tedsmart

Hello, all Just a quick question about the bearing change for the belt tensioner on a 300Tdi, I know that the drive belt tensioner is left hand thread! But are the aircon tensioner & idler left hand thread as well I guess they are but want to make sure? Thanks ted

Thanks very much for that everyone!

When doing the cambelt change it was pointed out that the auxilary drive belt tensioner bearing was not sounding the best and needs to be replaced anyone know what size/part number the bearing is as I'm thinking of pressing the old one out and replacing it! oh also the air con belt tensioner? cheers ted

I knew I had read on here that someone else had problems with these sprockets! I have been in touch with LRdirect and am assured that they have sold hundreds of these and had no problems!!!!!! cipx2, what sort of response did you get when you complained to LRdirect? I have little time to be chasing bad companys around ! It really annoys me because I enquired before buying the sprocket and even phoned the guy up and he asured me that the components of the order where all quality Well you live and learn! PS if I send you my sprocket will you find someones window to throw it through. no point sending it back it would cost more than the refund doesn't that erk you? Cheers ted

Hello all. I have finally had the chance to look at the crank shaft sprocket that would not fit with the cambelt! To refresh you I did a cambelt change and due to the fact that it had a crank shaft OEM sprocket I wanted to renew this at the same time but could not get the cambelt to fit on the crankshaft sprocket it would not sit in the grooves it was slightly out!!!! Here are some pictures: The sprocket has 24 teeth, and is 226mm circumference. Can any who has a crankshaft sprocket please measure theirs so I can find out what is going on? I spoke to the company whom I got the cambelt kit & crankshaft sprocket from and they say they have had no problems with them before, but as I live on the other side of the World this is hard to verify! Cheers ted

yeah cheers Les I understand about the seal having to be tight and that the one that came off would be loose compared but I have to admit you lost with the The: (quote: the teeth of the belt should fit snugly in the sprocket teeth in the same way as it does on the cam and inj pump sprockets (if the belt sits in these ok, then the sprocket is wrong) if I think I'm reading you right the teeth did fit well on the injection & camshaft sprockets but would not fit around the crankshaft sprocket! Well I got the feeling that if tensioned up afair bit it would have pulled it in to the teeth, but the guy helping me would have none of it saying it should have been a better fit! And because I only have the one car I needed to get it back together so as to pick the kids up from school! So the decision to put the old crank sprocket back on was made!!!!! The general condition of the old belt was pretty good what in your opinion is the chance of the old sprocket letting go (failing) how ofen are these instances occuring, any experience of them failing? Regards ted

Hi everyone I've just had help to change the cambelt on my 300tdi defender but all was not well as far as the new crank gear which came with a kit from LRdirect would not fit by the fact the teeth on the crank gear would not fit in with the groves/ teeth on the new cam belt, when pulled around the cog, it was ever so slightly out by a couple of mil on fitting in the groves, has anyone else had this problem? I'm a bit annoyed as I had planned the job for a while now and I've had to refit the old crank gear!!!!! Also the seal behind the camshaft pully was quiet tight is this normal (seal # ERR3356) Cheers ted

Hello, If I were a good mechanic and having done timing belt changes on other vehicles other than a 300 Tdi, how long would you expect it to take to change the timing belt including the cam shaft seal crank seal idler & tensioner? the whole kit? How long would you expect it to take as long as nothing is seazed? Cheers ted

Hello, The bushes are from the local LR garage and are genuine LR bushes! And no the 110 does not have trction control. I will measure the distance of the passenger side bracket and see what the distance variation is!! Good idea with the washers I might be able to do that, if theres any room to get washers in!

I had the oppertunity to have a look at the area where the klicking noise was coming from, under some bad off road conditions the klicking was quite bad but the swivel is fine no movement pulling and pushing from 12-6 oclock and none for that matter from 9-3 oclock with the 110 obviously jacked up! Everything else is fine, also I can't see anything other than on the driver side radius arm the two front bushes don't seem as central as the passenger side set, but these are new bushes recently put on, both sides! I moved the spring around a bit just in case they were not sitting properly Look at these: The second one back from the front seems as if it could have rubbed or klicked on its bracket but I can't really tell!!! What do they look like to you good or bad? Cheers ted

Yes the swivel has had a slight leak that seems to be slightly worse upon inspection(after getting back) ie some drips of oil on the inner tyre! What could this mean? Cheers ted

I'm on the trackl of thinking that I never did the shock nut & bushes up on the top of the shock mounting bracket & may be the cupped washer is moving?????? But it sounds louder than that could be if it moved! Cheers Ted

Thanks Les, I did think of that, although I have changed all the bushes other than the panhard rod bushes, but from the outside they look good? Its sounds to me as if the spring is some how moving, but I don't know how!! Cheers ted

Hello all, We had an amazing trip to Fraser Island, with thanks to you lot on here the trip went smoothly after I received advice on how to put on new springs & shockers on the front of the 110, the 110 was a dream and negotiated the terrain very well, often very servere in places especially after a storm went through and turned the tracks to mush! The only concern is that on several occasions there was a metallic ping type sound like something cracking,(coming from the drivers side front wheel) on investigation I could not see anything wrong anyone got any clues? This only happened on fairly bad tracks, under quite bad roll or when going down hill and hitting a pot hole, say when the front right wheel is pushed back under the 110. Anyone any clues, I have yet to get the time to take the wheel off and have a good look! Cheers Ted I will post some pictures of the Island later.

If I can put a pennys worth in? I Would sell up everything car wise and buy here, we bought a Defender 110 1996 that is immaculate, i could not belive it underneath not a spot of rust, and I had looked around a fair bit in the UK Chappel-en-le-Frith 4x4, Crook bro's and such and have never seen a better preserved landrover than the one's here? (to think that the goverment over there charge so much for road tax and then spray acid in the form of salt all over your vehcles and thus devaluing them is madness) Its good over here its a 4x4 wonderland, the cost of living can be compared in some ways but not in others! If you haven't got a pot to tiddle in it doesn't matter as the sun is always shining,(very simplistict I know) surely how life should be!!!! And on a down side the F**k wits always seem to be in charge!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Cheers ted

Hello, just a quick question? The timing belt was last changed on my Defender 110 300Tdi 4years & 5 months ago, and has traveled 36,500 miles. Whats the general consensus on when I need to replace the timing belt ? ie: is it urgent, or should be done at five or six years regardless of milage? What are your thoughts Thanks ted

Cheers Mo! Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean to say their not after me!

Thank you Paintman & Les Yeah now you put it like that (paintman)I can see what it does!! Also it was like brand new when I took it off? Cheers Les thats a good idea to save taking it all apart again, I'll ask my mate if he thinks he can weld it! Cheers ted

Hello, This is the third nut or bolt that I have snapped/broken over the years, one was a bleed nipple, bad enough! then there was the heater plug in the engine block!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (I know but I always had Tonka toys as a kid!) Today I had finished one side & just about to finish the other side when I decided to torque the spring retainers bolts up a bit more (about 30Nm) I couldn't find the torque setting anywhere!! You guessed it the !#@$%$ snapped! The question being what would you do? I may be being a bit flippant but I can't see that they do too much! or am I missing something(again!) What do you think? Heres a picture incase I didn't explain it too well (I think I deserved a beer) King springs and Bilstein shocks is the job that I did today going great until this By the way from the ground to the bottom of the flare (wheel arch) Before 860-865mm driver passenger After 900-910mm I was pretty surprised as they are mid duty springs Heres some pic's of the job How tight do you do up the bushes? I have just tightened them up by hand nothing realy to go by!!! Cheers ted

Hello, I know I should have asked in the garage but I thought it would be self explanitary!! I need some advise from someone who has fitted Bilstein shocks (part # F4-B46-0243-HO) to the front of their 110! I want to make sure I get the bushes right. This is the only piece of information that makes any sence at the moment, the shock has Type 36/ Type 8 printed on it, I take it that these diagrams(that come in the box) show how they should be pieced together for a Landrover 110 front fitting top being 36 and bottom being 8 is this correct? Here are some pictures to hopefully help anyone with a difinitive answer! This is the top set up Type 36? This is the bottom Type 8 I put these on a bolt to keep them together? Thanks ted

Thanks for that!!!! I have been assured that it is OE stuff? But how do I tell when it arrives other than being in OE plastic bags???? Cheers Ted PS. where do you get your kits from? I can't find a Bearmach website that sells them

Cheers for that mate! The cambelt kit is marked down as being (OE) so should be a good one! I mailed LRdirect before buying to check that the crank shaft gear was the solid one and not the spot welded one that people have had problems with and Paul Knowles mailed back assuring me it was the good one? I had not heared of the problems with the crank gear being a bad fit though? When was this recently or a while ago? If a while ago surley they have got rid of bad stock? Cheers ted PS any more info on what to look out for?

Hi I've just ordered a cambelt kit from LRdirect.com, anyone had dealings with them good/bad, I have been informed that the cambelt kit comes with the solid crankshaft gear, but I forgot to ask if the belt was Dayco and if seals I ordered were genuine? I also ordered a new lock assembly for the rear door, I want to take it apart (the old one ) and mend it but I would be stuffed if I can't get it back together to shut the back door, I looked for the thread that someone had posted on here for the repair of the lock but couldn't get any info on what to expect when I drilled the pressed rivets out, I didn't want to be left holding a hand full of springs Cheers ted

Hi thanks all! Anyone know the price for the complete locking assembly minus the lock barrel which I can transfer from old one? Thanks Ted

Hi all, No rest for the wicked!!!! The rear door lock ha sbuggered up I've taken it off and it seems to be a sealed unit can these be taken apart