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Excellent - Thanks

Thanks Western - this one seems to give the most info: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=82337&hl=%2Balternator+%2Bconnections Ive uploaded a photo of the alternator and what I think is the correct connections. IND - warning light - smaller brown and yellow wire +ve - starter motor and through to battery since I dont have a rev counter W terminal is not connected hopefully thats right!

Hi all, Ive just bought an new alternator to replace the old (snapped bracket) but the new one has binding posts rather than the standard bosch/lucas connector. There are 3 wires to the connector - 2 brown thicker wires and a thinner brown/yellow tracer wire. Id just like to confirm that after I fit post connectors to the wires, the two thicker brown wires go to the thicker +ve post on the alternator and the thinner wire to the other smaller post if that sounds right?

Duly noted - thanks again for all the advice - I will post the outcome as soon as I get the head back from the engineers and reassemble - hopefully before the week is out! As a novice I would not have attempted to do any of this were it not for the technical archive here on this site.

The head bolts are new - and can be supposedly used 5 times before discarding. I think that I will retorque after first use i.e. normal operating temp has been reached and has cooled - a bit of a pain but many state it is good pratice. just ordered a new head gasket - the 3 hole elring variety [ERR5263] I will go through the tech archive carefully as suggested. As mentioned above the leaking which was more like weeping at the glowplug thread stopped after I could properly tighten it up - I will investigate this further to see what I find - the dye penetration kit looks interesting. I have been tyring to avoid britpart parts since I purchased the vehicle - they dont seem to last long and quality seems low generally. Thanks for all the advice - I have found that I do keep referring to this site quite often and usually find what I need after a search hence the low number of posts.

Hi all , aplogies for late reply! I took the head off again as i wasnt happy - checked again for warp and couldnt insert a 0.04mm thickness guage at any point. took it to an engineer who looked at it and showed that it was slightly warped and said he will skim. NO:1 brass slide tappet was dented slightly - so I will replace that - god knows how I missed that! (novice ) I put injector cleaner in the new fuel filter when I serviced it after the head gasket change! improved the starting slightly! I do intend to strip the injectors and get them checked - id say they are about due. changed the battery - instant improvement in starting and have got a new starter motor that im going to fit while the head is off to rule out these. When I took off the new gasket (mulltilayered metal type) I noticed that the torque had lessened so Im geussing that the head bolts need re-torquing after running temperatures have been reached! Q? - is it ok to reuse this new gasket since it is not damaged in any way? Re: lift pump - when I loosen any of the pipework it flows well when pumped. I cleaned out the slot for the glow plugs a bit more thoroughly and put in my old beru spares and that solved the leak there. there was a lot of hardened carbon built up that took some time removing and did create resistence while screwing in the No:1 glow plug. What is a good solvent for carbon build up? I cant think why I got a bent (No:1) pushrod! I had not checked/adjusted my tappets in the approx two and half years I have owned the vehicle! I had the timing done when I got the vehicle. When I get the head back this week I am going to check the timing. I think that as Team Idris has said the timing may be out slightly - enough to make it a poor starter and combination with poorly adjusted tappets maybe whacked the pushrod ?? I will have to brush up on the timing procedure - seen it done but not done it myself before. Any preferences/recomendations on which 200tdi timing kit is best to get? Thanks all

Just to add, I checked the gasket that came off. It has gone at no1 cyclinder on the left hand side. I spoke to a mechanic about the poor starting. After ruling out battery and starter motor, the only remaining possibility would be wear on one of the tensioners in the timing. That could put the timing out very slightly, enough to make it difficult to start and smoke slightly. If it were the rings then blue smoke would be constant.

Hi all, I have a defender 200tdi with original engine. c 190K Got some blue smoke then lots of white smoke close to home. When I pulled the head off the No:1 glow plug took about half an hour to remove. It was stuck pretty well in there with black carbon depositson teh sides. No:1 piston was soaked in water too so assumed gasket failure near to that piston. So replaced the gasket as per the instructions from the tech section hereand checked the head for distortion there seemed to be none as it did not overheat so cleaned it up, lapped the valves replaced the caps & the valve retainers and the valve stem seals and reset the tappets. No:1 pushrod was also very slightly bent so that was replaced too. Reconnected all the pipework and pumped the diesel till it reached the spill rail. Tried starting it up but was very difficult but eventually it started - water was dripping from the exhaust for a while and grey smoke but not too bad. I took it for a short run to clear whatever carp might still be in the exhaust system and after it warmed up - no more smoke at all while running in high or low revs in any gear. Today I tried starting it up and had to hand pump the diesel through again to get it to start. It eventually reluctantly started and was smokey - grey smoke. so went for a longer run and the smoke cleared once it warmed up. I have noticed that the No1 glow plug is leaking what looks like watery oil near its thread and i thin the water level had dropped since yesterday but thought it might just be settling after the run so i will double check that tomorrow after I refill. I am also checking the fuel pipes for leaks. Logically I am assuming that the head gasket is good since it reaches temperature at which point the exhaust smoking ceases completely! If this were not the case then it would smoke even after running temperature was reached. I would like to know whether the water jacket or oil ways in the cyl head pass near the glow plug and would I be right in assuming that I do in fact have a cracked head in an unusual place ( i did visually check!) Sorry about this being a long post ! any advice would be gratefully received - thanks

Thanks for your reply neil, Yes Ive just been round the lights again checking the earths and removing the bulbs to see what effect it has while the engine is off. When I got to the rear offside indicator - removing the bulb resolves the problem. Tried cleaning the earth strip but its not a good connection and badly corroded so I guess thats the problem light. Weather not helping atm

Hi all, Just took my 1991 defender 110 for MOT and expected it to fail but not on the things that it failed on. although a smokey 200tdi (187K on odo) it went through at 0.1 and 1.5 - I had turned the smoke screw back though Whay it failed on was the hazards when engaged cause the main headlights to flash on and off and the other lights to flicker. Im checking and cleaning all the earths first to make sure that all connections are good. so far no joy ! any other suggestions would be great - thanks

Hi all - I just took my defender 110 for its MOT and pleased to say it passed and had only 1 advisory of brake pedal travel which is easy enough to sort out for most - but for me will take at least 3 full days lol. anyway - the reason for the post is the emissions test results. The vehicle is a 200 tdi. - The exhaust downpipe was missing the bracket that fixes to the engine so I made one from 3mm steel in the vice with a hammer and drill. once that was done the collar that affixes the downpipe stopped falling down off of the manifold which was periodically dropping and fumigating me in the cab. I also replaced the back box that had rotted away to nothing with a new section. smoke reading 0.40 m -1 zero drift 0.00 m-1 average 0.40 m-1 MOT test result fast pass = 0.40 m-1 Considering the recent work to the exhaust system the results look unusually low! not that im complaining of course! just curious since wiffys 2002 1.8 sdi diesel polo got a reading of 0.96 m-1 last year.

When I got my 110 last year it had a 2" lift HD springs and suspension which Was too high and too hard not to mention that the rear propshaft made strange noises, the steering was lumpy and the radius arms had not been uprated, nor the trailing arms - so i bought britpart (from paddocks) being on a budget - standard springs for a 91 defender 110 and theyve been fine so far. The front are progressive so they give a comfortable ride and from what I can tell on other forums these suspension units present no problem apart from the lacking kudos attributed to other makes. ill see how many years they last though before I make any firm judgment but so far theyre OK. Not that I wouldnt prefer the best of the best of the best

Hi, thanks for the info! I had tried all the loose connections with a set of crocodile clipped leads to the pump to no avail but found have it all now very well hidden where you stated! so thanks again for you directio. regards Paul

Hi all, ive been browsing here for some time trying to soak up some familiarilty with my purchase of about 10 months which is a 1991 defender 110, with a 200tdi at approx 180K. I journey up from bournemouth to leicestershire during which time the powersteering pump bearings died and the screen wipers slowed to a snails pace and the washpump stopped working altogether. I bought a replacement screen-wash pump ( the old pump had one spade connector missing) and that has a newer fitting than the older spade connectors - they are narrow spades type almost pin like! The wire to the screenwash pump has always been missing (lost on the journey up here) so i have no idea where it should connect. As far as I can tell its a black and green wired connection black being the earth and the green being the direct connection to the wiper stalk. Could anyone enlighten me as to where I might find the correct connection in teh engine bay as im at a loss so far and searches are not helping me. thanks Paul