CaptainBlue

Any ideas why my alarm kept on going for more than 30 minutes and not as I read 4.5 minutes which seems to be standard ? It only stopped when i opened the bonnet. Is there something that needs adjusting ? Can you disconnect the alarm entirely ?

In trouble again. Changed the fob batteries and all was OK, had a worrying moment on Sunday when the doors never unlocked, fob working OK – red light flashing, tried again and doors opened. Then on Monday stuck in a car park at waitrose, doors never unlocked. Fob working. Got into the car with the key and the engine is disabled. Then the alarm goes off and keeps going. After 30 mins I decided to try and get the battery cable off, which I didn’t think would work but when I opened the bonnet the alarm stopped. Should the alarm be going off for that long ? The EKA code never worked, dead as a dodo, no beeps are flashing lights. So I’m guessing the lock switch may be faulty. Also, do you reckon the reason why the doors are not unlocking is that the RF receiver is faulty ?

I'm trying to find where I can buy these trim studs,4 of them that slide into the backside of the inner trim - the trim that also holds the lamp/light which illumintes when the tailgate is open. Mine are light grey in colour and have worn out so they won't push in to the tailgate and hold the trim in place. Thanks.

Series 3 2.25 petrol. I swapped my carburettor over two years ago for a new one from Paddocks. Set the mixture in accordance with the standard method and have a good idle speed. Thing is the guy at the MOT stattion says the Co2 is next to nothing. I've turned the mixture screw out hoping to increase the mixture but it's had no effect. The engine is running OK on idle, although maybe the mixture is too weak because it does seem to stutter and strain a bit when 'cruising'. As soon as I put my foot down a bit it stops. So any ideas about increasing the mixture ? Are you supposed to turn the mixture screw out to increase the mixture ? Thanks, Mark

Hi Snagger, Any idea who stocks the thicker of the 2 gaskets i.e the corkish one ? Thanks, Mark

Engine oil sump that is.

Thanks Snagger, will do. I used the blue stuff on the sump and managed to make a right mess.

Thanks guys, I'll get a gasket together and use some of that nice blue silicon stuff. I'm not surprised it should be liberally applied with a Land Rover, however I thought it was to be used sparingly. Generally, when using silicon together with a gasket, should you apply the silicon evenly then line up the sump and nuts and bolts and wait a short while for the silicon to go off before tightening up ? Todd, I was in Kalmar last week for a day. Never saw your motor this time like I did last. /Mark

Just wondering whether there’s a gasket between the transfer box sump and sump plate. Can’t seem to locate a part or part number.

Thanks for your replies mates. I've not heard any noise from the air pump so don't know if it's had it. I'm learning fast. Not that worried about replacing the air compressor, seems easy enough, but the more I read the more I believe it might be a leak. On the other hand I've had periods when the suspension has stayed up or just the front has sunk down and/or the rear and with a bit of coaxing it's come up. I will check the lines for wear or melting. Either way it's not 100% so it will have to be a looked at by the garage.

It happened to me as well. My range rover HSE 1999 is now stuck on the bump stops. When I parked up last time, I thought the front end sunk down rather sharpish. Previously, I had success leaving the driver's door open for 5-10 mins then closing door and the car rose up. Not now though. The air compressor is too hot to touch. The 4x4 garage had already checked the system for leaks but all was OK. I was just told the air compressor was a bit lazy. Any thought's on this guys ? Is the air compressor toast ? Is it an easy job to replace it and any safety aspects I should think of ? How long do you reckon the job would take ? I haven't got any fault code show up on the dash, however would you have to check for any fault codes and get them cleared first ? Thanks.

Then I'll give the Office of Fair Trading a call.

Hi Old Hand, Yes, good old GBP 1200 of them. To be honest I didn't know what the job entailed. Anyway, I got no way of doing it myself. I did speak to the bloke today for a breakdown of the cost. Even being a novice I was taken aback when he said the whole job would take 20 hours at 50 quid an hour. I did see someone mentioned the repair manual states about 8hrs for the job. I did mention that, so anyway he knows that I know. They do seem nice people - which I'm learning fast does not mean much - and they're close to home. So I'll see what the bill says.

Hej Roverbo, Yeah I frequently visit the swedish LRC site, was an old member but still read the posts. I live in Sweden but got the range rover based in England. I don't think I'm being overcharged but will get a breakdown of the bill. Think they said they will send the block or cylinder or something away for skimming ?

New owner of a 10 yr old car and the head gasket has gone. I must have been losing coolant although I've not noticed any leaks. Has it all gone through the exhaust ? The engine oil looks OK. What is a blown head gasket, is it due to old age or too much pressure ? I hadn't been experiencing any overheating problems apart from the fact that I must have been getting low on coolant because I saw the needle go into the red it and started to boil over. The local 4x4 garage done a test for Co2 in the radiator coolant and it was positive, more than so, the bloke said the gasket had 'really gone'. I've been quoted £1200 is that reasonable ? Think I saw in another post that the job is about 8 hrs labour.

In the workshop manual, it mentions the method of disconnecting the BBUS, Battery Backed-up Sounder by removing the connection within 17 secs of turning the ignition on then off. Where is the connector ? I thought this was the negative battery terminal. Range Rover 1999 HSE.

Thanks mate. You've set my mind at rest.

Should the battery go flat, can you still open the driver's door with the key ? That is to say without the EKA code ? The range rover is a 1999 HSE.

Will check the chassi number as well. I will never learn.

Thanks for your reply mate. It looks suspicious. The only mot I got with the car was the last one. Luckily you can check the history. I have only one key fob and that works OK. I don't have the EKA because the registration docs come 2 days ago. I'm going to try and get the EKA from Land Rover. I'm away from home for a few weeks at a time but I'll check the engine no. against the registration as soon as I can. That will tell me if the engine has been replaced and it's been registered. It's hard to understand why someone in may 2008 at 109,929 gets a pass on the MOT and less than 3 months later puts the car in for a new MOT with a pass, at a different mot centre, but showing 84,956. The difference in money for selling a 110k car compared to a 85k can't be much, seems hardly worth the bother. I hope the EKA works or I'm in trouble.

Just bought a Range Rover HSE 1999. Went on line to check the MOT history and on one MOT from 2008 the mileage reads 109,929 and on the next MOT 3 months afte the mileage reads less, 84,956. Does the odometer reading follow the engine ? Seems as if the engine has been changed, what do you think ?

Mate, you've hit the nail on the head Someone has fused my headlights, that's why the fuse and holder is getting hot. I thought it was a fault somewhere with the lights wiring. I've got the wiring diagrams and sure I've seen that the lights are permanently wired in to the live feed from the battery. Just didn't think it would make the fuse hot

So anyone got a photo of their fuse box with the wires attached ?

I am now paying the price for going for a cheap outfit restoring my series III petrol. They got the wiring all wrong. Suffered from overheating fuses and so on, I decided to try and put it right according to the 'book'. Something baffled me from the start and I wonder if you have any ideas. I've find the live feed, which i think should be brown. Mine is red and brown (the loom would have been extended from the rh drive conversion to lh drive). This live feed goes on T1 with a purple wire for the headlamp flash on T2. Looking a the wiring diagram there should be one brown wire from T1 to the Sockets and one brown wire to the ignition switch. When I put the first brown on T1 it sparked and started to overheat. Same thing with the 2nd brown wire. After this the headlamp flash does not work although there is still live feed going through the fuse to T2. After finding a white wire pesumably from the ignition and attaching it to T7, the brown wires attached to T1 don't spark and overheat anymore. What have I done or haven't done Mark

Hi Todd and everyone else, I was originally inclined to do as Todd suggested and just swap them over to see if there was any difference. Mate of mine has all the tools and what nots at his work the local power station. I've read with amazement on forums that landys with a lean have not been cured by fitting new springs. As for brands, British Springs name pops up a lot on the forums so contacted them might be the next step. Any comments on fitting the stiffer of the front springs on both sides i.e the one I have now on the passenger side ?