Gazzar

Any joy?

Don't worry, I knew what you meant!

Center drill! Perfect! A solid centre punch sort of thing for a lathe. I think I'll get one of those. Thank you.

And another: What tool holder should I order to fit these inserts? Are there Chinese versions at quarter the price, but 2/3rds the quality? When I was cutting the CV axles I held the other end in a center. But the piece was turning, the center wasn't. I kept it lubricated, but I'd there a better way?

More questions: How do I use the lathe to drill a hole in a bar? I tried with a drill bit and found it difficult to center the bit.

It spins

I think the rewire, and new trip did the trick. It's running at full speed. 1130, if the motor plate isn't lying. I must buy a tacho gun. I think it's the first in rush that does it. If I run the machine in neutral first I should be fine. I'll think about the drum switch in a bit. I need to scribble some writing diagrams to get my head around it.

I've used these. It's a standard safety razer blade. But the angle is such that the blade only slices the gasket. It works, until the notches wear and you find you have to hold the blade in place.

Why? I agree with you, and if they added reliability and value for money to the mix, it would be a company saviour. But, if their target market doesn't value the ultimate off-road ability (and it doesn't), why would they bother? Most UK supplied 4x4 utilities are sold on looks, BIK, branding and payload. That's what the designers and engineers are told to target, "oh, and make it reasonable off-road, whilst you are at it". It's not the way I'd do it, but I've not turned an ailing sub brand into a fairly successful car company, so I'm not the best person to ask.

Yes, a new drum switch is one option. The challenge is connecting this to the direction lever on the main saddle; this lathe has a lever at the saddle that operates the drum switch at the motor. Which is why I think I've to reconfigure the original drum switch, if I can.

Ah. No. I'm wrong. It's a capacitor start capacitor run motor. This doesn't mean soft start. Right. Two parts to this problem. 1) how do I get the motor to run backwards without having to do those little bus bars. 2) how do I reconfigure the drum switch to standard. I think that if I solve 2, then 1 will follow as then the drum switch becomes the little bars. Fun! For another day.

Better pictures. I need help with this, I think.

I think my drum switch (that's what the forward/reverse switch is called), is not standard. I think I'll do some playing with it, as I see that they CAN be configured for what I want.

But it does have a start capacitor, which should stop the in-rush surge!

The motor, has a six terminal block, with two hard links turning it into 4 terminals. The advice I've seen suggests remove the links, and have two pairs of L&N coming from the direction switch. But I don't think my direction switch gives me that. It just reverses polarity. I think.