19MART82

i recently sprayed mine with the nato green satin finish,dont use matt finish it seems to hold the muck and looks a mess after a while,the military type paint is really easy to spray,i was bit nervous as this was my first time ive sprayed a motor,just dont hold the spray gun to close and dont be tempted to spray it too thick,thin layers, the more time you spend on prep and masking the better the results,but with the military paint it is quite easy for the less experianced http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=80713

i stand corrected appologies moose

are you going down the comp safari route now chris? just wondered for what reason you want to mount the engine in the rear?

bit confusing isnt it lol,there normally pretty helpfull on the phone though as for the reverse cut gears they dont change the direction the axle runs,its to do with the tooth contact between the crown wheel and pinion to make it stronger,some h/d crown wheel and pinion sets you buy (kam i think) will state front axle or rear because 1 set will be reverse cut (front i think) to give maximum strength from the contact of the gears,its just the way the teeth are cut but the crown wheel will still rotate the same way

http://www.rakeway.co.uk/page12.html ive seen the odd one pop up on ebay from timr to time too

all brake pads whatever brand should be bedded in,normally its cycling 10-20 harsh stops to build up the heat without overheating the discs and pads to bed them and thats what i allways do including with the green stuff pads, in the link above is showing 300-400mile to bed the green stuffs in???? i seriously joking aside dont think i even got that milage out of the pads! i was recommended the green stuff pads as i was told they were better for offroad use but where are you going to fit that many road miles in a offroader? i do know the green stuff pads come in different grades so maybe i was supplied the wrong grade? but there is a lot of bad reviews about them if you do a google search

mine were standard solid discs,ive never used vented or grooved, they still wore down at an alarming rate. to answer the question a few posts up the pads were bought from paddocks

ha ha,ive read quite a lot of bad stuff about them as i trawled the internett after mine had worn down,i actually thought my callipers were sticking they wore down that fast,considering they are meant to be better for offroad use i was pretty dissapointed

i had the greenstuff pads in the rear of my last truck,they wore down unbelievably fast and i found off road they didnt stop so well either,replaced them with ferrodo pads and they were loads better

many thanks boris,i will also try the prop in phase,i think ive finally got to the bottom of this now though after i was given some sound advice from a fellow forum member on the phone last night, first job this morning i replaced the uj's on the prop,and i butchered the complete end of a mates spare transfer box to sort the output bearings/seal,when i went to remove the x brake and prop i noticed the caliper was sitting on an angle to the disc,removed this and found with a straightegde the back plate was bent,so put the disc and prop back on without the caliper/backplate,jacked a rear wheel up and got my mate to spin whilst i was holding a straight edge from the transfer box up to the disc,from that i found the disc was also slightly warped (strange really as i thought i would have heard grating/scraping noises),checked the prop in the same way and found that was running completly straight so then i removed the disc and cut up an old output flange to make a spacer and refitted the prop without the disc,took it for a drive and it was loads better but ther was still something funny there so now i thought it can only be the out put bearings so stripped it down again and removed the full output houseing,on doing this i noticed the bearings inside had worked loose and were slack as a bag of knackers so tightened these back up and fitted the new output flange /housing,refitted the prop useing the spacer and leaving the x brake disc off,filled it with oil and took it for a drive,hey presto drives mint,so ive now ordered a new back plate and disc and hopefully the problem should be sorted,will also try the prop in phase too see if thet helps any

single tank would be easier in a 4x4 and probably cause less issues,if you did have 2 tanks why not use them seperatly with a valve or something to swap tanks,as for the fuel pick use a length of silicone or ptfe pipe with a small ball weight on the end (drilled and pipe running through),whatever angle the trucks on the ball will follow the fuel round the tank,if you did run 2 tanks at the same time do this in both tanks and fit non return valves near each tank,1 tank cant bleed into the other then on side slopes and should empty evenly

single tank would be easier in a 4x4 and probably cause less issues,if you did have 2 tanks why not use them seperatly with a valve or something to swap tanks,as for the fuel pick use a length of silicone or ptfe pipe with a small ball weight on the end (drilled and pipe running through),whatever angle the trucks on the ball will follow the fuel round the tank,if you did run 2 tanks at the same time do this in both tanks and fit non return valves near each tank,1 tank cant bleed into the other then on side slopes and should empty evenly

would be far easier to go down the tomcat route like allready said ^^^^ trim the arches,the rear just use some checker plate to raise the inside of the tub and front remove the inner wing then just trim the side panels and fit some flexi arches http://www.tomcatmot...e/advert_3.html

thanks for the input fella's,weather permitting i will go through the process of elimination tomorrow,ive actually discovered another possibility now also,the back plate of the x eng brake is slightly bent and i noticed the caliper wasnt sitting parralel with the disk,it also didnt seem to move very easy on the sliders as due to the bend the bolts are now very slightly angled and trapping it,im wondering if the pads have been in contact it may have over heated at some point and slightly warped the disk,the x brake was allready on the truck when i bought it so will strip it down tomorrow and check it all over,need to find somewhere open to get a out put flange bearing and new uj's first though so i can eliminate any vibration from them,landroversforever your right in what your saying i should have been clearer,they both had 2" lift but the weight of truck/spring ib's were taken in to consideration,they should both be +2" but i'll double check tomorrow,i'll let you all know how i get on

thats an idea actually simon i'll give it a try tomorrow,boris if you have a minute and its not belting it down like it is here that would be great if you could,my front prop i bought from paddocks and thats in phase,my rear prop i bought from wilson driveshafts in notts and thats out of phase,looking at the picture though there is actually 2 marks,just wondering if the other mark is so you can change the phase for front or rear or something? weather permitting i'll have a mess about tomorrow and see what prevails

just been out and had a look,the front prop is in phase the rear is out of phase on mine,the front i bought from paddocks and still has the sticker on it "def 200tdi front 30deg extreme wide angle",there doesnt seem to be no vibration from that end though,i will put the rear prop in phase tomorrow and see how it goes and let you all know

i was typing last post while you posted,thanks western youve just answered the question that was in the back of my mind,maybe they have made the prop up thinking it was for the front,should i just seperate and align the knuckles or will it need balancing ect?would you say the angle the props running at is ok??

another difference ive just thought of is on my last truck i had x eng rear ball joint arms so could slightly adjust the angle of the diff by adjusting the length,on this one ive got adrenaline cranked arms and you cant adjust the length,maybe the nose of the diff could do with tweaking up slightly???

hi frax,thats whats puzzling me to be honest as i know its normally the front prop that gives issues,and i had the same settup on my last defender and had no trouble,it could be the wrong springs have been supplied? this is the lift on the truck im having issues with... this is the lift on my last truck,supposidly same lift,same wide angle props,similar setup,no vibration issues at all....

hi simon,the phasing is something that did cross my mind but it was bought new direct from a propshaft manufacturer,its still got the marks on and its not been seperated as far as i know,it has some yellow marks on it so im presuming its right,but if it has been seperated at some point and put back together and maybe a spline or two out could that cause vibration issues?

ive been having problems with drivetrain vibrations on my def 90 its got a 2" lift,correction arms front and rear and i fitted new wide angle props front and rear and running 35" bfg km2's today i went to remove 1 prop at a time to trace the vibration front or rear,on getting under i checked for play and found some play in both uj's on the rear prop,i also noticed there is some play in the rear output flange of the transfer box and its weeping a little oil,non of this was there a couple of weeks ago (but the vibration was and im presuming is the cause)and the props are virtually new (about a month old)and greased regularly with lithium grease,i removed the rear prop and drove it in difflock and the vibration was gone,the only thing i can think of is that... 1. the prop wasnt balanced correctly from new? 2. even though its a wide angle prop its still running at too much of an angle and causing vibrations? ive allways used wide angle on previous trucks and never had a problem but on previous trucks ive allways had aggressive tyres (silverstones ect) so may not have noticed heres a couple of pics too show the angle,any advice very appreciated as i dont want to fork out for a double carden if i dont need too,and as i said the vibration was there before the play in the ujs and out put shaft,and was there with the previous standard props

i think i could live with it too,thanks mo

i know this is an old thread but a google search has brought me here,if i fit a 300tdi/td5 full seat box sound deadening trim on my 200tdi/lt77 there would be a gap left round the gearbox tunnel ? but otherwise would fit? if so how much of a gap would it leave?

Sorry ive only just seen the above post,yes ive managed to get it sorted,i cut out all the bad then welded some 3mm plate along the top and sides of the chassis rails,then boxed the crossmember up,since the pics ive also added some 45 deg strengthening as in the pics above and boxed it to do away with the mud traps,all ive got left to do is remount the cage which my mate has cut me at work some 5mm plate into 2x 150mm square and 4x 100mm square,the 2 150's will be welded to the top of crossmember as spreaders,then a stubby length of 5mm wall 2" box and then the 100mm plates used as sandwich plates to bolt the cage,thanks for the help and advice fella's heres the pics,you'll notice some of the welds arent the best,2 main problems i had was access with grinder to prep properly ,and the bloody wind as i was welding outside on a breezy day (thats my excuse and im sticking to it )

i had a similar thing happen to me (93K reg defender 90) my LH side lights front & rear and no. plate light wernt working,i tryed everything and couldnt find the fault any where,a mate pointed out to me that where the earth wire comes out the battery box there is a crimped earth on the wire thats bolted to the chassis then the wire carries on to the gearbox,the crimp overtime works lose giving a bad earth,i cleaned the crimped earth up and the lights worked perfect so ive now added an extra earth wire from gearbox to chassis and not had trouble since