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ETC7340 - 3.5L v8 ERR3442 - 3.9L v8 from 1994-95 Thanks to your link, I did find this: http://www.numcat.ru/landrover/p/33/46130/ I *think* the engines were fairly similar for the first few years. Does anyone know for sure? LHG000060 LHG100670 (some sites say it's superceeded by LHG000060) I also found ERR7373 as a possible part number. It seems that these parts run for around 230 quid!

I have a 1998 Discovery 1 NAS with a 4.0L v8. The crank pulley is badly grooved - the crank seal was replaced, but it's still leaking a lot of oil. I think it's time to replace the crank pulley (and the seal, again). I'm having a hard time finding a part number for this. Can anyone help?

I have a 1986 Ex-MoD 110 FFR with split doors. On these doortops are windows that refuse to lock. The lock engages, but there is so much play in the slide that the window just moves around anyway. I had a look at my parts book, and it seems that I'm in need of new "Runner Blocks" which are identified as part number MTC6221. Now, I've done some looking for this part number, and I can't find anything of use. Some places say that it's an "engine block", but only costs 0.89 quid. Does anyone know if this goes by a different part number? Was it superseded at some point? Any suggestions?

A cracked bushing. I'm going out on a limb and saying that it needs to be replaced: I'm also guessing that there shouldn't be a gap between rubber and steel like in this photo: Thirdly, what mechanism is supposed to center the bush to the plate (if any)? The cracked bush above appears to be under great pressure at the front-side and reasonable slack on the rear. Was that just a botched install job? Lastly, I found a set of tools for removing bushings here: http://www.polybush.co.uk/acatalog/Bushwaka_Kits.html But it appears to be just the same idea as mentioned above - ie: the screw rod idea. Those prices strike me as really expensive. Unless something similar is available at a quarter the price (or less) I think I'll end up with some threaded rod and washers.

For anyone else who is planning to do this...

I have holes all over my D110. They range in size from 3mm to 50mm in diameter. Most of these are through body panels in random locations. Like, say, the driver's door. I can't afford to replace each panel, and it the duct tape is starting to peel off. I'm also about to start painting it. Anywho, I'm looking for input on patching the holes. It doesn't have to look pretty, it just has to work, work well, and last. My understanding is that the panels are some aluminum alloy. I'm getting better with the MIG welder on steel, but I don't have any aluminum-specific gear (yet). Has anyone here welded to the panels in the past? Any "gotchas" that I should know about? What sort of experience in general did you have? What sort of equipment were you using? thanks!

I was changing some oil yesterday and I noticed a crack in on of the front radius arm bushings. It's about 8mm deep. If I had to guess, I'd say it's time to replace the bushing. None of the others are cracked or damaged (that I can see). I've never replaced a bushing before, so I have a WHOLE bunch of questions. At what point should bushings normally be replaced? Assuming I go with original equipment (not poly) bushings (as per suggestions in MANY threads), how hard is it to press out the existing bushings and press in the new? Will I need any tools? Do I need a multi-ton press? I assume that if I'm replacing a bushing, it's in my best interest to replace the entire set. Correct? If it matters, I'm running a 1986 Ex-MOD 110, 2.5L NAD. Thanks!

Are you sure you want to buy something that suffers from excessive waranty claims? Anywho, there's also the Rocky Mountain "Roverdrive". The website ( http://roverdrives.com/ ) seems to be offline at the moment, but their other site http://www.parabolicsprings.com/ seems to be running. Edited to add: http://www.rockymountainspares.co.uk/?p=21 (since Berkshire sounds like one of those UK places )

I was following fairly well up until this. Why change the thermostat?

For engine oil, I'm running a 10w40 Amsoil synthetic - it was one of the few synthetic diesel oils I was able to find in town. I followed that link about the block heater - come this weekend I'm going to try to track down a price. That info is greatly appreciated. As for the lower rad hose heater, I didn't know there was such a thing, but I'd love to swing by and take that off your hands.

Cold I'm sitting up here in the great frozen land of Canada. We're being told that this may be the coldest winter in 15 years. Over the past two weeks, it's gone down to about -21C. http://calgary.weatherstats.ca/temperature-1year-800.png Yes, it's cold, and it's not even "winter" for a few more weeks. Anyway, this got me thinking about my 2.5NADiesel. Ignoring comfort while driving, at what temperatures do I need to start worrying about my engine's ability to run? IE: how cold can it be before I need to install a heater of some sort? Hot Alternatively, if I'm operating in a desert (I'm planning a trip), how hot can it be before I need to worry about adding an oil cooler? http://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/world/images/...deathvalley.gif Any specific recommendations for D110 gear are also appreciated. Thanks!

Is there a nice easy way to press one of these in without completely destroying it? It looks like when I replaced it, I didn't press it in far enough - causing all kinds of bad things. After popping it out and having a look at it - I tried to re-insert it and press it in to the proper depth (ie: practice). The lips on the casing gave me all kinds of grief and the (already destroyed) seal was mangled beyond belief. Right now I'm thinking that trying to gently nudge it in with a hammer and drift-punch may be the way to go.

AH! Well, it's good to know I have the right part on order. Does anyone out there have a picture of a Salisbury 110 rear pinion seal properly installed? Or if there are any "gotchas" or tricks - I'm all ears. Thanks for the info, western.

AEU2515 is used up to WA159806 STC4401 is used after XA159807 I have a BA319XXX so I went with the AEU2515. I've checked my axle number, and it is 21s53XXXb. I'm concerned that a previous owner may have replaced the rear axle at some point. Since the part that was in there to start with looked more like an STC4401, this is my first concern. Is there any way to verify which axles were in use with which VINs?

I had a slow leak in my Salisbury rear diff around the pinion seal. So, I read this post and decided to give it a shot: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=7903 I pulled out a seal that looked a lot like this one: http://forums.lr4x4.com/uploads/1157467909..._160_707092.jpg I looked up the part number for my axel and ended up with part number AEU2515. What was shipped to me looked like this: Key word - shiny. When I tried to install it, it didn't go in very deep. When I put the flange back on, it was rubbing against the seal. I backed off the flange a bit (remove, re-attach) so that it was no longer touching and still within the torque spec from the service manual. After a quick trip around the block, the slow leak has been replaced with a steady flow of oil. I also noticed that the end of the diff casing nearest the flange was warm (cooler further away from the flange). How far in does the oil seal need to be inserted? Is it the inner diameter where movement happens or the outer diameter (does the seal spin with the flange, or does it stay stationary with the diff casing)? Should the seal be pressing against the gasket which is pressing against the oil thrower? I don't mind having to do this a few times to get it right - as long as that experience comes with a better understanding.