DJB1140

Thanks guys for the suggestions. Just need to wait for some warm weather so the rubber is a little easier to manipulate.

I plan to fir a new winscreen to my 200 Tdi 90. I have fitted windscreens in my youth (many years ago ) but never fitted one to a Defender. I have readup on the subject and the basic idea of running a cord inside the seal and pulling it into position seems still to be the way to go. However in everything I read there is no clue as to the best place to start. Should I start centre bottom, work to both sides then up and back to centre top. Or is it better to start on one side and work accross to the other side. Which way have others done this. Any suggestions/advice welcome.

I would agree with above, coolant temperature sensor is the most likel cause. That consumption is exceptionally high. I can get 15 mpg (18 l/100 km ) towing a 1.6 tonne caravan out of my 2002 V8 auto

IIRC rear suspension is determined by number of seats- 7 seat models had air suspension, 5 seat had coil springs (less to go wrong ) The load space cover is like a roller blind. It should have a hole in each corner of the material which fits onto a small hook on the trim either side of the rear door. Dave

As stated above, a diagnostic check may well show the problem. I had something similar to this. Car would drive perfectly in straight line. But any acceleration on a corner would cause the brakes to come on on one side. turned out to be badly seated ABS sensor. this caused it to read the speed in the hub incorrectly and it though I had a spinning wheel. Dave

If I run the aircon for a while and then turn it off, the humidity in the car rises dramatically. I have had something similar on other vehicles and found the cause to be blocked drain pipes on the aircon unit. This stops the water draining away and when the airson is turned off it evaporates and creates a small sauna in the car. Any one else had this problem. The real question is where do I find the drains for the aircon unit. So far I have not found anything obvious.

Thanks for the responses. As I have already changed everything else form the old engine, swapping the flywheel casing is not so much more effort. I just need to get it all back together and installed before the cold wet weather arrives

The 200Tdi in my Defender is beyond repair, so I am replacing it with a unit from a Disco. I want to keep the original confiruration so have swapped the front end (timing case etc) and manifolds. So far so good. But now I look in detail at the back end I can see diferences in the mounting to the gearbox. On the Defender there are studs of the same size spaced roughly equally around the casing. But on the Disco engine the bottom stud does not exists and the ones either side of the centre at the bottom appear to be a smaller size. My question is can I just fit it as it is and forget about the bottom stud (if the disco doesn't need it why does the Defender) and do the other studs accurately match (a paper template test suggests they do). If this is not going to work can I simply replace the casing on the two engines? My only concern would be that I understand that on the Defender some of the bolts go through part of the block to fix the ladder rack in the sump. Any information or advise would be greatly appreciated.