SORNagain
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Posts posted by SORNagain
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I think the electronic system has a lower inductance primary on the coil than the old points based system, needing to be energised for less time. The tacho probably can't pick up these shorter pulses.
As it happens I have just converted a tacho off an old 6cyl Jag so that it gives the correct reading for a V8, and was wondering whether the points/electronic issue was going to give me problems. Looks like it will then!
The circuit board inside is a ceramic substrate with all the resistors printed on the board in carbon ink. This means you can't change the resistors, only the capacitors, which is a bit of a pain. When I get mine sorted I can post up the necessary mods - but it won't be in the immediate future!
HTH.
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I guess the fan turned into a windmill and kept your engine cool!
I think some measurements would do wonders to reduce the speculation....thermocouple meters with two inputs are not expensive. You can then measure the temperature difference across the engine (or the radiator) while you are driving.
If you found that the coolant was entering the engine at 60 and coming out at 90 you would probably say the flow wasn't enough. If it was going in at 85 and emerging at 90 then the EWP issue would probably vanish!
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Well, I got my LT77 in today. I did have some problems with the gearbox mount on the LT230 side though, which might be relevent to you Boro.When I put it in the mount didnt look like it could support much, and when I bolted it to the rubber mount the webbing fouled the handbrake mechanism. It's in the left of the photo. Fortunately I had another gearbox with the other bracket (right) which seems to fit OK.
Taken from this angle the difference in heights is evident:
I'm not sure how the other bracket could have ever fitted, but of course I wasn't paying any attention when I first took it off! Anyone know what is going on?
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I'm putting a short stick LT77 in mine at the moment. Looks like it will fit OK but as Eightpot says I will have to chop the tunnel. Don't forget there are a different number of splines on the clutch if moving from the LT95... Glad to see the back of the vacuum servo!
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I think you might be right. The chip looks like a LM2904 (the ST logo was the giveaway) which is an op-amp. That's the sort of thing you'd use, although there seems to be a distinct lack of anything else capable of driving a dash lamp unless it's an LED. Maybe it actually drives the gauge?
Is it factory installed? Looks like a kludge....!
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Lots of salt on the roads at the moment. It might be that you have salty water in the connections somewhere and it is giving you a (surprisingly low) resistance to earth, but still higher than you would get with a short.
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Most engine driven generators don't have a regulator in the alternator. The regulator causes more problems than it solves because it attempts to keep the output power constant. Any drop in speed means the alternator demands more torque, which is probably the reverse of the characteristics of the engine.
I have had an idea though. What the wind turbine guys do is insert permanent magnets into the armature to make a permanent magnet generator. Then you just control the throttle (possibly manually) to control charging current. I think they glue neodinium disc magnets in between the zig-zag bits in the armature, so its not difficult to do. This is the same as driving the armature with a constant current, just more efficient because that current is not being wasted.
Just don't run it without the battery - it will probably kill the rectifier!
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Lovely bit of engineering! I've been thinking along those lines too, but nothing so neat... I had the same problems with an alternator + lawnmower engine.
Seems to me that although the engine could drive the alternator at full chat, because of the torque response created by the regulator this is not going to be possible.
As you load up the alternator to the point where the engine begins to slow down, the alternator demands more torque in order to keep the output power constant. This of course slows the engine even more - and this continues to the point the clutch disengages or it stalls out.
It would be better to keep the armature current fairly constant and to regulate the output voltage by controlling the throttle. That way the engine revs could be proportional to the power demand, saving noise, fuel & engine wear. I say 'fairly constant' because I'm not sure whether a constant armature current would allow you to alter the revs enough while achieving the required output voltage. Definately microcontroller territory here - lots of experimentation required!
Not sure there is an easy solution to this one
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Wire coat hangar - what a stupid thing to suggest to anybody that might not know better.
The method is not the most sensible I grant you, but I think it is up to the individual to asses whether it is suitable (as he did), rather than pre-emptively censoring it. I did add the necessary warnings.
A hydrometer gives a good indication of state of charge for a good battery, but I'm not sure how accurate it would be with a battery that has previously suffered sulfation. I have certainly had batteries where the 'magic eye' indicates fully charged, but where the the internal resistance is such that it will not start a vehicle.
Votmeter reading - ON LOAD will give an indication, but not very reliable.Voltage under load is the most accurate measurement, since it is voltage under load that starts your engine. Specific gravity of the electrolyte is just an inference.
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I favour the 'coat hanger test', but it won't win any health and safety awards!
Having given the batteries a good charge, use a wire coat hanger to short between the battery terminals.
By looking at how quickly the wire glows red hot you will get a feel for the condition of the battery.
Obviously don't hold on to the wire between the terminals as that will really ruin your day. Don't hold it on there too long either - the wire will break up and disappear through the top of the battery.
Coat hanger is a little too thin actually; ideally you want something a little thicker.
I will now wait for everyone to tell me this is a stupid thing to do.
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Now that is the best news I've heard all day!
I've just been out there and concluded the mounts can stay put, keeping the gearsticks the same is even better news. Thanks Eightpot!
Any idea about the oil cooler? Surely a 'bog brush' style automatic one will do the trick?
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Well....just bought the LT77, so I'm in for it now!
The (short) stick looks like it will emerge in approximately the right place, but the Lo-Hi & Diff lock selector might end up behind the heater matrix somewhere.
Fortunately those linkages look fairly easy to move towards the rear. The truck isn't in any condition approaching original so I have no qualms cutting the tunnel out to suit.
Hope I don't have to move the gearbox mounts though.
The new box looks like it has connections for an oil cooler. Anyone know if I can I get away without using these?
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Wow. Just shifts the liability elsewhere I guess. I can see many people getting an MOT anyway.
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Just got the tax disc renewal for my car and just happened to notice this sentence at the bottom of the page:
"From 18th November 2012 vehicles manufactured or registered before 1st January 1960 will no longer need an MOT."
Surely they will need some form of test to ensure they are road worthy? If not it's surprisingly 'hands off' in this age of the nanny state...
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Thanks Guys,
The 1.4:1 transfer case in the Defender makes much more sense; I thought it was specific to the TDi.
I hadn't thought about reconditioning the existing box, but that could be an option. On balance I think I would probably benefit more from having 5 gears rather than the overdrive (which feels like it multiplies the explosion risk by a factor of two when I engage it!) The strength of the box probably isn't a big issue for me.
I would like to rebuild a gearbox - never done one before - but I would need to swap another in as it is likely to take me ages.
So will a V8 discovery gearbox like this one just drop in?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170974830323?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
I don't mind chopping the transmission tunnel about a bit. Obviously the handbrake linkage would all change anyway.
Rob
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Hi Chaps
I recently got my old RRC a new MOT and back on the road after nearly 10 years. Either I have gone soft or got some of my hearing back, but it is WAY noisier than I remember - and I think a new gearbox will be in short order.
It currently has the original gearbox & transfer case in one (lt35?) which makes more noise than the engine at idle when I let the clutch out (layshaft bearings?), and seems like it is going to explode in a shower of cogs beyond about 40mph. It's got oil in it....
I have an autobox which was originally intended to replace it but I can't bring my self to fit it - I kinda like shifting!
So...hopefully I can tap some knowledge on my replacement options. This is what I think I know so far:
1. A santana would be strongest, but on the rare side. Given the rather tame offroading I am likely to do probably un-necessary. Annoyingly I turned one of these down about a year a go!
2. R380 next preferred alternative. Looking at ebay I think this will be too expensive for me though.
3. LT77 most likely.
I guess I have to look for one off a V8 with the right length bellhousing - so that means off a disco right?
Also I have a 1.4:1 LT230 off a TDI which I intended to fit to lower the ratios to suit the bigger wheels. I was thinking about this the other day and thought why, on a diesel engine which revs lower, would you lower the ratio rather than raising it? Have I bought the wrong one?
Finally, is there any funny stick arrangements I should be aware of. I'm hoping for a fairly drop-in replacement. (looking forward to being rid of the vacuum difflock tho!)
Saw this as an example:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170974830323?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
...is this what I'm looking for?
Sorry about the load of questions, but the more I looked the more I confused myself! Need an expert to tell me how it is.
Rob
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OK Thanks, I'll try Sureterm too. I was paying A.F. £150 a few years ago, but I was a younger man then... £100 sounds encouraging.
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Woo Hooo! It's a pass!
To be fair, after his initial skepticism he was right as rain. Which judging by it's apearance I can't blame him for.
The only advisory: 'No rear seats fittted.'
Not bad eh? Still can't believe it. It must have been LR4x4 positive energy that did the trick.
So now I must start looking for insurance. I'm looking for a limited mileage policy with the only modifications being wheels, shocks & springs. Adrian Flux still favourite?
Oh, and it looks like I'll have to change my profile name....
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Oh definately. It's a bit like Trigger's broom; 5 new heads and 3 new handles! So it should be OK as far as rust goes - there isn't any - but while I was fixing the other stuff all the body panels were ouside in the weather, so it still looks like a wreck.
Mostly I'm worried about slightly intermittent switches on the steering column, play in the steering, routing of fuel lines, and the modifications I have made to the sills.
No news yet....
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Yes plenty of that! Still, on the bright side I can tidy my garage while there is nothing parked in the middle of it.
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Just dropped my '74 classic off to my local MOT tester....NOT a landrover specialist! (or enthusiast by the look of it) It's been off the road since August 2004 hanging around and getting in the way.
It's not looking good...the first thing the bloke said was...
"Tsk......You got to take the rough with the smooth havent you?"
followed by questions like...
"What's it for?"
and....
"What a delightful vehicle."
I got the impression he didn't mean the last one.
So just got to wait and see what happens. Will update obviously!
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Have you got an impact driver?
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We all love money off don't we? It's become something of a tradition for a group of us to go down there and then go for a big fried breakfast! A proper man-morning.
The place was heaving. I didn't get anything very interesting - just some new overalls, face shield and drill vice.
Anybody get anything more exotic?
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If I'm not mistaken I have seen clips of the towing vehicle on the drag strip - It's no slouch either! Was it on here? Can't remember.
Starting V8 after 6 months stored
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
You are not using the distributor for anything other than driving the pump, so you have no timing to mess up if you want to drive it first.
I'd be tempted just to crank it over with the coil packs unplugged until the oil light goes out.
Edit: the feeds to the coil packs that is...