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highlandmist

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Posts posted by highlandmist

  1. Hi,

    Well I would take a gues that the bolt has rusted itself into the outrigger/bulkhead, that's probably why you can't turn the bolt, maybe?

    :rofl:

    Yes I had managed to work that bit out.

    The bolt passes all the way along to where my side steps are mounted. I cut this head off with the grinder and managed to pull the outrigger off.

    I was just worried that the tubing was threaded inside to accomodate two bolts, but its one big bolt.

  2. Iam nowready to replace the outrigger on the Defender 90. I am a wee bit confused as to how it is bolted into place. I tried undoing the obvious bolt which disintegrated my 3/4" socket pretty sharpish, even after the plus gas treatment.

    I then looked at what I could attack with the grinder and saw this set up.

    The right had side is the old outrigger, middle is body mounting and left is my side step. I'm not sure what to go for.

    IMG_20130208_095516.jpg

    Its like a tube which runs through the body mounting all the way to where my side step attaches

  3. I think you need to start with a wire brush and/or grinder to see how much chassis you have left under the rust. You will have a better idea yourself then if its repairable.

    You can then think about phosphoric acid, galvafroid or the above Hammerite rustbeater.

    I have just spotted this stuff which claims to be the dogs doodaa's.

  4. Just got some bad news from Charley the welder who was going to fit the new outrigger, he doesn't have a workshop and says its too big a job to do outside.

    He reckons that everything above will have to come off. I didn't realise this and thought you might be able to suspend the body and do the job ?

    What exactly is involved in cutting off and replacing the N/S bulkhead outrigger.

    Looks like I'm going down to Inverness on Tuesday to try a 4x4 repair garage !

  5. If you have loosened the swivel pin bolts then the whole assay will sag under it's own weight and knacker you swivel seals.

    When undoing the swivel pin bolts support the hub with a jack, when you have the brake hose bracket out tighen the swivel pin bolts back up to support the hub while you carry on.

    Yes, as soon as the oil started coming out I realised I should have supported it.

    Got them all done and put 'one shot' back in. I used a bottle jack to loosen them off, then brute force.

    IMG_20130115_102039.jpg

  6. OK, so there are 3,4 and six bolt PAS boxes. Now what bolts does this refer to. I now have the parts manual from retroanaconda. There's a Gemmer, Adwest, Adwest Heavyweight and Adwest Lightweight. Can anyone use p537-543 to enlighten me ?

    I'm going to get a new drop arm and ball joint to be on the safe side.

  7. While I have the drag link and track rod off to do the TRE's I was going to whip off the whole shebang in order to redo the weeping seals around the swivel housing. The axle end bolts are 12 pointer and appear to be 15mm. I can't even get my 14mm 12 point socket in to check as there's no room in there.

    Do I need to get a 15mm 12 point ring spanner now or is it 9/16 or something ?

    I mught try dropping out the 90 oil and putting in one shot, they only started weeping after I loosened the top swivel pin bolts when I did the brakes and hubs.

  8. I'm looking toward corrosion removal and protection for the Defender v when the weather improves. I have read a few compressor threads here but the price of suggested ones are a wee bit step for me.

    I'm thinking in the order of £200 and want to run some helpful tools and a spray gun for the galvafroid and paint.

    This for example seems to have the requirements for most of the tools but I'm not sure about the spraying side of things:

    http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-hunter-54-air-compressor

  9. I would say the outrigger definitely needs replacing. I see there's a drop arm ball joint kit for the PAS drop arm and I'll get new TRE's although there's left hand thread and RHT shown on the paddock lists.

    Not sure what LR experience the guy has but I'm quite limited in my neck of the woods and he comes recommended by other drivers of inferior vehicles :)

    Just wondering what other areas I could replace to limit the play.

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