the front prop and take it for a run - while it's off check the uj's and sliding joint action and alignment.
cheers
Steve b
Got the prop off and found there was slight wear in a UJ which may be enough to be the main trouble. She was much quieter I must say but as I have now realised a LR will always be a bit noisy compared with other motors as there is no insulation. To some extent as she's my only motor to get to work in I am worrying a bit. Many thanks for the replies and suggestions.
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On 3/9/2020 at 5:51 AM, Snagger said:
ACR in Glasgow do all sorts of tuning for the 2.25, including the manifolds you’re after (and 2.8 stroking, performance heads, cams and a whole lot of tempting but expensive smile inducers).
The HRTC gives a 32% step up, compared to an overdrive’s 28%. 3.54 diffs give about 35%. The big difference practically is that the diff swap screws up the speedo, so that needs recalibration, and also affects low range, while the HRTC and overdrive leave the speedo as accurate as it ever was (mine was set very well by JDO1.com). The HRTC leaves low range useful, and of course overdrive is selectable and so entirely flexible.
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Not that I am any expert but thought it was worth mentioning a GPS digital speedo about £50 (52mm dia). No setting up required (apart from wiring in) and I have found it accurate. Insurance company quite happy and in favour. In my case I found the PO had sheared a speedo cable screw which means to rectify taking out gearbox and attempting to drill out and retap the hole which is a lot of work. a job I am unlikely to get round to for a long while as the LR is my only motor on the road. I'm pleased with it and will do the same on my kitcar. If you'd like a wiring diagram PM me.
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6 hours ago, secondjeremy said:
How old is the vehicle? Does it have an early transfer box?
{Early (pre about 1963) suffer from wear of the transfer box intermediate gear shaft and roller bearings. Its relatively easy to cure - the box doesn't have to come out - problem is that the bearings are virtually unobtainable although the shaft was available. If it wears the thing tends to howl when driven - the noise rising with vehicle speed. The noise will seem to be coming from the centre seat. Land Rover cured the problem by massively increasing the size of most of the shaft and the roller bearings - which unusually for Rover - worked. Bits for the later box are relatively cheap. You can't fit later parts to an earlier box.}
Using low ratio means that the gear at the back of the intermediate shaft is used as well as the front one. 2WD uses the front gear only.
1971 S3 SWB. Not sure of the technicalities. I'll have to investigate on Mon or Tue which are my days off. I don't know any LR folk in the area as I haven't been in Lincs that long. Many thanks for your posts - I'm a HGV driver so I do long days.
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10 hours ago, rtbarton said:
All the same bits rotate in 2WD and 4WD, the only difference is that in 4WD the front & rear axles are connected together, so with standard hubs I see no point in engaging 4WD once a month to splash oil around, it would ensure that the gear linkages &c don't seize up due to lack of use though. If you have freewheeling hubs it wouldn't do any harm to engage them occasionally to splash the oil about a bit.
If you run in 4WD on tarmac the transmission will wind up due to the very slight difference in speed between the front & rear propshafts. This winding up will eventually cause transmission damage, but before it does all the backlash in the gears will be taken up, making the transmission quieter.
Many thanks for your reply.
I drove her a short distance to the corner shop last evening in 4WD. This afternoon I had to do my main shop (about a 12 mile round trip) and put her into 2WD for the trip. Much quieter going there but on the way back she started to get noisy again. So if I have backlash due to wear in the crown and pinion presumably due to previous owners not checking oil level? I wondered if the bearing had gone in the n/s swivel joint. Checked the propshafts for wear and they seem ok.
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I am trying to identify the cause of transmission/axle noise. When in 2WD I find she is noisy. Checked oil levels in the gearbox, changeover box, front and rear axles, wheel bearings front and rear. With a landy one should use 4WD I gather at least once a month just to get the oil round (standard hubs not free wheeling) - and I find in 4WD she is beautifully quiet by comparison. It seems one can only use 4WD at low speeds due to the gearing.
Just be grateful for suggestions for investigation as I am relatively new to a LR. If anything in 4WD she should be noisy as there are two diffs in use but it is with 2WD that I get noise.
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On 2/18/2020 at 5:39 PM, Snagger said:
It won’t be an issue if you can keep the vehicle speed up, but as soon as you have low speed in warm temperatures, then that is when the fan is needed, and if it isn’t shrouded, it’ll be fairly ineffective.
Thanks for the advice. I will obtain the necessary bolts/screws and get it fitted later in the Summer. I am hoping to take her off the road for a while to get some resto done.
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On 12/16/2019 at 3:09 PM, Snagger said:
Steve makes a good point - there are quite a few people advising owners to remove the fan, especially on Tdis. Some people fit electric fans, and some of those may be too small, maladjusted, set too far from the rad or have other problems making them ineffective. But as Steve mentions, the cowl is also important - not so much the steel bit behind the fan, but certainly the plastic part that is screwed to the rad. Without it, the fan just stirs the air behind the rad instead of pulling air through it.
You also need to check the water pump and replace the thermostat. A three row rad should keep even a hard working 2.25 cool in the current UK weather.
Found the water pump leaking early last week. Found a choice of replacement - From JC one has red britpart or blue britpart... so I robbed the one off the LWB and been fine so far. Also found the cowl screws a bit poor and decided to leave the cowl off. However despite your warning I haven't noticed any difference on the temp gauge without it. may be more necessary in the summer
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20 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
The dash lights (on other cars obviously, not a land rover) can interfere with your night vision on the road, especially on wet unlit roads.
I used to turn them down quite often at night in a few older cars I had at night, made a big difference especially when some of them still had tungsten bulbs
Thanks for explaining I understand now.
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Thanks for your replies and I apologise for not replying sooner but I work Wed til Sun (Mon and Tue off). Driving a truck I get back late in the evenings and don't get time to go online (or like this past week just utterly knackered).
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On 2/3/2020 at 10:49 AM, Bowie69 said:
Very useful when driving at night on unlit roads.
How - i don't follow?
The only reason I can think of wanting to have the dash lights off is to save eye strain on long distance trips. I drive a truck and wear night driving glasses and they certainly help (10+ hours of night driving is tiring) - admittedly oncoming headlights are the primary cause. In a truck one can change the dash light brightness and I suppose that is what LR were thinking of.
But then again - I wouldn't be driving a Series LR for hours!
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Whilst the indicator works ok the stalk seems to have a waggle of about an inch.... I read elsewhere that other folk have found the same even with new. Is there an alternative (e.g. from kit car supplies) that folk have found better.... maybe one would have to mount a push button for the horn but I have seen an indicator only stalk that may be worth considering. Other solution would be to fit a 3-way switch for indicators like some kit cars have.
Also I'd be grateful if someone could tell me
a] what the light is for between the two main dials
b] the two inner switches on the right (the outer ones being lights (top) and wipers (lower down). One of those would be for the heater matrix fan but which?
c] bottom left - presumably to attach a +ve and -ve probe to check voltage or amps.
The reason I ask is I am contemplating making up a dash blank and putting in my choice of switches, lights and dials. The speedo cable screw is sheared on the box which means a removal to extract it - have a GPS digital speedo at present which works well. The fuel gauge is u/s and have another fitted. So I thought I might as well make up a different dash and put all dials back in one place. thanks
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As a former offshore paint coatings guy... my twopence worth! Galvanising is ok but one slight nick and the corrosion rate is then accelerated in that area.
Good quality paint goes a long way - a decent synthetic will give many years service but preparation is important to say the least. Galv or red primer is excellent stuff. If you want a primer better than that then Epoxy primer from International Paints (or similar offshore coatings supplier) will not disappoint unless you try and remove it. Once cured only way to remove is by use of a grinder... it is that good. What is not worth using is hammerite/smoothrite as it chips and not oil, grease, petrol, or brake fluid resistant.
Galvanising is not what it is cracked up to be. I need a new chassis for my LWB resto and if a non-galv one was available that is what I would go for with a coating of epoxy primer... it does not chip and degrade even in salt water (hence why it is used on offshore structures).
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7 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
So it was working until you fitted the last bits?
Most likely the condensor and maybe points assuming you have checked with a meter on the coil.
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1 hour ago, 2a-Egg said:
have changed leads and plugs a few months back then I did the coil, then the rotor arm and now the points and condenser. So not all at once, just listed out what has been changed.
So I'm thinking the brit part condenser could be a culprit. Or it's going to be user error and I've done something simple wrong.
Sorry - it looked like you had done them all in one go. No offence meant - I've renewed too much in one go in the past. BritPart I believe has another name - chinese and not worth the bother. Also the condensor insulation breaks down with time so cannot be stored for too long.
Here's the link and I'd strongly recommend one of these. I've had two for 20 years without a problem (transferred between cars). £12.30 plus p&p is money well spent. If you have a local electronics shop you could get the parts for much less and make up your own PCB.
http://www.velleman.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d31_Automotive.html
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2 hours ago, 2a-Egg said:
Right so I have changed
Coil
Leads
Points
Condenser
Plugs
And now no spark, so no brum brum... I've also now snapped a spark plug when undoing it. The car started absolutely fine before I changes the points and condenser. Also I replaced some switches on the dash before I did the condenser etc so could I of knocked a cable of blown a fuse.
I don't mean this unkindly in any way but as you have written.... you thought it would be wise to renew these items in one go. BUT check and replace individually as you go - with the exceptions (if she was ok before); leads and plugs. Component quality is suspect these days.
My bets are on a dud coil or condensor.
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Earthing wire for the contact plate? I can't see one.
You haven't said if you used a test light. If no light then either timing is out or LT circuit is dead. I put the test light on the coil terminal rather than trying to fix the clip on the contact plate. New coil? - modern ones from China... quite often u/s - use meter to check should be 3 ohms on the terminals (non ballast ignition)... bet you've a dud. (I had one from Powerspark). Only worth buying the Lucas Gold sports coils - or take your meter with you when you go to the motor factor. I've had two on cars which have now done 25 years. If they are working fine don't bother changing for Chinese stuff.
I always check the dizzy before I put it back in the hole. King lead off. That is: set the points to 15 thou in a vice, rotor arm on and cap. Earth lead to body and attach test light. Then turn on ignition and turn cog, and the test light will light as it should do 4 times for a complete rotation. Then hopefully working fine before you put the dizzy in the engine... saves you taking it out again.
Test light not showing; assuming you've checked the coil, then you have a problem with the points or condensor. About 4 years ago i recall finding I had 4 dud sets of points. China quality once again and these were marked Lucas... that doesn't mean much nowadays. Condensors! Do a little soldering for 1-1.5 hours and make yourself up a TAC circuit. Components cost about £12-£15 + a box and seal box with waterproof spray. 20 years later like me you won't have any condensor problems. Some folk like to spend money on optronic and Hall Effect systems but once again... chinese quality. Nothing to beat points and TAC setup BECAUSE you can test each individual part of the circuit.
The TAC components used to be sold by Maplin (for about 30 years) but now someone else does them and I can't recall at present who. I'll make you up a set if you don't fancy soldering.
Just found the details - now Velleman (I think it always was but Maplin used to sell them and now one has to go direct to Velleman. Just popped out to take a pic of the one in my kit car (there's one in the Landy but that's round the front and it's raining!).
Wipac WFL7LED - flasher unit for S3 - fitting instructions?
in Series Forum
Posted
All been a bitter experience for me I regret to say. I'm just spending the next 1-2 weeks working non stop on my kit car so I have reserve transport.