FATBAZIL

Much appreciated again Gents. Back on the road with a lighter wallet and some experience to reflect upon.

Gents. Thanks for taking the time to reply. I'm fortunate in that I have managed to get my hands on another diff which I'm hoping will be OK. All being well this will save some time and money! I have learned a very valuable lesson! Cheers. Mike

Am I going completely mad!!! Landrover differential problem. I am the proud owner of an elderly (1973) 88 Series three. I have owned it for about 10 years. It’s a bit of a marmite relationship. I like it but my wife and neighbours hate it! The problem I’m currently dealing with relates to the rear diff. It was leaking oil very badly from input bearing oil seal and throwing it around the underside of the body and exhaust. I obtained an oil seal and started on my mission to cure this particular element of incontinence. The job was probably going to take an hour or so-what could possibly go wrong! In no time at all a ham fisted, short sighted Liverpudian moron managed to destroy the bearing behind the oil seal! Everything got removed in small bits! A prompt look on Ebay revealed that a bearing could be supplied for about £15.00 so not the end of the world. The bearing was duly obtained (part number confirmed as (FRC4586). This won’t take long to get it all back together me thinks! Au contrare! The bearing slid neatly down the shaft into the diff but appears to be too wide (Landy Porn!) in that there isn’t sufficient room to get the oil seal in place (size matters!). I thought I may be going mad but as the old bearing was in bits it had been discarded hence I couldn’t make any comparisons. By chance I still had the internal sleeve of the old bearing (sorry not explaining this very well) which is the inner part of the bearing that slides over the input shaft. By comparing this with the new bearing it does appear that the old one is 4-5 mm shorter than the replacement bearing. (This is the same distance by which the oil seal protrudes) I cant find any information which shows the bearing being any different on S2 or S3 or classic range rovers! I’m a bit stuck. Any ideas? Suggestions? Or just general sarcasm and humour appreciated. Cheers

Quickest response ever. Thanks a lot Todd. Anything I need to be aware re swap? Looking at the books looks fairly straight fwd.

I owned a series three some time ago which had rangie diffs fitted. I have another truck now and want the same performance. I have located a pair of ten spline diffs from a 1990 rangie. Are these suitable? Thanks in anticipation. Cheers Mike

235/85 Insa Turbos fitted to a 300 tdi Disco. Whats the correct tyre pressure pse? Thanks.

Gota second hand alternator of a 2.5 Defender for £15.00 plus post and pkg if any good.

Thanks for the replies. Looks very much as if its a series one. Many thanks guys. Mike

Can anyone assist in ID this gearbox. I was told it was a 2a but the bellhousing holes dont align with the studs. Could it be a series one? Its got a dipstick on the main box and the word Marshall in raised print on transfer box. Thx Mike

What the fiddly bit consist of? Anythng I might need some parts for? Thx

I have the chance of buying a factory recond gearbox for a 2a. Its been sitting in a garage for almost 30 yrs! I know that the cluch mechanism is different and that the 2a has no synchro on 1st and 2nd gears. I understand the 2a boxes are better engineered than the series 3. My question is-Can I swap the bellhousing and clutch release mechanisms from the 3 to the 2a gearboxes? Everything looks OK but just wanted to check first. Cheers Mike

I have the chance of buying a factory recond gearbox for a 2a. Its been sitting in a garage for almost 30 yrs! I know that the cluch mechanism is different and that the 2a has no synchro on 1st and 2nd gears. I understand the 2a boxes are better engineered than the series 3. My question is-Can I swap the bellhousing and clutch release mechanisms from the 3 to the 2a gearboxes? Everything looks OK but just wanted to check first. Cheers Mike

I have the chance of buying a factory recond gearbox for a 2a. Its been sitting in a garage for almost 30 yrs! I know that the cluch mechanism is different and that the 2a has no synchro on 1st and 2nd gears. I understand the 2a boxes are better engineered than the series 3. My question is-Can I swap the bellhousing and clutch release mechanisms from the 3 to the 2a gearboxes? Everything looks OK but just wanted to check first. Cheers Mike

I have the chance of buying a factory recond gearbox for a 2a. Its been sitting in a garage for almost 30 yrs! I know that the cluch mechanism is different and that the 2a has no synchro on 1st and 2nd gears. I understand the 2a boxes are better engineered than the series 3. My question is-Can I swap the bellhousing and clutch release mechanisms from the 3 to the 2a gearboxes? Everything looks OK but just wanted to check first. Cheers Mike

Yep, looks like it just a rubber ring. Sits behind the pulley. Pulls out easy enough. M

I changed my belt following the guidane from les. Spot on! I would add however to get hold of a decent puller to take the the crankshaft pulley off. Also, the fuel pump seal will possily leak when tension from the belt is releived. (happend twice now). its easy to replace and available from Delphi. (cost about 7 quid!) i marked all the pulley positions, swapped the belts, tightened it all up and turned engine thru 180 before checking tension and then rechecking all of the marks. All ok! Most difficult job was removing crankshaft pulley. HTH. Mike

Good thread! Some good pointers to start me off with my rebuild. Cheers for now. M

If anyone has a good gearbox for sale..........at a good price as well:) Let me know.

Having successfully sorted out the seized clutch (previous posting) and driven my motor around for a couple of 100 miles or so I have now lost reverse gear! On trying to engage reverse it engages momentarily then crunches and disengages. It will move the truck 2 feet or so and thats it. I picked up a second hand box and fitted it only to find that its very noisy above 30 mph and the syncros on 3 and 4th or pretty bad and no 4 wheel drive in high range. But it will engage reverse!! Here is my questions folks- Is it practical to strip a gearbox DIY? Looks simples in the Haynes book! Where can I get the parts? What should I look for in respect of the reverse gear problem? Advice, guidance, sarcasm and on line laughter and P taking accepted and appreciated:) Cheers Mike

OK I give up. It was raining very hard! Peeing it down in fact!

Got no idea where 'Mildly miffed down' came from! Should read 'Mildly miffed it down!'

I finally had some spare time and a couple of days of decent weather. I pulled out the gearbox and stripped the clutch apart. I found that the friction plate was well and truly bonded to the flywheel with rust! I recall that when fitting the engine it Mildly miffed down at one point and the engine got wet. Rainwater must have got onto the clutch and as it stood for nearly two months the inevetiable happened. Whilst the gearbox was out I changed a couple of seals and fixed the handbrake and painted some of the chassis with waxoil. Took her out for a test drive yesterday and all seems well. Thanks for the advice all. Cheers Mike