richardthestag

Hi Anyone done a lhd - rhd conversion on a 2 door classic? I am expecting that I need steering box, dash wiring loom, pedal box and remake up brake pipes. Any other nasties that I might expect? Cheers Richard

for completeness in this thread. Feed for the circuit (power distribution) on my 93 rrc runs back to the battery on an orange with pink tracer wire. it goes via the fusible link that had gone high resistance I guess. I found them all wrapped up in a sock like mess that sits between the battery and the cooling header tank. Wary of the notorious fragility of this area of the loom, I unclipped the main loom from the inner wing. pulled back some of the protective wrapping, found a bundle of orange wires one of which had the pink tracer. after disconnecting the battery I snipped the wire, insulated the old but still live dead end and extended the loom end directly to the battery positive. 12v feed to abs circuit is restored. 10 minute fix for nearly 2 days of diagnosis Temp fix will be properly done at the weekend with a new single fusible link to protect the circuit. thanks for your help chaps

Hi David, duncmc First class advise, found the bundle of fuses between the battery and the cooling header tank. Might need yo lift the header out of the way to get access. Cold and dark here by the time i got the dash back together so a job for tomorrow night. Wish me luck

found the cause yay Thanks Duncmc your posts helped me with my diagnosis. If relay, switch, ecu and everything else in place provide 12v to the red connector for the pump, YET it drops to zero when the pump is connected it must be the feed. My brain just wasn't working on current not being high enough to run the pump. Ran 12v from battery to the fused side of the 30a fuse. ignition on and pump fires up and cuts out at right pressure hoo 'kin ray now.... Orange pink heavy wire feeds that fuse. It is not ignition controlled. It must loop somewhere into the loom you got any idea where? Don't really want to rip the dash apart but am going to pull the section out under the steering column. This is the bit from the manual P119 fuseable link.

stripped spare pressure switch, great instructions btw Free the plunger up but it only moves maybe 1mm .... how far should it move? The torx switch was stuck, leaned on it a little and found the click Now testing continuity between - #2 (relay) and #5(ground) / #4(Black yellow) I get continuity on both until the torx is pushed and clicks. :-) - #3 white (ecu) I get continuity to #1 when the microswitch is depressed to the car now...... edited to add made no difference, pump not run when test switch rigged up Disconnected pump and tested voltage to red feed, 12v until torx screw pressed. tested continuity from black to battery and it was continuous but not absolute. i.e. if I connect the two terminals of my multimeter together in connectivity test mode it reads zero. testing from black to earth it was reading 0.08. Could my problem be bad ground distribution, wiring diagram says e100, where is that? tested other components on that ground distribution horn, headlamp etc and they were all good, except the air con compressor clutch... hmmmm

Hello thanks for your reply bridging top left and bottom left on the pressure switch connector, pin 3 is white from ecu and pin1 is black to ground, did nothing to the pump :-( running 12v to the pump connector red made the pump fire straight up. I have a spare ecu, abs relay, pump and switch which worked on the last car made no difference here though I have a spare switch, the plunger moves, but only if I pull it with pliers. I have tried to bench test it without much success. Looking at the switch top row left #2 White Orange from Relay top row right #1 white from ecu bottom left #5 black ground bottom middle #4 black yellow ?!? to something Bottom right #3 black ground I am doing a simple continuity test. Testing from pin #2 white/orange from relay to #1 ground did not have any continuity regardless of where the plunger was. #5 ground and #4 Black-yellow were open regardless of where the plunger was. Testing from pin #3 White from ECU no continuity any pins regardless of plunger position Next step is to strip the spare switch as per your post and see if I can get it to behave.

Hi All I have a problem with my ABS pump that I would like your advise on. Car is a hard dash RRC 3.9 1993, it is my daily driver, not had ABS problems before. Friday night in torrential rain, the abs light came on and then shortly after the brake warning light. two reds. Stopped ok, checked fluid level ok and that brakes worked. switched off ignition and back on again and noticed that the abs pump did not kick in. Brake pedal was hard but stopped the car fine. Today been diagnosing, no voltage to the abs pump on the red wire when tested on the back of the pump. Checked the following with ignition on or engine running; - two 5a fuses under seat and B1 in dash fuse good 12v. - 30a fuse - 0volts hmmmm - for some reason i pulled ABS relay and checked pin30 - 12v ... strange, checked 30a again and 12v - pushed relay back in and it clicked. checked pin 30 and it was 0v - pulled abs relay and bridged pins 30 and 87 - 0 volts plus no ABS pump noise. - Disconnect abs pump from loom and I get 13.8v (with engine running) up to the abs pump connector under the bonnet. - Maybe pump is fubar. So I connect pump red wire to 12v battery and it works. Just in case I am going mad!! ECU Connector; - pin 9 - 12v - pin 10 and 25 - 12v when brake pedal pushed - white wire from pin30 on ecu to abs pressure switch has 11.86v - Two black wire from pressure switch and black/brown from pump all have good earth. I have tried to no avail, different pump, was working when put on the shelf 5 years ago, different abs pressure switch and different ecu. The circuit works find until the abs pump is connected. Any ideas?

With the engine running press the brake pedal gently and you meet some resistance - press a little harder and the pedal goes click and the car starts to slow. Before I changed the pads it would happen very occasionally since then it clicks every time. Braking efficiency is fine. I am going to look at reconditioning the front calipers this weekend. in the snow I do have a spare set on the shelf from a 92 classic that I broke a few years back but maybe these are not compatible with my 93. the parts suppliers suggest different mounting bolts metric vs imperial.

Morning All Having some issues with the brakes on my 93 3.9 Vogue RR classic. Very occasionally I would experience a slight click when pressing the brake pedal, as it happened so very occasionally and the car pulled up straight and quick I wasn’t too worried. However Last weekend I changed all the pads, I cleaned the caliper pistons in situ and did notice some damage to the stainless surface on some of them, I pushed them in, put old pads back in and pressed brake pedal, on both front brakes I needed to start the engine and pressurise the system before I could get two pistons on each caliper to shift. Is this normal? I then cleaned what I could again and pushed the caliper pistons back in before installing new pads. Initially everything was fabulous – but now it has started clicking again – i.e. very slight resistance on the brake pedal almost every time that I pressed it in a very long traffic jam west london this morning. Braking efficiency does NOT seem to be affected at all. My next step is a caliper rebuild, new pistons seals etc, is there anything else that I should be worries about? Cheers for reading..

Hi not so sure about the oil leak - as stated above oil cooler shares space in the radiator. Is the leak oil or autofluid, they smell very different. Re the alternator, check the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running - chances are your alternator is toast. My tacho failed and I was warned that it could be due to an alternator fault. Driving home that evening, I had just gotton on the M40 when it all started to go wrong. first the abs light came on - next the speedo failed - then the indicators. I switched off everthing that wasn't essential i.e. radio, blowers etc and the speedo worked again but failed completely a few miles later so I exited the motorway and found someplace safe to park, the engine died just as I did so. Got home via a very nice man in an RAC truck. New alternator fitted and problem resolved - I haven't yet stripped down the old unit but it is possible that the brushes have failed and if so I shall rebuild it and stick it on the shelf.

Depends on what the problem is I guess. My 3.9 was pressurising the cooling system, I compression checked it to confirm head gaskits were ok and then k-sealed it. This lasted 40k miles before it started pressurising again. So I did another compression test and 2 cylinders were slightly low but k-sealed it again because I had a cronic missfire as well as the geyser out of the expansion bottle. K-seal worked for 5 minutes before it packed up and started missfiring again. I removed the heads had them skimmed and crack tested, reassembled with composite gaskits and it still pressurised the cooling system and was misfiring like a person I'm not that keen on. While I was working out what my next move would be it pressurised so much that it popped the plastic plug off the top of the Rad, unfortunately I was on the M40 at the time. I was so used to the low cooling system warning light flashing away at me that I continued for a mile before the temp gauge started rising. I pulled over but the engine was cooked. If you have a pressurised cooling system It has got to be worth giving it a go but don't expect it to be a lifetime fix. The best thing to do is to fix the cause of the problem, if a head gaskit has blown should be a fairly easy fix, if a liner has slipped, block cracked then you have my sympathy

How about removing the leather covers from the 4 door front seats and fitting them to the 2 door frames? I did a seat cover replacement on my stag and it was a fiddle but only required removal / replacement of clips etc. Good Luck

Would that have stopped it starting. the beast runs again but I haven't the foggiest what I did to get it going. I set the LPG to emergency and it wouldn't start, I ran 12v to the LPg soilenoids and all three happily clacked at me and still no starting. I went into full diagnosis nmode with multimeter and could find no fault. Check the air gap and that was ok, no adjustment needed. I did check that the rotor turned and sprang back which it did. As per yesterday the HT spark from the coil cleared a good 15mm so I assumed that the LT / HT side of things was in rude health. Maybe have a dry joint somewhere on the LT side of things, so I shall replace all the ends and take it from their. Fun and games but nice and sunny today Many thanks for all the suggestions from everyone.

Hi DC Thanks, I didn't remove the dizzy just the cap and rotor. I have done that bob weight thing before and found that the dizzy cap wouldn't go back on if the bobweights were out.. I think they are ok. I am now more convinced that I have disabled the efi which I believe is fed from the black / white wire on the low tension side of the coil. I'll be back out in the pouyring rain soon. Cheers

Ok another job I wish I hadn’t started Car is a 93 harddash 3.9 EFI with LPG All I was doing was tightening up the PAS belt, but to get to the two pivot bolts I had to remove the alternator, dizzy cap and the following bits… I found that the rotor was stuck solid. I held the dizzy shaft with a screw driver and assaulted the rotor with a pair of pliers (the rotor snapped into two bits !!! Never mind I have a spare genuine rotor in the garage.) Why was I pulling the rotor? So I could get the plastic cover inside the dizzy out of the way and gain an extra 2mm of clearance for the back PAS pivot bolt. I also had to remove the two pin wire to the ignition amplifier on the dizzy to get to the front pivot bolt. FFS Oh and by the way the monsoon promised was now underway. Adjusted the PAS belt, replaced the alternator, rebuilt the dizzy and attempted to start and it doesn’t fire. Check for spark at the coil and it is pretty strong Then check for a spark at a plug and again no problems here nice healthy spark. So why will it not start p.s. Cap and Rotor are genuine plugs are 5k old and new leads went on at the same time. I have LPG but it relies upon activity at the coil before it will activate. Any idea how I can see if it starts on LPG alone? Cheers

Made it home last night except the last 6 miles of the journey were on the back of an RAC / On-Time low loader Left work with Tacho flicking about, this gave up altogether just after I got on the a40 in Greenford. After a couple of miles the ABS light started to flicker, I managed to stop this by switching off the interior fan and radio. But after a few miles the ABS light was on permanently but very dim. Next the speedo would die when I indicated moving from one lane to the next. Not really wanting to sit on the hard shoulder of the M40 I continued to Beaconsfield on side lights with no tacho, no speedo and the abs light on. But no ignition light. Stopped in a layby and it died on me I guess that had I not been running on LPG then the engine ECU would have given up long ago and left me stranded. RAC sent out a low loader within 30 mins and I had a spare 2nd hand alternator on the shelf at home which I fitted in 45 mins. Everything is working again but the replacement alternator is very noisy so I shall buy a new unit today. Pricey but peace of mind as I do 15k miles a year in this daily driver. Top marks to Bowie69 for quick diagnosis.

Ta I have a spare on the shelf so I'll try that if a quick clean up doesn't help.

Hello The tacho on my 93 RRC has taken on a life of its own. The needle wavers around between 0 and 2k rpm. It started mucking me about this morning. Sometimes it works! I heard that these take their feed from the alternator?!? All the connections on the back of the alternator seem solid enough. Any ideas what could be causing this problemo? Ta

Many thanks chaps, it was indeed the propshafts. I had a second set in the garage which came of my last RR which I scrapped but that had recent UJ's fitted. The front prop had slight play in one UJ but more than enough to cause the vibration. The back prop had one uj semi seized i.e. it would swivel in one direction but was totally solid in the other. Problem fixed in one hour under the car

Driving home last night in my 93 3.9 auto RR I noticed that it was growling and vibrating between 45 and 55mph, It was worse on overrun and was consistent with road speed rather than engine speed. The vibration was not harsh but could definately be felt through the foot rest and throttle pedal. After a quick check around I couldn't see anything obvious so drove home (about 20miles) The problem got a lot better as the car warmed up and by the time I had got off the m40 and onto the back roads it had all but gone. I did notice that at the end of my journey there was a noise like something touching a prop (but nothing was touching the props) that occured occationally but mainly on over run. I had a look underneath but couldn't see anything wrong it was cold and dark so I gave up. This morning the grumble is back and seems to be vibrating harder, it is no louder with the windows open but then there is sooo much road noise that it would have to be pretty loud to hear it. I took the car home and used the Stag for work today. Tonight I plan to check the viscous diff is working as it should, last night I jackup up the front end and was dissapointed to feel the slightest play in the top swivel pin (these were replaced last July) is this normal. Other than wheel bearings what else could be causing this? do I test front wheel bearing by driving on a full lock and listening for nasty noises? I am hoping that flex plate issues would be consistent with engine speed and would go away if gearbox is in neutral (or do I have to kick the transfer box into neutral?!) Ta for reading Richard

I got my heads crack tested too, the skim wasn't too pricey. I'll second the composite gasket recommendation. the tin ones are made out of the same stuff that stanley use for their knife blades. Trying to get the valley gasket out resulted in the following exhange Ouch! Bugger! Ouch! f**k! Ouch! B*stard Ouch! Sh*t not again! etc etc etc Getting the replacement in was slightly less painful because I now had my welding gauntlets on!! HTH

Many thanks for all the advise. Once I got infront of it the solution was easy. Cap off, ignition on and I get a nice heathy spark at the points by flicking them open and closed. Pulled coil to dizzy ht lead off and held it 5mm off the rocker cover. however on flicking the points open and closed I got a woefully poor spark which could only just been seen. After running 12v straight to the coil +'ive and replacing the coil -'ive to dizzy low tension I gave up and pulled the 12v coil out of the Range Rover. Car started straight away. I can only conclude that the flat battery was caused because the ignition was "just on" over night. This overheated and killed the coil while it drained the battery. Rewire went as planned and everything is working a treat, except the wiper motor which seems reluctant to do anything!! I ran out of time and will fix next time I am there.

Ideally when checking the preload you need to strip right down to the bare hub. i.e. disc, caliper, drive shaft and rear hub oil seal all removed? I am guessing, apologies if completely wide of the mark, that you are making the saem mistake that I did First time round I removed a shim and went for a test drive and after an awful lot of farting about I got the square root of nowhere near solving the problem. I also probably spent more time jacking up and fiddling with shims than if I had done it properly which is what I did second time around. I got new swivel kits from e-bay and had each side done in about 2hours including fitting new top bush, pin and bottom bearing. quite an easy job really, the naked hub is much easier to check the preload on too B) Good luck HTH

Been their before with another car. I haven't seen this one since in wouldn't start but am reliably informed that their is no sparko, I will check for a nice wet plug before I get in too deep. I am going down to Devon Friday so will let you know whether poor old pops ran it out of fuel Thanks also to Diff for your help.

I had this problem First replaced the shagged out front dampers, one of the lower bushes had disintegrated and the damper was loose in its mounting. Checked the steering box and play was well within tolerances Checked the steering damper which only suffered from knackered bushes despite looking quite new. Probably shaken to death Next I changed all the steering ball joints and got the tracking setup correctly Next I poly bushed the front axle, don’t know what type but they were red ones from famour four. Did the back axle some time later nice smooth ride now Still jiggled but not as bad nor as frequent, but once it kicked off it was violent. Had some real brown trouser moments at 70mph Checked the swivel preload and found it to be a little loose. Removed a couple of shims to tighten things up. That made it even better but it still would vibrate at 70mph if I went over a manhole cover etc. Rechecked the dampers and found that the rubbers had settled slightly so tightened them up. Also replaced the anti roll bar links on the front axle as one of these was fubar Thought this had fixed the problem but then it went mental when I drove over an ant on the m4 at 70mph one night. Had to slow to 40 before it stopped wobbling. FMB When I got home I checked the front axle and found the slightest of vertical play in the front wheels. This could only be the top swivel pin so I stripped em and renewed top pin, bush and bottom bearing. About 2hours per side and never had the problem since. HTH