Mutz
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Posts posted by Mutz
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just a thought but, try removing your power steering pump belt and see if it goes.
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Nothing arrived yet?
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Well cant compare the fuel economy as ive only filled it once, as this is a toy.
But it does seem better on fuel than the wifes Mitsubishi Pajero, but then that has only needed a few minor parts in 9 yrs of owning it.
The 90 was bought as a cheap, quick fix off roader ( so i thought) it needed a little welding, rear cross member and had low oil pressure when i bought it.
sorted engine (after a rebuild) started on chassis, then realised i might as well replace that; after 3 days of changing cross member patching holes up etc.
Then you start on the "while its in bits i might as well do................." £3,500 later its back on the road.
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Try Rimmers, they seem to have them in stock for the 300tdi. and guessing that the price on the link is +VAT, so not much in it price wise.
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Welcome to my world...
I think you mean Welcome to the world of Land Rovers!!!
This is everyones story, you have just been able to put down in words how everyones antics with their Landie goes. Its very well done and my wife has been in fits of laughter; saying "this could be your story"
Having just completed (well nearly) rebuilding my 90 i took it on a night exercise as support for local scout groups (7pm-9am) and as mine had been rebuilt it seemed to be the centre of attention from other Landie owners, as well as others.
One of the volunteers came over at the end of the exercise (young lad about 19) to where me and the organiser (Landie addict) was chewing the cud.
Young lad says " thats what i want, what are they like?"
The organiser then says "You will need bottomless pockets, for every hour you drive it allow for 2 repairing it, it will let you down just when you need it most, its not comfortable, its noisey inside so forget the radio or conversation, it will leak all over the place. Not economical with no luxuries at all. But I wouldnt be with out one; even though they are a piece of ****e"
The Lad then decides he might prefer a Vauxhall!!!!!
Keep the thread going though, as it is so well written; and yes funny.
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Well you have a galv chassis so why not weld it as that would be a proper job, and compliment the chassis.
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didnt know there was any, would be interested in some to, any pics of them?
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Sorry to hear about your hassle Les, Thank you for the heads up only use paypal so have now used the above link and its now locked.
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I think thats for the whole kit, which is 16 bolts. So thats not quite so bad
Wouldnt think would be Landie thief would undo door bolts to get in, would just damage the door skin with a knife!!
If you stick with the standard bolts they rust solid after a week, so even more secure!!!
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That will allow you some movement, are your hinges worn?
As that will make a lot of diference to hanging the doors.
You will also have to loosen all the bolts to the wing and bottom footwell supports, seat box and floor panel bolts to allow the bulkhead to move.
Did you remove the tub, bulkhead etc. or just replace the panels to turn it into a van?
Oh and be careful of your screen if you are re aligning the top section, ask me how i know!!!!!!
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if you run the loom inside the chassis it takes no more than 5mins.
Buy/hire electrical fibre glass rods (£10) tape a piece of wire/string to the rod end you push in first (make sure its long enough to run the length of the chassis)
Get an old wire coat hanger and open it up, form a small hook on one end.
push rod with string/ wire through chassis and then fish the string/wire out; attach loom to wire/ string and pull back string after removing rods.
If you want to protect the loom a bit more recover a couple of times with electrical tape.
This will be quicker than trying to cover with protetion and running down the outside of chassis.
just straighten the yucky bits at the back and again re tape.
i re taped all of my loom when i did my rebuild.
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One step forward 3 steps back.......... It's a Land Rover!!!!!!!!
same sort of thing with mine, i fix 1 problem and 2 more appear..........And ive only just finished putting mine on the road!!!!
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What did you go for in the end? The Champion ones on ebay look like they should be good, BUT the plastic tanks put me off. I had a bad experience with a BMW rad where the plastic tank broke and the car overheated. It seems like a backwards step to used a weaker (plastic) material to construct something that is vital for the vehicles good health.
Been looking at the Allisport ones but they are £££!!
An alloy core would make sense as it should cool better, but does noone do one with an alloy core and metal tanks at a reasonable price?
Well i have no complaints with the champion i got off ebay, i was put off by the plastic ends as you are but a lot of modern cars are fitted with them.( Champion has a 2yr guarntee IIRC.)
as for metal ends and ally cores at a reasonable price!!!! I dont think they exist.
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i did mine with the string method, and when i took it to have it checked it was 1mm out, and as most, check is free adjustment they charge for.
So it was almost spot on and no charge.
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After several attempts to make a profile template for the sides of the dash for my 90, a mate said he has seen a downloadable pdf file for printing out the profile on a Land Rover forum; but now cant find it!!!!
Any one know where i can download it from (if it exists )
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I actually need the the channel the glass sits in
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i too looked into the difference of the rads but mainly because of price!
I eventually bought the cheaper plastic and alloy one from ebay ( champion i believe) quality is good and fitted perfectly and so far has kept engine temp gauge in the middle, whilst sitting in traffic or moving.
No complaints and saved a lot!!!!!!
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Your death wobble is most likely wheel balancing, mine was the same; had them rebalanced and now feels a lot better.
i have a 2" terrafirma lift kit to go on my 90, but the HD springs fitted seem to lift it a good distance all be it a bit of a hard ride!!!!
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Also interested in these, as i just used my old ones for now, & they are past their best!!!!
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if your existing chassis is only three yrs old and has the correct number stamped into it, then i'd blast that and galv it. If the chassis you have has no number in it then i'd get a new one and swap the bits. . . My chassis was 15yrs old and rusty, hence why i got a new richards one and swapped it over. . .
as above, 3yrs it shouldnt be in poor condition so strip and dip, so to speak.
But if its only 3 yrs old why do you think you need a new one?
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well i cant see how they can supply and fit a new chassis for that price, there is no sign of them supplying "new" chassis's on their site so possibly a refurbed and dipped chassis?
My galv chassis alone was £1200!!!
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Hi All,
When I look i the front wheel arches of my 90 from outside I see the bulkhead outriggers through where the inner wings end. Just thought there should be something covering this bit like a mudflap or plastic liner?
I dont know what it should have as when I first had it before the rebuild these inner wings were so rotten The bottom bit had gone completely. Any one got any pictures or advice.
Cheers
J
Thats what i thought when i put mine back together, couldnt remember where i had put it, so thought when it turns up i will put it on!!!
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Im sure Western put a page up with the measurements for the door openings not long ago.
But i would not have thought half an inch is far out; have you tried adjusting the hinge on the bulkhead?
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Not an answer to your question im afraid; but a question!
What would the benefit be of doing this mod?
Why do I flamin bother....
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Did something similar on my rebuild!!!
I replaced all the light and indicator lenses, so you could get to the internals by removing the covers and not removing the whole unit.
when it came to trying the electrics out, several weeks after fitting the new lenses, could not work out why my front indicators was flashing so fast and nothing at back!!
Ahhh bulbs are both blown, go buy new lamps, still dont work!!
out with multi meter, spent 2 days trying to find why i didnt have power at the rear indicators, checked all the connections at the front removed half the dash, fuse box etc..
Turned out i hadnt put the connectors on the back of the indicator lamp units!!!!
When they eventually worked SWMBO said " Well done i knew youd sort it, what was it?"
Was very honest and said "Broken wire"
!!!