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Posts posted by 19MART82
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"lockers for go, articulation for show"!,totally agree,combine the 2 together though even better
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to much money,to much time! thats all i have to say,im now going to rinse my eyes with bleach!
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to be honest applying a little left foot braking with the lsd + boat to add some resistence may have kept him moveing
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i know its not the real world but it is something visual to compare open v lsd v locker
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totaly agree with the above ^^^^
here is a quote of a post i made back on page 1 which totaly proves my point seen as were now on page 5 - "theres no doubt this thread can go round and round in circles about the right or wrong way but its all about useing your head and useing what equipment you have/prefer safely"
and another quote by jai landrover which i think sums it up- "You can Bull**** alot in life, Nobody can bull**** experience.."
getting out there and doing it is the only real way to learn
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would the front springs have to be changed or do the engines weigh about the same??
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if its just general offroading like a few p&p's and a bit of greenlaneing i wouldnt bother with lockers,buy yourself a pair of 4 pin diffs which for a pair would probably cost about as much as 1 locker,they are bullet proof,i started out with these running standard shafts/ cv's and never had a problem or a drivetrain breakage.
if you are wanting to do a lot of offroading and can justify the cost then lockers all the way and the ashcroft is definatly worth everypenny,
i wouldnt bother with lsd/atb diffs unless your aiming at comp safari etc as soon as a wheel loses contact with the ground they will work as a open diff although you can get a some benefit from them useing left foot brakeing to add load but its more hassle than its worth,just my opinion
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ive allways had 200tdi engines but lately parts for the 200tdi defender engines are getting hard to get hold of and cost a lot more than the 300tdi parts which seem to be a lot more readily available
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What blue 90 ?
my mistake post edited
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ok so were talking about towing nothing to do with recovery? and you want to know how we'd recover the blue 110? right...
if i didnt decide to use the winch i would have gone to the back of my truck and made the decision whether to use one of the tow ropes or maybe the snatch strap or possibly one of the strops cos lets face it if i was in the bush 3 days from the nearest village i would BE PREPARED!
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theres no doubt aggressive tyres damage the ground,tyres like simex,silverstone,insa turbo etc are extreme challenge tyres,they are designed to cut through the soft stuff and are definatly overkill for greenlanes
even driveing accross soft ground with them will leave deep imprints of the tread and as you turn they will chew the grass or mud up,if you lose traction and the wheel spins they will dig down as this is what they are designed to do,thats why they are a challenge tyre and should not be used for greenlaneing in my opinion
i dont use my truck for greenlaneing and havent for a long time
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picture didnt show up when i first looked,different setup to defender engine sorry cant help
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discovery or defender engine?ive just fitted a new power steering pump belt on my 200tdi defender engine,the part no. is ETC5815 and it fits perfect,not sure if the 200tdi discovery belt is the same?
im not sure of the fan belt part no. sorry
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i know what you mean but to be honest im just going to cut my losses,personally i really like the KAM lockers and im more than happy with the one in the rear,and as you know ive been holding out for another for the front,but all this has put me off,ive since sourced and fitted an ARB locker in the front along with ashcroft shafts/cv's (although i did break the short shaft yesterday but i bought them second hand not knowing what use they'd had so totally accept responsibility),i will be ordering a new shaft along with a pair of rear shafts from ashcroft in the next day or so. its a shame really but from a buyers perspective i think customer service is just as important as the quality of the product and ashcroft tick both boxes
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the shafts are out for good now and are being replaced,exactly as you say it was allways in the back of my mind what could happen should they break,just thought it was only fair to mention what they'd stood up to.
still not had no reply to the pics i sent to kam though
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yep i can vouch for that,these were after 1 outing running 33" fedima scirroco's,although credit where credits due they didnt break
i thought it was only fair to add an update to this thread,these pictures were taken around 3 months ago and today ive finally removed these shafts to replace,i decided i wasnt going to replace these shafts untill they broke but they havent broke,nor have they twisted anymore than in the pics 3 month ago,around a month ago i fitted a brand new set of 35" silverstones and the truck has been used almost every weekend in the 3 month,offroad in anger,to be honest im quite surprised and as i said thought it was only fair to mention this
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I see,if you know someone with access to a TIG welder and bender i bet it wouldnt be hard to make one,if you got some 20mm stainlees round bar and 4-5mm backing plate,stainless is better with synthetic rope but ally might be a bit cheaper
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if you have a truck cab with cage couldnt you run the line through a normal hawse on the rear and weld a hoop onto the cage to pass the line through for the centre,i remember team idris (on here) did something similer
edit: few posts down, http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=69006&hl=&fromsearch=1
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first check the oil levels,if there is oil in there make sure its clean oil,look for oil weeping from the front output on the transfer box as the last 2 defenders ive had ive had to replace the bearings and that sounded like the symptoms of yours,failing that drop the oils and look for metal fragments in the oil as this can indicate internal problems and determine t/b or gb
worth checking the uj's on your props too
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if its the same seal as the lt77 i have one here j29 m1,the part no. on packaging FTC 4939G,if memery serves me correct the seal sits in the lt230 t/b and goes over the output shaft as its mated to the lt77 g/b,not sure how it is with the r380
edit: just re-read and realised im thinking of the wrong seal,sorry
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sorry to here this i know how you feel ive been there and genuinly hope you get it back,just out of interest did you have any security on it? im not trying to start a debate on whats the best security just interested in what works and more importantly what doesnt,
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You must look at different axles to me. Of course your answer tells me a lot about you.,I'll spell it out for you.
DIG. Yes get the spade out and clear the way underneth. Keys of car out of the ignition so you keep away from those spinning wheels.
Then using the Hi-Lidt and the wheel attatchment lift each wheel in turn and chock the axle up.
Then wrap the bridle around one side of the axle MISSING the brake pipe.
Pass the bridle through the loop on the strap.
Then wrap the other end of the bridle around the axle, Missing the brake pipes. Join with a shackle.
Attatch the sacrificial rope to the bridle and to a part on the chassis or good point.
Attatch the strap to the vehicle that's doing the recovering with a shackle.
Attatch the sacrificial rope round the strap and to a sensable point on the recovery vehicle.
Move everybody at least THREE strap lengths away from the vehicles except the two drivers.
Should you have to join two straps DO NOT IN ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE A SHACKLE. Thread each loop through the other. Now you already know how to stop two strap loops seizing during the pull ?
I DON'T HAVE A 90 !!!!
or you could just hook the rope to your towpoint and chuck the other end to your mate to hook to his towpoint
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ok lets be realistic a landrover could be recovered useing the axle,but in reality you'll probably have to dig under the axle to get the strap round (9 times out of 10 there grounded on the axle when stuck) and should the strap slip while recovering it would probably wipe out your brakeline and breather pipe,and as mentioned is dangerouse if caught by spinning wheels,personally i would rather make sure ive got sufficient recovery points before i get in that predicimant as this is the only time ive seen this method used
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I Fully agree all ropes and recovery can be dangerous. But knowing your equipment knowing how to use it and how to link ropes etc is all part of it aswell as basic physics angles of pull and expectaion of where the towed vwhicle will go once moving. Strops I see as a bit pointless unless for winching or to secure somthing not towing.
My first competitive trial I drove completly on my own one series owner caught a tree and as per usual with a replacement LR bumper it wedged against the Firestone SAT. Twas going nowhere!!! Out comes Mr Winch Pajero flashing amber lights, flourecent jackets (I'm not joking it was like a scene from Londons Burning Way OTT). He proceeded to spend the next 10 minutes rigging up. Everyone and I mean everyone was experienced triallers stand there watching but well out the way. It was safe, very safe and maybe it was more the marshal (thats all he ever did never drove a trial) Wow I was amazed how long it took. normal procedure would be to attach a strop to a motor and a hook to the end of the bumper and for the driver of the damaged motor to reverse very very slowly to ease the bumper out. I agree not as safe. Not dangerous either just the usual way most of the trials guys would sort it. Common sense and driving accordingly. unfortunatly these days there seems to be a great lack of it especially in the P&P community it would seem.
Shackles flying I was refering to when sompeople usually at a P&P uses a strop and tries to do a snatch recovery the instant loading on the shackel/chassis is massive.enough to cause sevear damage to persons in the vehicle.
A degree of stretch as you sat Mart makes things way safer in terms of instant shock load applied to the towpoints and the weight of the toing vehicle to some degree helps get the stuck motor moving.
The Vid I posted is the nationals. All motors have a cage, secure towpoints, mesh and or windscreens. It shows how much abuse the 24 mm rope can take and if used well can extract really stuck motors. Agree that if you have a dead disco in porridge up to ots doors then its winch time moving a dead motor that weighs 2 Plus tonnes and 6 or more tonnes of porridge infront of it a rope isn't going to work all that well. Granted.
Personal choice 8 meters can be halfed to 4 meters.which both are lengths are very useful. Rope over strops anyday for me they're versatile and can take plenty of abuse if req.
I was at driveround/open day event many years ago as a kid. It was an open day and the AWDC was running a trials event the same day but on the other half of the site. Well somone in a RRC on the P&P was towing out a 90 with a nato hitch the 90's rear x member was shot. There was a video of the nato hitch detatching flying through the rear screen of the RRC and through the Passenger head rest (yes through it) and through the front screen. Luckily nobody was in there and nobodoy was injured. Ever since seeing the video after the event I'm the careful one! Kinetic ropes tp be used when its called for, nylon when called for and Strops for winching/securing.
When the local fire brigade got stuck in the snow at the bottom of a dead end close we got them out safley. Our thankyou letter which I will one day frame and put up had a section from the chief that was there at the time. He commented on how professional we were and how they were very grateful of our help. I think he appreciated me Cutting a rope up to be re spliced at a later date after inspecting it before attaching it to the front of one of his appliances.
(Never lend somone your recovery box full of equipment). I always carry an 8 meter rope behind my seats that never gets abused. Although the fire engine wasn't a dead burried motor it must have weighed in a fair bit. More a case of more suited tyres 4x4 or 8x8 with us both helping up the fire engine that was only 2wd on road tyres locker engaged but just spinning.
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Towing ropes for the road are they actually legal? I heard they were no longer legal but I may be wrong. It used to be that you could use one upto 8 meters however that was defo changed. years ago. I blew up a Gearbox coming off the M11 near Stanstead best part of 45-50 miles. My old man came out in his 300tdi disco and towed me home on my trusty 8 meter rope. Took us ages to get back my 90 went faster behind his disco that it had done with its na. before I tdi'd it.
My old man has a good simple method as he used to do truck recovery for years. when they used scammel explorers and series 1's. Basically its waving his Right hand out the window various commands to what he needs the towed driver to do. i.e brake more, brake less, hold on the brake handy at Roundabouts keeping the rope taught, letting off the brakes etc. I have used the same method and it makes it easy even with somone not used to being towed.
ive seen some crazy things myself over the years at p&p's etc and i think thats what makes you think about what your doing more,i used to marshall for a local club at some p&p's but there was more and more people turning up with lack of experiance,poor recovery points,10 ton ropes with 1ton shackles etc the best thing about it half of them dont want to listen when you try and help,in the end i gave it up with the blame/claim culture we live in today i didnt want the marshall vest on my back if you know what i mean,theres only so much advise/help you can give people,as you say though you do soon learn the ones/types to keep an eye on
love the pic recovering the fire engine by the way,you ought to send that off to the bbc when there next pulling offroaders down
FREE SMART WATER CHESTERFIELD
in International Forum
Posted
there is a police opereation in the carpark of the chesterfield football club,whittington,chesterfield today (14/1/2012) between 10am and 2pm,any body with a landrover can just take it down and the police will put smart water on it for you free of charge,there is an article in the derbyshire times about it,its only TODAY BETWEEN 10AM-2PM