CaptainBlue

I’m driving a Series 3, 1975 petrol swb that was originally a RHD vehicle but converted to LHD. The leaf springs were not swapped over and I understand that the right hand side springs are different to the left hand side ones to compensate for weight etc. The landy has the usual lean, in my case on the front left hand side/driver’s side. The leaf springs don’t look like being knackered, but to cure the lean, I might just as well get new ones or should I just swap them over to see if the lean disappears ? I know parabolics are an option and they are not entirely ruled it but they’re more expensive. What are the leaf springs from Paddocks like, any good ? They are not Britpart are they ? Someone recommended you could renew both the left and right hand side with the ‘stiffer’ springs, is that an option or should I stick to the original set-up with weaker spring on passenger side ? Lastly, if I just swap the springs over, what bits would I need just in case, like bushes nuts and bolts ?

OK, will sort it all out tomorrow. When I'm confident that I've found TDC and made a mark on the front of the engine lining up with the mark on the pulley, looking at the engine head on, which side of the mark is towards 3 degrees and which side 6 degrees ? Thanks. /Mark

Righto, thanks for that I'll give it a go.

I have an engine from a lightweight (Series III petrol 2286cc 3-bearing) engine no. 95103254E fitted in my standard series 3 SWB 1976. I don’t have any pointer on the engine front, I do have a mark on the pulley. I can’t see that I have any plate on the flywheel to check the timing like there was an earlier diesel engines. How do I check the timing on this engine ?

Right, solved it ! LH rear brake shoe spring was not attached properly. It was attached to both shoes. The trailing shoe is now free and when released from the spring the wheel cylinder pushed it out a fair bit. So my troubles was down to poorly adjusted shoes.

Right thanks, never knew the numbers were cast into the drum.

How can you determine when the brake drum needs changing ? Do you measure the thickness and do you need to change all four and brake shoes at the same time. ? Thanks.

Thanks Jimfoo. I got a reading of 17. So I guess it passes. Was wondering if I had a leak via the inlet manifold.

Definitely have to clamp off rear and front brakes to see if there is any difference. Looks also like I need to bleed all the brakes individually clamping the wheel cylinders with G clamps, compressing them and hopefully limiting the space for trapped air. You got no idea what the reading on a vacuum gauge should be from the manifold ?

I've read all I can get my hands about Series 3 braking problems and one of the most common problems is excessive pedal travel and having to pump the pedal a few times in order to get good / fair braking. I've got a new set up, brake servo, master cylinder now a dual line system. Does anyone know what sort of vacuum reading I should be getting from the pipe attaching to the brake servo ? i.e the manifold reading. I'm only wondering because if you have to pump the pedal a few times to get good pressure, does this mean you are not getting a decent servo assist by braking just once ? The pedal never hits the floor because it hits the front of the pedal box first. Looking at the old servo, seems there is about 3" of movement before you sort of bottom out. All my brake shoes are adjusted spot on. No leaks in the system. I will clamp off front and rear brakes and test the pedal I will also adjust and lock up the brake shoes and feel the pedal, if hard, I've read there is no air in the system. What do you think ? Do you have any vacuum readings to the servo ??